Foxy Smith

Alex, it sounds as if you've covered the float angle pretty well so suggests problem is somewhere else. Can you see where the petrol is dripping from if you look down the trumpet with engine running?? In my post above I was not referring to the cold starting device but the chokes and auxilliary venturii. If you look down the trumpet these are what you see immediately in front of the butterfly valve. I have heard/read that if the choke becomes loose (retained by grub screw) you can get uncontrolled leaking/dripping of petrol. The only other thought I had was with regard to accelerator pump, there is a ball valve in that device which if missing could lead to persistant dribble!! See if you can get hold of Des Hammill's How to build and tune Weber & Dellorto Carbs. Its a Speedpro book get it from www.veloce.co.uk

What type of fuel pump are you using? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? Does the fuel feed run to the front pair of carbs first or visa-versa? Have you checked that the chokes are properly seated and fixed.? Edited by - Foxy Smith on 29 Aug 2006 22:11:40

Don't think I would be looking at improving the Audi cooling but more at how could I make the trailer/tyre rack more aerodynamic. After all it looks as if this is the source of the problem esp given you say it's speed related, you're giving the engine more work than it was designed to do.

Disagree with the above. I have 22% rack on '92 chassis, having just done a bump steer measuring session I't looks as if I have to lower the rack. It is absolutely worthwhile doing the measurements as outline in Paul Deslandes Low Flying article, there is a sweet spot and even 1mm off makes a big difference. Edited to add if you want any shims I have a pile made up that it looks as if I won't need now. Edited by - Foxy Smith on 19 Aug 2006 09:48:30

Nope, you want a dirty great oil syringe. Well it will be dirty when you're done.

Cable or hydraulic??

HAmmerite do a "Special metals" primer which will cope with ally but still need a top coat. I think least cost option is get a can of etch primer spray from Halfords or wherever and then stick on your top coat.

I'm with Boss, we've used Altec for years to supply all sorts of exotic plastic/silicon tubing. Good company to deal with.

Arnie, you have Exactweld practically on your doorstep. These chaps are very,very good welders. I don't think they have surface grinding/skimming kit but there is Southeren rebore at Rowfant who also seem to have a good rep.

Ben, is this a Vx with dry sump, we're talking about??

See your post on Chat

Nick, as you say they just push on. A few strategic blobs of silicon sealant can be useful to hold them in place. You want them as far forward on the trumpets as you can get them (i.e. away from the carbs). I used these as a short term measure last year and I have to say they are not impressive. If you are looking to get away from the K&Ns you might be better to invest a little more time and money in a proper sausage type filter with a back plate. These will work better, don't interfere with the way the trumpets work that the sock type filters do. You will have to sort out the backplate holes and may well need to enlarge your bonnet hole.

Mike for a new build underfloor is def the way forward, apparently can even be done upstairs nowadays. The figures quoted for energy returns have been stretched a bit I reckon, average quoted is 3Kw for 1, best I've seen 4 for 1. PS given any more thought to doing some metal work masterclasses?? (

Jono, now you're talking. Shame we don't have gas here in the sticks How about biomass fuel??

Rob it depends where you are, up in Derbyshire I suspect Mike will have to bore straight down but not necessarily. For us we would use a horizontal array of pipes buried between 1-2m on a piece of ground which slopes slightly to the south, perfect for picking up heat. I know Mike has fields around him, these could be used and trenches are a lot cheaper to dig than boreholes.

Mike, I've spent the last few months looking at various "eco-friendly" heating options. The ground source heat pumps which I suspect that you are refering to are very very good. The technology is not new, the Canadians have been using it for years as have the Germans and Scandis. I kept coming back to two problems, 1. recouping cost and 2. figuring out what you do with the heat produced. Underfloor heating makes best use of the relatively low temp water that is produced but obviously disruptive to retro-fit. There are, starting to appear from Italy (I think) some very high efficency radiators that are supposed to work well but they are expensive and very bulky. Last option is the heating units that tend to be used in commercial premises again bulky and expensive to fit, can be used as air con i.e. run system in reverse and dump heat to the ground (instaling a reversible system disqualifies you for Goverment Grant which I think is 20% for domestic) Three phase power, which I assume you have for your workshop is a big bonus to run the bigger pumps more efficently. If you want more info (I have stacks of stuff) drop me a line or give me a call. I would think for your set up if you could do house, workshop and cottages it would work very well indeed. All the best Alan

Surplus to requirements Four Yokohama Slicks 160 (515) 13 used but practically new. One Yoko A032R 185/60 R13 Soft compound new unused. Spherical type expansion tank c/w Caterham mounting bracket. Offers for NTL Edited by - Foxy Smith on 23 Apr 2006 13:52:57 Edited by - Foxy Smith on 23 Apr 2006 13:55:53

Arnie, I have a 20 ton hydraulic press in the workshop although I'm not sure if that will be helpful. Are these bushes on the diff casing or on the chassis?? I'm around Sunday afternoon. Alan

Try here http://www.abacus-furniture.co.uk/1-2.htm or try searching tube ends on Google

Think I used 3.2 X 10mm prob backed up with washer

Yes I had my surround powdercoated last year. It's an aluminium alloy. Easy to dismantle but can be a bit of a fiddle getting all back together. Replace the rubber and be prepared to use lots of silicon lube and ratchet straps to compress the surrounds back onto the glass. The aluminium has to/should be treated before coating but your powdercoater will sort this out.

You can set rivnuts without the tool using the appropriate boltto fit the rivnut, a couple of washers to act as a thrust bearing and another plain nut to run down the bolt and compress the rivnut. You'll need 2 spanners, one to hold the bolt and attached rivnut steady and another to spin the plain nut down and compress the rivnut. I actually prefer doing this now over the tool because I feel I get better control over the compression of the rivnut and don't tend to get any spinning failures.

Guy given the position of the horns and the corrosion they're likely to suffer I'd bet the problem was there. I'd start at the horns and pull off connections till the problem stops. That will confirm the location of the short.

Guy, it was the core, i did look with a view to a repair as I'm handy with the old soldering iron but it wasn't fixable. Mrs S is also partial to a bit of warmth in the car as well but there have been no complaints. What I did do which has made quite a difference to footwell temperatures was to build a tight fitting shroug around the radiator. Now there is no air gap between the rad and the nose cone, all the air goes thru the rad and our feet are relatively toasty in the winter and festering and sweaty in the summer but at least the engine's happy.

Guy, I have a '92 HPC also. As you have done, found coolant seeping into the passenger footwell. Unfortunately this was on the eve of our departure on the 2004 Bordeaux Blat. I pulled the heater out and short circuited the feed and return pipes with some 22mm copper pipe and a couple of hose clamps, blanked off the holes with some ally sheet and it's never gone back, don't miss it at all and it leaves a lovely space for the jack and tools and spare parts when touring.