krisfl

These extra connections in the O/S wheel arch mentioned above, they're not the Sub loom connections for a high level brake light are they? Or is there another set in there somewhere?

Whats the consensus, Convex or flat mirrors to use with these?

I have a S which I added adjustable collars and a rear anti roll bar before getting the car properly set up and corner weighted. The handling and ride was a night and day difference after the set up. The car breaths with the road and eats corners feeling very secure even in the wet. On track it's very good too. my understanding is that dampers and spring rates are the same between R&S. An S car properly set up will be great on road and a few track days a year. I have lowered floors and needed to raise the heights a little to stop catching the seat bolts on speed humps and the like. The adjustable suspension allowed this as part of the set up... so we'll worth it all round.

I have some lights which are similar to CC lights & cafe racer bought via club member Andy Hobbs. I have to say they're excellent and just £150. Here are some pics: dipped high garage door vs Osram Night Breaker in the standard lens DRL (which also changes to an indicator) See indicator DRL Here

Hi Derek. Fantastic is the short answer. In slightly longer form: Stuart and the PP team are fantastic. Experienced, lovely to deal with and great service. Stuart pulled out the stops to get my car ready and another club members ready in time for the F&T run. So my first real drives were with the 190 other sevens over 600 miles through Wales bookended by motorway schleps. So probably enough miles to answer... My car was in 270 trim. So a 1.6 Ti-VCT sigma with 135bhp and the standard flywheel + CAT. I now have the F160 kit along with PP's ultralight flywheel and clutch fitted. The car is now putting out 163.8Bhp and 135.3(Lbs Ft not Nm!) of torque from just 3300rpm all the way to 7,500rpm. A rev limit which it rips up to and firmly headbutts! F160 is new cams, new induction kit, uprated valve springs, new injectors, oil catch can, tensioners, belts and a few other bits and bobs, along with a full re-map and set up on the rolling road. I also had a twin oil temp and pressure gauge and wrapped manifolds added, and a de-cat pipe. Quite a different beast to the Caterham Cars 310 upgrade. The difference is incredible. The car now rev's like a motorbike, with a VERY responsive throttle. The flywheel and clutch assembly has removed 7kg of rotating mass over my standard Ford number I had. And that alone has bought the car ripping into life. Then the extra torque and power along with the extra response means the car has a new feral character and will rip off up the road in a way the standard 270/310 can only dream of with a burst of induction roar and motorbike style revs. It on familiar roads it feels significantly quicker EVERYWHERE including deceleration, due to the flywheel and MUCH better engine breaking and the car feels much more "up on its toes" in general. Equally though it will idle smoothly, cold start with a single button press and slouch around at 30mph in 4th without issue. If there is any compromise at all over the standard car, its the clutch. It's a competition clutch and its initially a fair bit heavier in action. It's taken me a few hundred miles to properly tune into, partly weight of action and partly due to the rapid flaring of revs. But I'm now pulling away easily and "stop starting" through villages again without really thinking about it. But rev matching and heel and toe changes are bliss and MUCH easier to execute smoothly than the standard car. So really, on balance, given what these cars are all about, its spot on... For me, its been worth every penny. I love smaller capacity engines with a revvy character - I think it suits the 7 very well. And with PP of course, there is a easy upgrade path all the way to over 200bhp should I ever want it. And all on an engine which is 20kg lighter than a Duratech... If you have a Sigma and an upgrade itch, look no further Kris

Have you found GP Sevens? They're near you and have a range of SVs in stock. They're great guys and will help you find the right car. They'll fit lowered floors or any other mods you may want too. GP Sevens SV stock there is a nice looking 1.6 fixed cam sigma (150bhp) here at the mo for £18995 so around your budget. Have a look lowered floors will cost an extra £800 for Both driver and passenger fitted by them... good luck!

There is a guide from Avon put together for the club in the guides section covering tyre pressures. It makes similar recommendations as this thread but worth a read... Avon Tyre Guide

I'm Woking in Surrey and nip round to GP Sevens in Sevenoaks. They have a sofa and WiFi and can do a while you wait service and MOT. I take my laptop do a spot of work, drink Tea, look at the collection of 7's there... A few weeks back I rolled in at 08:50 and was on the road home again by 12:30 MOT & service all done, and a couple hours of work ticked off... If that doesn't work, they will collect and deliver your seven in a covered trailer...

And collection can't come soon enough!

well done Sir. Keep up the top work.

Great to meet you and chat today Phill (I hope I remembered that correctly!) The 69 S3 sounds like a good spot. I did see the Red 270 leave but didn't manage to say Hi... there was a lovely 68 Mini Cooper S parked up next to me by the time I got my sarnie... the sun bought us all out ill definitely come down to the pub meet soon. I should be on the F&T run too all being well with the mods. look forward to meeting again! Kris

Aah yes... open to offers around £100

Standard Roll bar from a 2016 S3, metric chassis for sale. Good condition. Some light marks from the hoods Collection only, Located near Woking in Surrey. Offers around £100

Hi Geoff. I can believe all the strength comes from the chunky bolts which thread in above the shocks, As having looked at 3 other sevens with the FIA bar fitted only the head of the bolt is touching the plate and not by much. All 3 were all off in different directions. They're not done up that tight either, 20nm ... but this slightly misses the point for me - they should be closer to lining up in this day and age!! CC have "forwarded my photo to the bar makers for comment" Teflon shoulders... a Putin style invasion of Dartford may be needed!

Yup rapidly coming to the same conclusion. I think you gents are, sadly, spot on. I just spoke to CC. They weren't terribly interested, though asked for me to email a photo, which I've done. However I've had several people now, including a seven specialist tell me that any replacement bar will be the same, but also not to worry about the top bolt too much. Its just there to fill the hole it seems. Or in my case to attach the half hood straps! The integrity and extra strength in the mount comes from the underside bolts, above the shocks. The specialist said its OK to file/dremel so long as the 4 main bolts are OK. But to try grunt again first. So I'll give brut force another go before firing up the angry tools... Thanks all. I'll share any updates from CC. But not expecting much.

Hi Geoff. Yes Straps/strops did help. For this bolt though, the whole bar needs to rotate clockwise about 2mm. Which even with no other bolts in doesn't seem to want to go... It could be me of course! but I like to think I can cope with tasks which are one spanner difficulty on the Haynes manual scale!

Jonathan, yes. The straps helped me to get the main bolts above the shocks in, and in the end, easily threaded running free with just fingers so all good there. And yes I"ve also left the rear legs free, as well as trying to loosely locate with screw drivers. I"ve also tried having a mate lift the whole bar with the main bolts wound in a few turns. But I think that wing plate is just welded on on the wonk. Even If I start that side, and with that bolt, I can't get it to align with the hole...

Thanks. Noted on the dremel! The bolts are wound in a little more at the mo. But only wound in with fingers to see where things settle. Easy to have another go. I have tried unwinding a little to give more waggle room and lifting, but so far not enough to get the bolt in without risk of trashing the thread. And I can wind the bolts in smoothly with finger tips. It's just this last little sod!

Bent frame??? I hope not. The old bar drops back in perfectly. ill call CC Parts this am and see... it's hardly the most technical job in the world, so can't see how I could have lined up the other 5 bolts in such a way that this last one is this far off?

Evening. I'm failing to fit a new FIA/Track day roll bar (cross type) to a 2014/15 S3 metric chassis. I had the car jacked, shocks off and the standard bar off in about 30mins including tea slurps... 9hrs later... the F'ing IA bar is still not bolted home. I"ve had all the usual fun described on other threads with straps, helping hands and much swearing. I"ve eventually got the 4 main bolts in finger tight as well as the 5th top 13mm bolt which goes through those wing things. But the last bolt isn't going to line up in a month of Sunday's. Have a look at the photo... Should I:- a) Take the Dremel to it... b) Call CC parts and ask for another "Precision Laser cut" bar to be sent c) Try a pearl of wisdom which someone here might have which will magic away my frustration? Ta muchly

Perhaps a Skoda Octavia estate (perhaps even the VRS?) all sorts of engines. Loads of room. Even a PHEV petrol now... Volvo V60 could be worth a look. Plenty coming off PCP The Mazda 6 is a good car though. Be tempted to stick with it. or same again. I worked on the launch a while back!

Thanks Simon. Good to know.

Howdo all. Thinking I might join the club skid pan session at Thurxton this summer and I'm wondering about the likely wear on the tyres. Obviously its a low friction surface, so it wont be like doing donuts on tarmac, but what should I expect? Interested to hear from people who've "panned" their Seven I have a set of old CR500s which are being taken off for some ZZS around MOT time, but perhaps I should keep them and use them on the skid pan? They have good tread but are VERY old (no side wall cracks - yet... )

Yes Johnathan you're right there is one there also. Forgot that. Sorry to misinform

Most (if not all) of the relays on a sigma are passenger side (uk car) next to the fuse box and on a 270, behind the plate cover which the 12v power socket is often mounted. There is a line of 4/5 of them against the bulk head. They're easy to see... The lights relay is generally second one in from one of the ends - but can't remember which end, sorry!