Ian B

Hi Sam and all, I've been sorting out some hard-wiring elements for the Autocom for my SV, and can confirm: 1. I have sourced a 'dished mounting flange' to take a flush fitting socket to be mounted through the rear bulkhead - I'll let you know on here how it goes by the end of the week. (Sam YHM but the pinout of the headset DIN would be useful to know (I have the 5-pin). 2. I have experienced a level problem when using the mobile (Nokia 3510) and part 58 (twin isolating phone/Road Angel lead). I have emailed Autocom but no reply - yet (now copied to you Sam!). Once the phone level is sorted I will sus out the resistor value for the RA to work comfortably (thanks for the warning Myles!). 3. I'm looking at adding PMR radio for car-to-car comms, however I need to get the above working correctly first. When set up this should have a switch (probably on dash near lights) that enables or disables the transmit to the PMR. When enabled the radio will transmit when triggerred by the VOX of the Pro-7 when you (or your passenger) speaks, when disabled only 'private' in-car conversations can occur. If anyone has any info on interfacing cheap PMR's with Autocom, or just experience of using cheap PMRs on the move (ie performance), please let me know, as I don't intend to use them much so can't justify the hundred pounds plus ones. 4. I'm planning on mounting the Pro-7 in the boot in the centre V of the bulkhead, the PMR elsewhere in the boot, the RA is on the tunnel under the dash (with remote antenna in nosecone) and the music player (prob MP3 or radio - that may need antenna) under the dash. Phone will be on flying lead from the tunnel or may sit in a 'map pocket' if I get round to it! I'll try to post some pics when I have something to photograph Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️, but getting better )

The 7 seems to get treated with respect or appreciation rather than the 'envy' that seems to attract keys to expensive saloons. Rob, "I was stationary and he reversed into me" - yeah right! 😬 *tongue* - are you not very busy today then . . . . . ? Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️, but getting better )

OK, I’m trying to understand the Autocom setup but the ‘manual’ isn’t too great! Any help or comments with the following would be gratefully received: 1. Is the difference between ‘Music Input’ and ‘Aux 2’ that any signals fed into Aux 2 will cause the music signal to ‘mute’? 2. If so, and you want to connect a Mobile telephone, Road Angel, and Music, you would need to connect the Mobile and Road Angel via a Y adaptor to the Aux 2 input, leaving the music on its own dedicated input. This means the Mobile and RA will mute the Music. Has anyone done this either with a simple Y adapter or have you used the Autocom part 58 mixing lead with audio isolation. 3. Myles, I gather from your comments that you found an attenuation resistor is needed for the Road Angel. Do you have it connected as above? Is the resistor just in series with the signal or is it wired with another as a potential divider? 4. Anyone know the connections needed to add PMR radio communication as well? I’m assuming the radio connects to the short Grey 5-pin DIN from the PRO. Autocom have a PTT switch designed to mount on a bike handlebar, that has a 3-way toggle and a push button. The 3 positions are 1 – VOX on Pro opens the radio transmitter; 2 – VOX on Pro only operates between driver and passenger; 3 – Press to talk for radio (but I think VOX remains operational between driver and passenger?). However the 5 pin din socket only has 9v, 0v, Mic, Speaker and PTT connections – anyone know what the PTT connection is (i.e. what is the PTT switch contact arrangement and how are they wired to the DIN? I’m going to have to speak to Autocom on Monday anyway (anyone know a good technical person there?) but if I can unravel some of the above first it will help Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️, but getting better ) Edited by - Ian B on 8 Feb 2004 21:18:01

Make sure you push the U-shaped prongs right in (usually a click) and you do have push them quite hard! Then the unit should pull out (with the prongs still in the holes). Or drive to Julian's Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)

Phil/Strangely, the wet noodle retriever might work as it doesn't 'telescope' so if it sticks to something you could probably push it past?? Your 'locations' are blank so can't tell what area you're in? If it's that serious and you want try one I could lend you mine if you are 'local', or I can get you a 'deal' on one Monday so you'd have it Tuesday (I have an interest in the UK Distributor, but I can't recall prices off the top of my head. They're not too much, so let me know if you think it will help). Edited to say, just noticed locations don't show up in 'reply' mode! Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️) Edited by - Ian B on 24 Jan 2004 23:39:07

Hi Chris, I forgot a slash 😳 The eye's slowly getting better thanks, and have been able to use a contact lens for a few days now so I can see in stereo! Another check-up in 6 weeks but all looks OK. Missing the car on days like today ☹️ but the new chassis is at/leaving TSK, so just needs rebuilding ❗ Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)

Not especially strong, but I have a Wet Noodle Retriever with a magnetic tip It's a very flexible 1/4" 'rod' that stays in the shape you set it but has a magnetic 'end' here If you need to 'fish' something out of an awkward/unseen position then it might do the job? Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)]here Edited by - Ian B on 24 Jan 2004 21:54:44

Thanks for the suggestions. It turned out to be a failing weld in the exhuast just before the Cat. This was confirmed when there was a loud clunk as the weld failed completely whilst waiting stationary in a queue for a level crossing! Still, I couldn't hear so much of the whistle after that, mostly blowing exhaust! Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)

Thanks guys, I'll try and have a look at the W/E Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)

Thought I'd run this past the collective In the last few days I've noticed a very high pitched, low volume, whistle from the tintop (old P-reg Citroen 1.9D Turbo). Not noticed it before, and just concerned it mught be an early wallet warning? Was going to change it soon anyway so hope it's nothing too serious. Any ideas anyone? Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 (and not very well at all ☹️)

leather piping? Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

Ahh. Mines an 01 SV so probably also 3/16 - I'll try that, thanks. Oliver, unfortunately the 'nut' is a 'nutsert' attached to the inside of the tube, otherwise I'd ..... Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

*confused*Hmmm the bit of the thread I have left doesn't seem to match an M5 bolts thread pitch. The old bit is somewhat short and graunched so I'll try an M5 bolt anyway, thanks. Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

The one that is at the bottom of the hood sticks on each side and is used as the 'hinge'. Mine's sheared off! Anyone know what the thread is? - its abouit M5 but clearly not. Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

Thanks Peter et al. Guess I must be pushing it a bit too hard then Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

Hmmm. I had this on my 1600K yesterday - exactly as you describe Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

Morning Barry ❗ Just a very gentle reminder here Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 Edited by - Ian B on 31 Jul 2003 16:59:04

Well it seems fine again now! Wasn't just me though, see here Just hope it stays this way ❗ Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 Edited by - Ian B on 29 Jul 2003 16:12:50

Hi Barry, I know you're busy, and keep up the good work. However{!} I tend to keep Explorer (v6) minimised and every so often open it up and hit refresh every hour or so to see if any interesting new threads or additions to existing threads have appeared. Worked fine, and clicking on a new or updated thread would get all the recent posts, until today. Now when I refresh the main ChitChat page I get a list of the new and updated threads OK as before, but when I then go to the thread I only get the posts up to the previous time I looked at it, and have to refresh each thread again when I'm in it. I guess this might be something to with the bandwidth/ISP problems but it is very easy to miss the last few posts on a thread if you forget to refresh it once you've opened it, and end up replying to something 1/2 a page earlier 😳 Any ideas 🤔 Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

or send me a tenner and you have my new, packaged and unused one bought from Caterham for about £20 ❗ Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

Fred, YHM Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

You could try a few carefully placed wall mounted sound absorbers. One range here (bottom of the page) is designed to appear (and can be supplied ready made) as frameless art of your choice. Might fit in quite well with the clean and hard interior design of many French propoerties? If you are serious about getting some let me know as I'm designing 2 cinemas at present with them in (you might need to email my profile address though as I only look into TechTalk occasionally as I usually can't answer much!) Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬 Edited by - Ian B on 10 May 2003 22:35:15

See also here and here for comments and suggestions on this Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

I was recommended to Chips Away here when we needed to get small dents and scratches repaired on Co cars. They are a franchise operation and the result ENTIRELY depends on the local operator, so try to get some references. Ours was OK but not wonderful, other person I know said theirs was absolutely brilliant (but I can't remember who it was and where they were 😳). Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬

They're called 'windshields' and you could try a word search on here Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider 😬