Felix E

Thanks Myles, not those, the ones running the length of the engine bay longitudinally as opposed to transversely. Best Regards, Felix

Morning all. I seem to remember a thread that suggested these are only there for protection during transport and should be removed post build. Is that correct? Best Regards, Felix.

McAlvert,, sounds exactly like what I had post-build. The problem was an almost impossible to find issue (well done CC) which was the earth strap from the alternator being broken internally, so the fault was both hidden and intermittent. Caterham had a batch of these all with the same problem. Something to check if all else fails. Best Regards, Felix.

Pete, do check the thermostat when you get it out by suspending it in a kettle of water using string/wire. Bring the kettle to the boil and see if the stat opens (92 deg. or thereabouts) - maybe you won't need a new one. Some people recommed drilling a small hole in the stat to let water through which stops airlocks forming. Best Regards, Felix.

Chrisdl, I use 185x60 on the front and 195x60 on the back which works well and is not expensive (Yoko 539 for road use). There will be lots of options I am sure. Best Regards, Felix.

You could consider a stick-on plate, and although there seems to be a slight debate about their legality I don't think there have been any recorded problems. Very good mail order service from Impact Signs at Aylesbury. Best Regards, Felix.

Many thanks for your useful replies. It is indeed the pipework to/from the rad plus the rad itself which are cold, hence my concern that the stat is jammed shut. Last night I drained the system, removed the stat and put it in a kettle as I brought it to the boil. It opened nicely just below boiling, but not by much I have to say - 4mm perhaps. Is that enough? I did the same thing with the temperature sensor and watched the temp guage while the ignition was on - not a flicker. So I think that either the sensor or the guage is dead. How can I tell which? Johnty - the temperature is the same whether the heater is on or off. Many thanks to all for your replies. Best Regards, Felix.

Good afternoon. My 1800 SV has got some quite odd symptons at the moment. It just will not get up to temperature, even after 15 minutes idling on the drive. The temp guage is reading 60 degrees, the thermostat remains shut and so the fan will not cut in. The water pipes however all feel very warm indeed. All I can think of is; 1)I'm worrying unnecessarily and due to the cooler weather, the engine really is running at 60c. 2)I have two coincidental failures. Both the thermostat and the temperature recording equipment have broken at the same time. What do you think? Are all K Series engines running cooler at the moment? Best Regards, Felix

Hello Maddox. I changed the 16" wheel on my SV to 14's with Yokohama 539 185 70 profile tyres (to give the same overall diameter) running at 17 psi and it improved the handling no end. I would have gone for 13's but unless you have a dry sump, ground clearance becomes a bit of an issue. Best Regards, Felix.

KDeano, www.signswithimpact.co.uk in Aylesbury are excellent. Cheap and fast. Best Regards, Felix

Tomcat, give them ring on 01474 564311 and they'll tell you. Very helpful people. Best Regards, Felix.

I seem to remember from Physics lessons that black bodies radiate heat far more efficiently than any other colour, so would it improve engine cooling to spray the radiator with a high temperature black paint? Just a thought for a wet Wednesday afternoon. Best Regards, Felix.

Ron, you are not alone, I've got the same car, same age and the very same annoying problem. On a positive note, it does encourage me to drive smoothly. Best Regards, Felix.

Like many of us, I have now performed the remedial action as per the LF article and I have to say that one thing is immediately apparent; there is no noise difference between the clutch being in and out. Previously there was a distinct low rumble when in neutral which disappeared when the clutch pedal was depressed. I take this to mean that the pre load effect is working. Best Regards, Felix.

Silencer wanted, preferably 7" VHPD or alternatively 6" Caterham but anything better than the standard silencer-with-cat considered. Best Regards, Felix.