7_Malc

Here are my photos. The stanchion is bolted on (one side) and weighted down with a sandbag). 1. Passenger side holes are not lining up. Pulling the stanchion downwards closed the gap, but not enough to pass bolts through. 2.The passenger side of the stanchion does not follow the scuttle shape very closely. Is this correct? 3.With the drivers side bolted on, the stanchion does not follow the curve of the scuttle very well. There are gaps all along and very visible under the mirror mount. Is this correct?

Hello aero drivers. I have been assembling my "brooklands on a stanchion" kit and now I come to fit it to the car, the holes on the stanchion are 3-5mm out of alignment with the scuttle holes (windscreen mounts). I test fitted the plain stanchion before assembly and it lined up fine. Now it does not. My question is: Do these stanchions bend so easily that it could now be out of shape? If so, what is the best method of re-aligning it? It does not seem to follow the line of the scuttle very well, so I suspect it has flexed out of shape. For those Brooklands users who often switch between screen and Brooklands, does this alignment issue sound familiar?

Arthur?

I sympathise, but it does take time to find the right car for you. As for your frustration, imagine having a Seven of your own in the garage and not being able to drive it during lockdown. Have patience. Your time will come.

Yes please Rog… I'll message you directly.

Phew! Not as craaaazy as I thought then. Harrbe – please can you upload a photo of yours as some guidence, thanks.

Brooklands screen owners – has anyone successfully tapped a thread directly in to the stanchion (not the scuttle) to mount the wing mirrors? I want to lift off the complete assembly for easy swapping between full screen and the Brooklands pair – but I really don't want a black or white (SPA-style) mirror mount between the chrome stanchion and chrome mirror.

Private message sent JMB7 - many thanks

Thanks Ian – for both the text issues and your suggested solution. Can you direct me to a good supplier of the nuts and bolts you used?

Oh the joys of formatted text. Here it is again: I am building myself a set of Brooklands aeroscreens on a stanchion and need some guidance on attaching the various parts – side mirrors and screen mounts – to the stanchion prior to bolting the complete assembly on to the scuttle. The screen mounts come with screw holes (but no screws or bolts) and the many mirror options I have seen all have long base bolts that I think would protrude too far into the stanchion and impact on the scuttle underneath. Could anyone who has taken this path before me share some advice on what the best method is (and where to source the 'missing' parts) for attaching the screens and side mirrors securely to the stanchion, many thanks Malcolm

I am building myself a set of Brooklands aeroscreens on a stanchion and need some guidance on attaching the various parts – side mirrors and screen mounts – to the stanchion prior to bolting the complete assembly on to the scuttle. The screen mounts come with screw holes (but no screws or bolts) and the many mirror options I have seen all have long base bolts that I think would protrude too far into the stanchion and impact on the scuttle underneath. Could anyone who has taken this path before me share some advice on what the best method is (and where to source the 'missing' parts) for attaching the screens and side mirrors securely to the stanchion, many thanks Malcolm

Cheers Stuart, I am not familiar with these, so am guessing that I need two of these "kits": 'Japanese bullet connector kit. 2 terminals & 2 insulators' – one for each side of the screen. Is this correct? many thanks, Malcolm

Hi Ray – I am looking for some bullet connectors to replace the current spade connectors on my heated screen – just as you describe above. However the link you added (nine years ago) no longer works. Can you you hep me out with a pointer towards what to buy and where to get them… thanks, Malcolm

Hi Elie – I am looking to replace the cumbersome spade connectors on my heated screen with something that will allow quick and easy removal / replacement of the screen (and wire) when I swap to a Brooklands setup. Is there a particular Wago solution that for this that you would recommend? thanks Malcolm

Interesting prospect… if wind-generated energy is such a key factor, perhaps Scotland can get in on the act too? https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/porsche-e-fuel-plant-siemens-sustainable-synthetic-gasoline/

I have fitted Gemzoe Motorsport's LED bulbs this year. They are a direct swap for the H4 bulbs, and very easy to do. Dave includes a step by step guide, and it takes less than 10 minutes to complete.

… I was the Viper blue Roadsport behind you…

Rob at RatRace every time. Former Caterham specialist who used to be based in Barnet. Potters Bar workshop for services, MOT and all manner of setup / issues . Top Bloke.

Here's my recent adventure in K-Series cooling: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/k-series-coolant-leak-puzzle Hope it helps.

My cleaned up switch has failed - 12 months later. 2 x new (mazda) switches ordered for delivery tomorrow.

Agreed Clive – that's a cracker of a road. I have a 'new' favourite road on the Essex / Hertfordshire border that I'm still learning the rhythm for. I'll add it here once I have driven it a couple more times…

Update - good news! So after a day of faffing and failing to get a bolt of any size to fit snugly, I rang Rob at Ratrace for a chat (he serviced the car in April). We both agreed that driving the car with a loose / absent radiator screw was a bad idea… so he suggested removing the radiator and bringing it over. Smart man. It had not occurred to me that (obviously) the radiator was easy to remove… so I began draining the fluid – and at Rob's suggestion – collected it in a clean container to be filtered and reused at a later date. With the radiator bagged up, I headed to Ratrace for assessment. Rob was able to tap out the radiator thread to 7/16ths and fit a new bolt along with a bonded seal washer (Dowty washer) – so more education for me. Back home, I was able to reattach the radiator, and then refill / bleed with fresh coolant. I ran the car up to temperature in the garage, let the fan cycle three times and shut it off. Using a large cardboard box (flat) as a tell-tale drip tray I left the car over night. No leaks this morning, so a 30 minute test drive was undertaken. Car ran great and I'll head out for a proper drive tomorrow. Malc

Caterham brass radiator plug / screw does not fit. Any ideas on what make of radiator this, and what screw will fit? I would rather get the real thing than bodge it…

Here is my rad screw:

Thread seems to work fine, but then stops prematurely. If I add a washer the nut will tighten ok. What issues would a washer cause? What material would work best?