andyl

Anthony, I understand and I have made many carbon/kevlar items, however the prices that they are sold for are eyewatering?

Thank you they look nice Elie!

Has anybody tried these yet? http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/carbon-fibre-low-side-high-back-seat-shell.html Also are the SV seats different to the S3 seats? (I have an SV)

Tom here you are:-

PM sent!

ah S stands for "sport" :0) will they fit a 2010 SV which I think is wide track?

Sorry whats "S" suspension, Google is not explaining?

All the four products that are mentioned in the 5th gear report would never be used on a race track as people know that they are just "cosmetic" products. Most of us use the legitimate products (like Tetraboost and Millers etc) to stop pre-detonation and to save the engines, not for more power per se. Although saying that we got a standard MG 1600cc K engine, we dynode it on Shell V Power and it came out at 130 bhp, we then flushed through some F1 (pump fuel :0)) and with 3 runs it gave 140bhp, this is with standard ecu and ignition timings. The fuel smelt sweet and started to dissolve all our fuel lines. Putting V power back in the power dropped to 130 bhp. So it's not the full story when so called experts say you have to advance timing etc. The answer was in the calorific value of the fuel not the octane rating.

Thanks Gents, there are a few reasons why I think My Way (Frank Sinatra?) might be better:- 1) I notice on this forum that people comment that the Carbon Fibre Dash is quite flexible and not well supported (although I have not seen one myself) Putting this C/F panel onto the existing metal panel will be a lot more solid. 2) I really don't want to remove the scuttle as there are external rivets pained the same colour as the body, they will be replaced with bare Alloy heads. 3)There is less de-construction, if there was a dash to the correct dimensions (the Ultimate carbon will be a replacement not dimensionally suitable to stick over the existing dash). It probably will take me a couple of nights to knock up a mould and a night to lay up a dash. so I won't be saving much time but at least I won't be drilling out rivets. Simon_H, it is a home project but I probably will do it at my friends CF Company. sforshaw, understand your point of view but in my mind a thin CF dash mounted on an existing metal dash will actually be a better job and more structural. Strangely, I don't want to cut out scuttles etc, my dash is standard so no problems with cut outs.

Simon, it depends how it's made. I have a friend with a carbon company and he has produced some (race car) items that are extremely thin but strong (one layer carbon one layer Kevlar for a long race car bonnet). The mating surface can be made quite smooth using the correct GEL, bagging it and vacuum, or using infusion. Vinyl I fear will not weather well and does not quite have the quality and visual depth of the fibres? All I need is an SV dash to use as a buck, the materials are quite cheap. What appeals to me is if the bottom is made curled it would be easy to fix on the existing dash, incidentally the gauges and switches would assist in holding it down?

Personally my view is if it works leave it alone. I can see the need to change the brake fluid though. Yes I have to agree the search does not seem to isolate what I am searching for!

My 2010 SV has a somewhat marked standard dash where previous owners have stuck items on it so I started to consider a carbon fibre dash, however I now realise that it's semi serious engineering job where you have to remove the scuttle etc etc. Has anybody made a carbon fibre dash (2 layers say top layer carbon and bottom normal fibreglass) this would be quite thin and could be stuck over the existing dash, all you would have to do is remove the gauges and switches glue the dash in and replace the gauges and switches, The strength will come from the existing standard dash. Oh and before someone mentions it yes there will be no weight saving :0)

Peter its worth sorting I have used most Dataloggers and Racelogic in my opinion is just the best. My race engineer can even blow up the track map and you can see exactly where you are taking the wrong lines even with the Vboxsport and the Lite loggers.

Tetraboost cannot be used with Catalysts but Millers can,

Our experience (not on Caterham engines) was that we used Millers CVL on our Lotus TC engines https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60237-millers-oils-cvl-turbo-octane-booster.aspx, which apparently had a valve lubricant as well, this was recommended by our engine builder. My engineer now has swapped to TetraBoost which another engine builder had recommended. http://tetraboost.com/. Both seem to work just fine. I have seem some guys mix Shell V Power with Avgas 50/50 but apparently it's getting harder to get!

Sorry could not get wanted in the title!

Does anybody have a 2010 SV metric trackday rollbar for sale?

Hope you are using Circuit Tools 2, it's free to download. Suggest that you click on the "track" button of F11? Did you know that Racelogic provide free training at their site? Hope that helps Andy

Stuart advised me yesterday that the Caterham flywheel was 2Kg lighter and that his was 5Kg lighter.

DrJ or John, I have no Caterham bad experience as in the weather I just use a windscreen and let the air have its way. However we did have heat soak problems on a Clubmans (Mallock like) front engine race car, it even used to overheat the diff in a 20 min race. The problem was a mixture of convected and radiated heat. The first problem is that we didn't manage the air through the inside of the body so the engine heated the compartment up and it had nowhere to go. Secondly the front rad also provided hot air. We ended up putting Nasar ducts in the floor near the exhaust, then we channeled the air from the radiator in a large duct within the bonnet. However just as a few thoughts I probably would try:- 1) Ducts in hot air locations. 2) Maybe try this https://www.centaur-ind.com/product/thermcoat-advanced-thermal-insulation/ (of which I have no experience) 3) Stick this around the tunnel area and footwells https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/cool-it-heat-resistant-mat-245869/ if you go on the Demon Tweaks webpage and search for "Heat Shield". I have used ceramic coating, which should incidentally coat not only the outside but the inside of the exhaust/manifold I used Camcoat http://www.camcoat.com/, although I think there was a member also ceramic coating on here, but please coat inside and outside. Good Luck!

You should seek proper professional advice, when I looked at this with my K series race engine it appeared not necessarily so that a higher fuel pressure gave you any gains (remembering I used a standard Rover/MG ECU). Speak to say someone like DVA before you experiment?

Thanks Mossy but there is a VVC engine for sale so the idea was to swap lumps, doing that might entail other mods required which was the reason for my posting. Thanks anyway.

Has anybody done this? Can I just get the 125bhp ecu reflashed or do I need a new ecu? If it's a new ecu is it also a new harness or can the existing harness be modified? All help appreciated!

Or you can experiment with these https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/brake-bleeders/goodridge-speed-bleeder and report back to us how they are?

It was that miraculous engine designer Brian Hart that said "There's a lot of talk about BHP, but it's Torque that wins races" I had one of his Gem's, a Hart DFR and I can say it was fantastic :0)