andyl

Where are you (for collection)?

That is a very nice car!

Gearbox now sold

I have a newly reconditioned MG/Rover (based) 1600cc engine for sale, it was fitted to a Clubman's car that has been sold as a rolling chassis. This is a production spec engine and was put on an accurate rolling road and produced 130bhp. It has a dry sump with an external pump. Everything is standard Rover/MG and it has done one race meeting. Prior to this it was totally rebuilt by Paul Freemen and had a brand new head/valves etc fitted. As this is standard tune I assume that it can easily be used in a 7? Asking £2100.00 (which is marginally more than the bill to recondition it!) I also have a Straight cut 4 speed Quaife gearbox all alloy with a Rover/MG bellhousing for sale (see last picture) Based just North Of Bournemouth Andy (07831) 583583 or ANDYL@easynet.co.uk Hopefully my pictures will display :0)

It does not sound like synchro problems to me, have you checked the selectors? Also someone on here might know but I have read that the sequential boxes can't change gear when stationary (which may mean a high gear start?), maybe a more enlightened 7'er can help?

Thanks WP but does that mean I remove the blanking plate completely?

OK it didn't link, most forums allow you to preview but this one does not appear to?

I have purchased a fresh air heater off here now looking at my bulkhead I assumed that I would remove the blanking plate and bolt in the heater. However although the vertical face of the heater will replace the vertical hole in the bulkhead and therefore allow the vents to work When I look underneath the heater there are two square holes, which the function rather defeats me My question is, what do I have to do to the blanking plate to correctly install this heater? Pictures with thanks to Jonathan, I must say I am a newbie and I am very impressed with the helpfulness of the members, thank you!

ECR I just have a diagram from Caterham, one hose goes to the drivers side lower water pump outlet and one to the upper outlet.

Thanks Ian PM sent!

Adam I wondered what you were talking about ( 3 funnel sub) now I have a manual I can see! Yes if you have a submarine for sale I would be interested, do you know where the other heater connection is connected too? Regards Andy

Sorry about this but:- 1) Does it run an ECU? 2) I presume that the Weber chokes are not connected? 3) I have bought a heater on here, does anybody have either a manual or an extract of a manualthat will show me how to connect it to the cooling system? 4) Is there a service manual out there that will help me see my way around it? Thanks in advance Andy

PM sent

Thank you 1 well I took my 7 to the MOT yesterday and had to be thawed out on my return, do all 7 owners get a dead right hand?

Thanks just a heater now!

I am after a heater, panel and control valve etc for a 1998 VX 1.6L Regards Andy

Paul, yes I have thought of it but I have an Ital rear axle :0( so I don't think that would work. From my research my Rover engine which is dry sumpted would probably need a bellhousing with integral oil tank, I have just realised that that means you have to use a 6 speed gearbox, then there is the clutch operation, the rear axle would need changing, the bonnet would have a hole in it for the webers which it would not need with a K engine, plus lots more things, I'm starting to think either tune up the VX engine slightly or trade up to what I want (as someone suggested earlier).

Quote "Tune the VX lump with a head, cam and mapped ignition and you'll have as much power as you'll want to put through that axle " Where do you go for this, who is the expert?

Thanks for the axle advice!

TomB,That will cost money and the Classic VX has only done 1700 miles

Paul_W, If I uprate the VX then thats the same to the rear axle? I'm sure a properly setup axle would take 140bhp, in fact it's the torque that kills gearboxes and axles? I don't think I need another tank the engine was raced with just a high pressure fuel pump (we didn't even need a lift pump) feeding into the injection system on the head.

TomB, unfortunately these K engines do not seem to command a decent price, my K series came from one of my race cars had just been fully rebuilt £1900 labour, has a brand new head, and a dry sump with the magic purple pump. It's MSA sealed and is standard MG1600 running at 140 bhp, one of my rivals has done 7 seasons with this type of engine so they are rugged as they are not really tuned. But alas not worth much.

To give you all the information here is Caterham's take on it: Hello Andy The 1.6 classic is a live axle chassis and the K-series is a Dedion. We did not fit the k-series into the L/A chassis so cannot confirm if there with be any issues e.g fouling on the pedal box or the exhaust hitting outer chassis tubes. Both the engine harness and main looms will be different with the engine harness being no longer available for the k-series. The engine mounts will be different, not sure whether you will have the correct positioning in the chassis for the K-series mounts. The exhaust system will be different, also the bonnet. These should be the major issues covered. Regards Tony

Oops just edited my post I have a 1998 VX, thanks Simon

Caterham sell various engine mounts dependent on the engine, however that are saying that they don't know about the combination of my chassis and engine as they never sold the K engine in that VX chassis. I'm pretty sure it should fit but I just wondered if any club member has already done it. I could even offer up the engine and fabricate my own engine mountings, however my choice would be always to use off the shelf parts if they work?