Paul Mason

I'll get right on that GJT.......may help avoid more bloodshed!

May save the glue to deeper into the holiday period........ In terms of the overspray Elie, not a full coat of paint, more that dusty finish from overspray....my question was more around whether thinners, nail poilish remover etc would damage the bare aluminium. Will pop a pic on to show you what I mean

Ian, whilst my current post may strongly indicate a "polisher" nature.......what I would say in my defense is that the car was put up on stands on Sunday, having done 1k miles since 20th October, in weather generally considered inclement. Its not pretty underneath (yet.....though cleaning is purely maintaining condition and protecting rather than beautifying). Whilst the car has been, and will be kept clean during my ownership, its primary purpose is to illicit an inane (or stupid, delete as appropriate) grin upon my face. I am merely looking for a winter activity to help me endure the cold and general festivity of the period! Not that I'm a grump or anythin Yes, GJT, futile it is, though curiously rewarding (you wouldn't think it to look at the daily which gets cleaned when its serviced). And no, not doing as been banished........however, it has been suggested that "using an expensive oak dining table to clean my stopping f***ing bonnet" wasn't a good idea?? I did try to argue to the contrary, stating I had covered the table with one of the kids blankets to protect it.....however that didn't seem to resolve the anger on display.....

That would be a roger GJT Car is up on jack stands, can't have any fun for the next few weeks, so I shall use the time polishing and fettling and daft stuff like that - have already done the exhaust! All mechanicals in order so need something to help me remain sane during the winter period..

Elie, not looking to paint, merely wishing to remove the existing overspray on the inside and then polish the bare aluminum Jonathan, not 100%, just the stuff SWMBO gets from the supermarket? Guessing modern (and cheap) stuff, and wanting just to remove any paint overspray to make the polishing easier?

Using nail varnish remover to clean overspray off the inside of a 7's bonnet? Yesterday, having finished with the autosol on the exhaust, and being very pleased indeed with the results, thought I'd give the inside of the bonnet a quick go over and see what that looked like. In short, patch I've done looks great, so will continue and do the whole thing. Problem is, there is quite a lot of overspray on the inside, which is a pig to remove to then get at and clean the aluminium. To speed the process up, was going to use some nail varnish remover to clean the surface of all overspray etc. Not being particularly bright when it comes to metrology, is nail varnish remover on bare aluminium unwise/downright stupid??

I've bought an Optimate which I have now attached a permanent cable and plug into the car and can just leave on. It was only £45 or so, really neat and has a really simple LED display to tell you what its doing. It will never overcharge, just continually discharge and charge I believe to keep everything topped up and healthy.

I'll be of no use whatsoever as my car is a k series car and not sure how the underneath of a 1993 (vauxhall engined??) 7 looks, but just thought I'd say hello and welcome anyways. I thought I was brave going out in the cold of the north east of England in a 7.......guessing it's a tad colder in Nova Scotia!!

Hi Phil, potentially interested in the wheels - need to double check my sizes as I have 175 front and 235 rear (Khumho V70a) so not 100% these will be the right size? Am looking for some spares as would like to be doing a few track days next year so this could be just the thing Would you be able to PM me some pictures please Cheers Paul

Many thanks both, it’s going to be a job for this weekend for me

Many thanks Oily

Thanks for that. I’ll start with seeing if I can flare a little. Hadn’t thought about silicon or something like loctite. Not sure whether the car has a cat though so will proceed with caution.....

1.8k with Powerspeed (I believe) 4-2-1 system. At the end of the primaries, where they go into the 4-2 collector, the outer top joint has a slight phut phut on it and immediately on start up as it warms through sprays a very fine damp mist (guessing unburnt petrol as it warms up, no mist when warm, just the noise). Question.......is removing, cleaning and applying a little putty wise or any consequences to the exhaust I’m not aware of? The joints themselves are clean from any detritus and look undamaged (as I say, the “blow” is slight, I’m just a faff) If no unknown consequence, and recommended products or just any generic putty? Ta’s in advance

My car (1.8 k) has has carbon arches, carbon cycle wings, carbon nose, tillets, spare wheel carrier removed, 5 speed, jenvys, bride starter, R500 3.2kg flywheel and Odyssey Extreme battery (all prior to my ownership so my £/Kg unaffected) and came with a cornerweight result showing weight of 611kg with driver in, half a tank of fuel and nose cone off. Don't know the previous owners weight, but assuming he was 85kgs put the weight of the car at 526kg. Not sure of the variance in 1.4k vs. 1.8k

Thanks Andrew......I think I understand

Andy, relatively recent returnee to the fold also (with a car that is almost the double of your last car). Drove a few when purchasing and also have memories of my last Bilstein suspended car. I’ve bought a car which has Nitron suspension and Eibach springs (not sure which type of either I’m afraid) but can confirm a, to me at least, significant improvement vs standard, seemingly much more compliant as well as far less skittish. Seem to get the benefit of handling without the traditional hard ride (not sure how they manage that). May be worth trying as you search

Andy, are you or have you done anything with the headlights? Mine are woeful (or it may be just my eyes). I have 5.75 inch (I think) with a flat (ish) clear lens (definitely not a standard affair l don’t think) with normal bulbs. Its on my list though not urgent as limit budget left for 7 as SWMBO has put a stop to my recent spending on account of buying something for the children for Christmas

I know it wasn’t the purpose of the original post so apologies Andrew, but am understanding thus far that a 5w40 is slightly thicker than a 5w50 and does that mean the tappets will fill a little quicker? Also, what is the desired oil pressure range when warm on tickover, moderate and heavy loads? For reference, 1.8k, VHPD head, piper 1144 (I think) cam and springs, dry sump

I have bought some Comma Motorsport 5w 50 which is what I was told was in the car and right for the car (Pace dry sump). No additional insight that that from me I’m afraid. What I would say is does indeed sound like the tappets rattle while they fill up on a cold start on a cold day. I start and leave to tickover for a while anyways and the noise goes after 30 - 60 seconds (depending on how cold it is it would seem). Please note, the above statement is an observation from me putting my lug against the Cam cover and the noise seems to be top end and quietens down so guessing tappets) Oil pressure 60psi immediately on start up, will increase to c. 80 under load (c.4k rpm) and once oil fully warmed (60-80 degrees though small scale and poor eyes make that difficult to be more exact) seems to settle at 35psi pressure Not sure I’ve added any value?

Many thanks John, I was actually quite pleased with my handiwork (appreciate its a simple bit of spannering, but gotta start somewhere) As an added bonus, doesn’t leak or anything! Celebrated with a half hour/45 minute drive in the chilly, but gloriously bright north eastern sunshine and all oil remained where it should!

Thanks to you guys I now know what a “banjo” is. Much appreciated Before And after....

As a recent returnee to the world of 7’ing I had forgotten about the noises, bangs, pops, whines, drones etc. Whilst the drone and whine in 4th and 5th are tiresome at 40-60mph, the rest of the noise I actually quite like. Well, apart from the squeal of the brakes when going slowly/in traffic, which makes a fairly conspicuous mode of transport even more so! On my future, when there’s a few spare quid, maybe, possibly someday if I can ever afford it list, will be a straight cut gearset to make it even noisier! That said, as much as I love it, still sounds like something is going to fall off or break every time I drive it! But in the 700 or so miles I’ve done in the last 5 weeks, nowt has yet so happy days! Current solution...........select second gear, make the shift lights dance and then I can’t hear anything but the glorious shriek of K series goodness. Sorted

I am going to go buy a banjo bolt, banjo fitting and crush washers to create a little more margin underneath the car per advice received. If I take out the fitting to the filter housing and elbow joint and associated fitting to oil pipe, will the weight of the oil in the dry sump canister (which feeds into the back of the filter housing) push all of the oil out through the open oil sender hole on the bottom of the filter or as the pump isn’t running, will the only loss be what’s in the filter? I’m wanting to remove the current pipe work so I can take it to Pirtek or similar to ensure I get the exact sized banjo bolt and fitting to join with the current filter housing and pipe work- but don’t want to com back to a empty dry sump tank (I have spare oil, just don’t want to mess on with anything that doesn’t need it)

Thanks for both Jonathan. Now your picture of a coke can makes way more sense! Slowly but surely this stuff will sink in.