auyt

Apologies if I am rehashing this this thread for the umpteeth time. And my search of the threads didn’t find anything. it seem to be impossible to fill my 7 with spilling fuel. I can only do it very slowly even with the nozzle just over the edge of of the bend in the hose. I shortened the bottom part of the rubber joiner so the horizontal part is now with a slope away from the cap but that didn’t help much. Is there a mod/trick to resolve this or is it just something to live with.

This video may answer some question, interesting result

Interesting thread, if this helps anyone my 7 has a freshly rebuilt 1968 Lotus Twin Cam. At the suggestion of the engine builder I’m using Evans. I had read and heard of issues with race engines running Evens due its viscosity , but after covering 200miles I have had no issues. And yes I have 1 litre just in case. Mine is set it up with an overflow and the level does change but by a very small amount if at all. And as an added precaution against TC water pump issues it’s fitted with a Davis Craig electric coolant pump love how it works and manages the system.

PM sent

?This style of joint? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/For-BMW-E46-320i-323Ci-328Ci-M3-Lower-Flexible-Steering-Shaft-Coupling-Assy-OES/170709274382?hash=item27bf10cf0e:g:GfYAAOSw2IVbYY01&vxp=mtr

Anodising and chrome are porous and bare ally all should have a few coats of carnauba wax from new.

It could be the battery terminals terminals but from what you have said it ran yesterday. as a friend found recently AGM batteries don’t die like lead acid, they will charge but not hold the charge and don’t have any cracking amps even when it reads 12v... bit confusing and very annoying. As for the fuel, if you are concerned there is a fuel stabiliser which stops the phase out, generally high octane fuel has shelf life of 3 months. If the storage it is going to be a long period, I would suggest an oil change, helps protect bearings from corrosion. The guys on F....I chat in the US have extensive discussions about winter lay-up.

Funny I was just looking for BRG codes, who manufacturers the paint?

I have it in the back of my mind Derek Batty posted a Search format for us to use but as usual I cannot find it*tumbleweed*

Filters vary in fairly generic sizes, ie the thread, the outer diameter of the seal and the length. Take the HALFORDS part number and Google what it fits and go from there, and look for cross refernce pages there are quite a few. Happy hunting.

I thought you may be interested I’ve updated the Blog with evidence of progress.

After 12 months of work and some expense I finally have my 7 back to heath. I thought I would share some before and after photo's and details of some of the work and mods. Bump steer dialed out, first road test proved I got it correct. Stainless header, one polishing buff on a bench grinder 12 months work. Engine has had its potential extracted during a very extensive rebuild. The head came with previous, serious amount of work done. New lead free seats to suit the BRM size valves D type vernier cams ( we think). Stock crank and rods but with ARP bolts throughout, JE 83.5 mm pistons with 10.9:1 Comp D type cams, Tilton Dry sump setup, which proved interesting as there is a different engine mount needed for the right. Caterham just happen to have one! Also interesting is this chassis was for a 17 Crossflow, however a TC is narrower than so some 10mm ally spacers R/H side and 5 on the left sorted that. The R/H mount needed packing up 5mm under the chassis end so carbs clear the chassis and fit neatly in the bonnet. Davis Craig Electric water pump which gains a few HP and sorts and future leek issues. silicone hoses through out and Evens coolant will hopefully arrest any corrosion. and if you fit one make sure you follow the wiring for the fan relay, I didn't resulting lots of head scratching. The computer earths the relay. Electric fuel pump replacing the diaphragm type. The Blanking plate for the original pump makes a good mount for the oil filter. Ally 4 bar radiator from a Honda Civic ($70 AUD) and it is solid and well made. I made a new Mount arrangement to ensure it had some flex. and some new bafles After the first engine run, a 123 Ignition unit was fitted to sort timing issues. Jetting is all over the place, and thats a work in process. lots of cleaning and repainting and a Major wiring tidy up. New K&N filters and 38mm trumpets. Gord it loud Lots of polishing...followed lots of polishing Rear trailing arm bush as found , every bush, trunnion and bearing changed A Few new parts Rubbery disintegrating gear change to an Escort Gearbox Replaced by two rally units a bit of weld and a spring to get a biased towards 3rd and 4th A bit retro Bling, Chrome bezels, and a ally gear knob from Elise parts Cleaned and treated fuel tank new solid fuel lines, new seat belts

I have had some good success with product. The Key is do small areas with the Deoxidizer first and before it dries use the polish, then use a microfiber cloth to clean of the surface. even the Anodised screen comes up nicely Then finish it with a Carnauba wax to seal it.

Works a treat! thanks Anthony

There is a video on you tube by the guy from AMMO about cleaning the rear window of a soft top BMW, sorry I can’t find the actual video but this is the link to his site. ( I’m on holidays in China and YouTube is blocked by the Government ) https://www.ammonyc.com/

Reading this I cannot help but ask what chassis and gearbox is the issue related to? As there is a difference in access from an S3 to an SV. As The S3 is fully sheeted underneath an an SV is open MY S3 is a pain but welded on all steal lock nuts worked and bolts from underneath.

Thanks for the link, I did look at these, however if there wasn’t a bearing available it would be a option, there is and I’m happy with the original setup.

I don’t expect a problem, the best bit is there is a bearing available.

My bearing place found these http://bearingsize.info/catalogue-online/tapered-roller-bearings/bearing-4t-03062-03162-ntn-obj159370.html I am yet to fit them, the only difference is the assembled thickness .06 mm thinner. It might need a shim behind the cone. The Link alone will be useful for chasing other bearings

Sadly the upgrade is only available for the Ford PCD. I have Bearings on order and will post the info when I get them.

Yes Chris has the kits for the Ford PCD Just waiting to hear if he has the 3-3/4 PCD kits

Thanks guys I will look into the upgrade it, The KOYO Bearing parts numbers don’t appear on the KOYO web page or the international bearing data base that accessed by those who pay for it.

I am probably rehashing a previous post, but the search engine turned up zilch. have been chasing new front wheel bearings for my 85 Caterham. The originals are KOYO pno. 03052 and 03152. After some frustration of buying Triumph units I discover that the bearing are specific to Caterham..gurrr. how have others tackled this as Caterham don’t have any.

POR15 is good product on an etched surface is great and has gloss finish. Also buy only what you need, as it goes off in the tin once opened. And spillage around the lip of the can, can make the lid almost impossible to get off, the after the first use, don’t bother on the second attempt you will destroy the lid getting it off. The Eastwood product when applied looks more like a powder coat finish

I can vouch for the Eastwood Chassis paint. I’ve tried the POR 15 it needs to be warm weather and it tends to get bubbles when applied with a brush and doesn’t stick to a shinny surface, it peals of like tape.