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If I can add my experience, just blanking as has been said doesn't sort the issue, this kit is the best way, http://www.dellorto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/CRK001sht16.pdf. I tried just the blacking plates and one of the cold start pistons got stuck full open when the car coughed on start and it took me ages to work out why the car was running rich.. bleeding obvious now.

After some investigation the Wako system, the dizzy optical trigger is luminition. Parts have the same numbering, I used the luminition test procedure to find the LA 700 module is dead, I have a spare Luminition unit and that's goin in with out the rest of the WAKO electronics. To complicate the whole deal there is an immobiliser in the mix.

Hi Guys, I am assisting a friend with an ex Japanese 89 cross flow. Main issue is the car has no spark. The Car is fitted with ... wait for it... WAKO Tech ignition trigger ( looks for all the world like a Bosch 25 or Luminition) ,booster and booster. of which there is no information available and even contacting the company in Japan I am yet to get a response. Can some one tell ne what the original ignition units were,

Older spring material definitely, you can have them reset/tempered that helps. But new springs seem to last longer due better steel allows.

Hi JV, its an 85 live axle car and originality is important to a degree. Odd thing about the car but nice to me is it has an original LOTUS Twin Cam engine which was fitted latter.

Hi Guys, I wanted to get some suggestions for rear badging as I find Im getting tailgated with people trying to work out what the car is. I have the Caterham cars Caterham England and the Super 7 badges to put on the guards, is there a measurement for them to go under the rear tail lights? Can any one also suggest another badge for the rear as the above are quite small. I am also thinking of getting the script "Its a real one" under the number plate as there are so many knockoffs here in Australia

Caught up with two Aussie Caterham friends at Motorclassica this year. From Left to right me Bruce Severns and Scott Mckay

If can add forged pistons like JE use cast piston Clearance due to the material they are made from, so check with the piston manufacturer what they recommend

Great price, very nice spec. That's top money for an early ish 7 but remember its getting very difficult in the US to register cars like the 7 and the best bit its an easy car to look after. every part is available. Here is Aus Classic Caterham's have been slowly going up in price. I bought a very tired, dead engine (LOTUS Twin Cam) 85 4 speed, Live axle car 2 years ago for 13,200 UKP, and spent double what I bought it for sorting it and I will get most of it back. that's if I ever sell it. We also get cars from Japan with the BDR's in them and they fetch good money. New 7 here are prohibitive a RHD (euro 5 spec) 270 is 45,000 UKP as for top spec 485, 66,000 UKP it has, wait for it, a luxury car tax as part of the price

FB pages sorry lost me, link please?

Thanks for the suggestions Ill followup

Hi Guys, I don't recognise these seats as the sell claims they are an option in 1992 What are they https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-caterham-super-7-3/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2019-09-21

3.5 is good from my experience. I would’nt suspect the jet are gummed up unless you have been running ethanol fuel. It dries and leaves a gold waxy surface.. worst bit it’s corrosive.

Thanks guys for the compliments and thoughts. I am planning to make these in a commercial way, at this point in time and to ship them internationally would make them expensive, even though I hant costed them. Getting the steel supports water cut were about 30UKPs each and its suprising how much work was involved in making the buck to make the molds for the lower section. Adding extra seals along the front edge is something I plan to look at tying to keep it neat is the trick actually bonding it the support frame is probably the way to go.Oddlly even though there is 3mm clearance along the front edge to the screen there wasn't any gushing air coming in but rain water is a different matter. and also a fresh air vent is also something I plan to do as a 7 on a 20c degree day with the roof up in the rain is stifeling according to my friend who suffered this on his 70 mile very first drive home.

The Fit and finish is OK but and is a bit deceptive in the picture as they are prototypes. and I am doing mods to the next set for a friend. I Designed a simple steel support and had them water cut in 3mm steel see drawing pic Polycarbonate ( better structurally not optically) I bought from my local hardware and that is hand cut with an angle grinder with a 1mm disk. The trick there is to polish the edges to remove stress raiser. To do this I used a bench grinder with a soft cotton buff. The Lower section is where the work was and I am still improving them. The F/G lower section cloth and 6oz chop strand matt. The side of a 7 around the side of the dash is a far more complex shape than first appears. as such the steel supports are bent in a number of directions. The steel support and the lower sections give the poly a slight 2D curve to stiffen them and it worked.I was concerned they would vibrate at speed and they don't even at 110 Ks. The Trick to stopping them rubbing issue is the use of a 1/8" black felt that in strategic places. The assembly is bolted together using mm screws threaded into the mm steel, but I plan to replace then with Chicago bolts ( google them)

After some considerable amount of work and time I made some new side screens for the car. I could have bought Caterham ones but as I have an original low vis roof and am too tight to buy a whole new setup, I designed an made my own. The Main reason is the original ones the frame and vynal trim are at eye line and I wanted the improved elbow room. The picture is of the first set which is a prototype version, but they worked brilliantly. They have a 1/4" curve along the length with just add a small amount of stiffness. I plan to keep upgrading the design and change the whole support structure to Carbon Fiber, as these are steel and with the 3mm polycarbonate 250 grams heavier than the factory ones. The design is such there three mirror locations possible including at the top of the frame. The screen are also designed to work with the original roof hence the odd shape at the rear.

Definitely not from a cat as that’s a solid honey comb material, That looks like fiber glass wool from a muffler that the inner pipe has corroded away, sorry if that’s obvious. I found this pic of collapsed cat.

After some considerable amount of work and time I made some new side screens for the car. I could have bought Caterham ones but as I have an original low vis roof and am too tight to buy a whole new setup, I designed an made my own. The pictures are of the first set which is a prototype version, but they worked brilliantly. I plan to keep upgrading the design and change the whole support structure to Carbon Fiber, as these are 250 grams heavier than the factory ones. The design is such there three mirror locations possible including at the top of the frame. The screen are also designed to work with the original roof hence the odd shape at the rear.

I have a set for my car, the buffeting is an issue and as suggested a greater angle may help. Below 60ks it’s not to bad but above that I recommend ear plugs/defenders as they will help stop your ears from being pounded from the buffeting.

Great thank I contacted Oxted this morning, waiting to see what they can offer

Just checking. is this the company? https://www.oxtedtrimming.co.uk/automotive/ May I ask even if its a PM what the retrim cost please?

Thanks guys some very valid suggestions and ones I hadn't thought of. Jonathan Could it be petrol rather than exhaust? good thought... there a breather on the tank that just vents to atmosphere Weber Mixtures are still being sorted. Have you got the results of a recent exhaust emissions test? .....not necessary here... thank goodness, having said that I am doing the tune of the engine myself, 11:1 comp BRM valved and ported head D type cams. Im using an Innovative motor sport Wide band 02 reader great toy. The Engine has 12.5 ratio at 3,000 rpm up (very happy with that) but at the transfer point at 2.500 that needs more adjustment, but Idle is side and pump jets I am happy with. But will tweak them further when I get a 02 plug put in the exhaust harrebe The side exit is in serious consideration. but oddly they are illegal here as the fume may come in the side windows.... My friends ex Japan has one and they didn't make him change it when it came into the country! MADMALC It has a breather catch tank with a K&N type filter so moving the filter its self may be an idea. Sooty Interesting idea however its a drysump Twin Cam and filler and breather are reworked Again Guys thank you

After two , one hour blats up the Tollway yesterday, whether its because it was the first time on the the road at a constant speed in fast flowing traffic ( 110Ks... honest), the exhaust fumes in the car seemed higher than I would liked. My car is an 85 with only high density foam over the pedal pivots. The Engine is a just run in LOTUS Twin Cam with the exhaust exiting the rear not the side. There are no exhaust leaks and the engine has a catch tank breather on the dry sump. tank. I also had the Hood roll attached to the roll bar and the car has roll bar mounted head rests, and I had the side screens on. Given the air turbulence I am wondering if the side exhaust is better in this regard?

Interesting My 85 7 doesn’t have harness mounts.

I've now fitted the new springs and shocks and what a difference. Mainly on rough roads at 100ks big improvement. Besides being Bilstien shocks the springs are made by Eibach ( as most are probably aware ) and Marked Caterham. The fronts I roughly worked at are 140lb but the rears have two different rates due to way there wound and that did my head trying to work it out. There is a course height adjustment via a circlip