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Paul and others thanks for the insight, not heard of Protech till this, but I do live on the other side of the planet, I shall follow up. Regards Graeme

As for chargers, they have certainly moved on, I use CTEK chargers ( Battery conditioners) on all my lead acid batteries, clever little suckers. Best thing is you leave the battery charger connected when the car is not being used and they cycle the after 10 days to keep plates clean, I get up to 8 years out of a battery. AGM batteries I use GENIUS unit as the charging rate is very low for these batteries. hope that helps

I am thinking that in the 35 odd years since the last of the live axle cars were made, shock absorber tech has moved on... mine has adjustable black SPAX. What are others using and what do people recommend, given the car is used on back roads. Thoughts ?

You have done well getting it in there, however Is inlet hose below the bottom of the radiator? If not you need to bleed the pump inlet hose, a bleeder will resolve that, otherwise the pump will cavitate.

is the heat shield still available

From the pictures sent and taken the assembly appears to be a TR6 unit. The Black plastic unit zip tied underneath is a proximity switch for the immobilizer If your wondering why there is a LOTUS badge on the keys, in the 80s CATERHAM wasn't known to the Australian registration authorities ( as an added complication each state has different regs )

Great thanks It will be tomorrow before I have a better idea, it’s 9pm here.

I’ll get him to take a picture, and the offer of the old unit I’ll keep in mind. Ill also follow up on some of the suggestions.

Good idea, however he wants to keep it original. Strange as that seems it's on historic rego and needs to be kept that way.

I would like to know what the origins of the ignition switch assembly for an 88 Super Seven? A friend who isn’t on the forum (just slack really) came to visit the other day for a blat, and the power from the switch to the ignition open circuited on the way here, luckily next to a coffee shop.. got have some luck. The local road side assistance guys diagnosed it as the ignition switch, jury rigged it to the fuel pump relay to get him home. I had a quick look I recon they can be dismantled and cleaned but he wants to replace it, any idea of its origin, only complication it’s a Japanese delivered car dought that makes a difference.

I have a feeling thats my plight.

Guys thanks for all you input I will try your suggestions Yes based in Australia, sadly the top of the tank attached pipe is about 1" below the bottom of the filler so I have the bend as tight as I can get with a downward slope in it to stop the fuel pouring backwards well sort off I studied the Bowser when I filled to ute ( it is also a pain but it has a long straight section) the one I used has the vacuum shutoff breather in the delivery pipe not outside or just back from the fuel out let. So the slightest bit of fuel even fill it slowly that spills or splashing back over the vacuum pipe shuts it off, Ill give the upside down method a go but im not confident. And the other thing I will try is a reducer in the filler to stop it running backwards.

I bought some fuel today for my mower and had a look at the bowser handle and this type seems to be common here and has the shut off vent in the actual end of the nozzel, so a minor splash back trips it off. I tied the restrictor just fill the can and its not much good either. Annoying problem back to head scratching

I have found that 68 Mustangs have similar issues and I found this solution , which in effect is the unleaded filler restrictor. it at least reduces spillage

Yes I have a Merlin tank in my 85, 7, and all I can advise you on is you need a new RH engine mount, Caterham had one hopefully they have more, sorry I bought the last one. the plumbing is tight and you need to think a bit out side the square. Buy a pump with the oil filter as part of the assembly , plenty of room for the filter, I used a remote filter... a real pain to plumb. Picture is the best way to describe how its fitted. I replaced the original battery tray with a piece of 3mm ally and put the tank on top of that. Battery moved to top of the scuttle but yours may be down under the steering shaft. I used a Peterson dry sump tank support ( because I had one) The scavenge oil goes via an oil cooler down the left side and the oil feed goes up and over the bell housing. BDG cars went underneath, but over is safer.

There is always the complication of various engine structures aluminum head and block and aluminum and cast iron block. Then there is the efficiency of cooling systems, be they passive or active (computer controlled electrical water pump) and radiator types which vary and computer controlled engine cooling via fuel injection increasing fuel to increase cooling of the combustion gasses and timing changes. The latter doesn't exist of a webered engine antique engine design. That is why trying to keep the experiment simple was important Fun thing the Mpemba effect was discovered by an Indian school, and as a side line the 4th state of water https://www.iflscience.com/physics/new-quantum-state-water-discovered/ But Im getting of track.

Would not the process basically focus on time to cool a given volume using a standardized cooling process that can be repeated. Even heating say a liter on the stove to 90 degrees C and putting in the fridge or just leaving it out isde and measure time to dissipate the the heat back to say 10 degrees C. My guessing is the Evans will 35% slower followed by 50/50 mix at 25% and water last Can we run a pole to see the result?

As experiments go I’m running evens and with the electric water pump, the system maintains 87c any thing over 90 sets of an alarm and light. Initially on my freshly built engine the thermostat housing had a tiny weep with the odd drip straight onto #3 exhaust with no issues I think the basis of this discussion is based of ones own risk assessment of using Evans, for me the anti corrosion higher boiling point in an old engine.

Im thinking as I don't have a flap that a plastic Jerry can flex filler may work, i have found the nozzle are 1" in diameter and getting it to work with the bowser shutoff is the issue

Interesting point you have raised, and an eyebrow as well, however after some googling for me the advantages out way the flammability issue. There appears to be more of a chance of the first fire causation being fluids other than coolant, fuel for example. Articles about this 50/50 Glycol state that once the water evaporates its just as flammable. Also the engine operating temps are not high enough for it to ignite straight glycol From the EVANS MSDS the Flash point is 120C. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71k9VBQ8B7L.pdf Researching what "flash point" means I found this article, which is interesting because it actually sites the example we are talking about http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ref/flashpoint.html For example, gasoline has a flash point of approximately -40 degrees C (-40 F) and is more flammable than ethylene glycol (antifreeze) which has a flash point of 111 degrees C (232 F) in closed cup tests. The other thing to consider is both the FAA and EASA have mandated the use of waterless coolants for fluid cooled aircraft engines this is done for a separate reason ie operating temps being higher than coolants can cope with, but the flammability aspect would be taken into consideration. and if your having trouble sleeping after reading the above and while I have gone off topic this is an article by Garrett Engineers on what Auto fluids burn should be just the ticket https://garrett-engineers.com/cases-of-the-month/what-auto-fluids-burn/

I am sure Im not the only person with this issue on early cars, so I will keep trying. I need to get some more fuel so I will take some measurements of the nozzle and see what I can come up with. Goal, keep the fuel going into the tanks and it not shutting the nozzle of until its full , seems simple enough...

It will be interesting when you do do an experiment and see the results This article may help https://www.hotrod.com/articles/glycol-or-water-coolant/ The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol–based water solutions is less than that of pure water; in a 50 percent solution, ethylene glycol’s specific heat capacity compared with pure water is decreased at least 20 percent at 36 degrees and about 17 percent at 200 degrees. Propylene glycol, another common coolant, has an even lower specific heat. Assuming a 100-gpm (gallons/minute) coolant flow rate and an energy loss through the coolant system of 189.5 hp, the water temperature increase would be 10 degrees, the ethylene glycol water mix would gain 20 degrees, and propylene glycol would gain 33.3 degrees............... ................Bottom line: A large-tube aluminum radiator filled with pure water and using at least a 20-psi cap is by far the best heat-transfer setup, provided the vehicle is not subject to freezing conditions. Be sure to add a corrosion inhibitor when running pure water.

I can give an example from my own experience with Evans as to how fast it transfers heat. Basically my 7 has an aluminum radiator about the same size as the original escort unit as my car is an 85 build. A Davis Craig electric water pump system. When you turn the engine off after a run it is at its optimum temp of 87c, the system controller continues to run the fan and the water pump until the system sees 76 degrees, the speed this happens is less than 30 seconds and you can see the direct reading gauge move as it does so. One of the most import aspects of Evens it effectively eliminated localised boiling at the top of the piston bore to cylinder head. As for the 50/50 coolant mix, my understanding is the glycol is anti corrosive lubricant for the water pump and the key is cold climate anti freeze. The radiation pressure cap gives the higher boiling point. Lots of guys i know with vintage cars run demineralised water with water wetter added to improve the cooling effect.

Tried those,but not 180, I wonder if the type of bowsers makes a different.

The filler is the early style, as you can see no restrictions and you can see the top of the tube from the tank. I have tried a few petrol stations with the same issue. I have reasurched how a bowser works and I may have hit on something, the nozzle air tube needs to be not sitting on the filler neck. https://www.brainstuffshow.com/videos/gas-nozzle-video.htm I may need to try putting it in upside down. But your suggestion of a filler novel are worth a thought thank you.