RyCliff

These were taken off my car and replaced before the MOT last week. They are down to the wear bars so only suitable for track use really, though they are from a time when these tyres were E- marked. Free to anyone who wants them if they can collect, in Barnard Castle area.

Sent you a private message, not sure if it was received as I got a sent note at the same time as a send failure. Would be interested on behalf of my dad. Could you advise where your based? Thanks

I've since spoken to 213 performance who are the new UK service representatives for Stack, they've said that with a snapped needle the unit can't set it's zero point at startup and hence I'm seeing this issue. Hopefully will all be fixed when I get it sent off to be fixed!

Thanks Jonathan, my issue is I don't know where physically in the car the engine speed wire should be connected. The ST700 manual doesn't make it obvious which one it is on the back of the unit, nor do I fully understand what is meant by the low tension ignition circuit. Keen to learn, as that's one of the reasons I bought the car!

Unfortunately all wires into the unit are black, so no real help from that.I've tried switching over the two sensory wires on the alternator to no avail trying to get the warning light sorted. It's swapped from a type 1 to type 4, the size of the pins is much smaller on the type 4, so I can't get two isolated and secured connections using spades. Biggest concern is still the rev counter though...

Warning light is on constantly, though the battery is definitely charging prefectly well. Believe it's an EU2 ECU, standard rover unit though not sure how I can be certain on this (marked up MEMS MKC101830). No wiring diagrams specifically for the Stack gauge.

I have a Stack ST700 fitted to my 1.4k series, as the Caterham speedo has packed in some time ago. The engine speed (rev counter) seems to be sat at 8,000 rpm when at idle, which it definitely isn't idling at. The needle has snapped, but I'm not sure that this would cause the zero error. I've also had the Brise alternator refurbished, during which the voltage regulator was unintentionally changed from a 2 pin to 3 pin. Can anyone confirm how the Stack gauge reads the rpm, and whether this would be effected by the alternator ignition and live out feeds? At the moment these are connected by spade connectors so if this is the problem I may have to get the 3 pin wiring loom to ensure the connections. Thanks

I'm facing a similar question. Currently have 185/60/14 A048's (no longer available as road legal tyres) on the car but the tread is right on the limit (they were close when I bought the car last year). I've got no experience of the car on 'road' tyres as opposed to the semi-slicks that are currently on there. Currently weighing up between Uniroyals, Nankang NS-2R or R888s. R888/R888R's are so much more expensive though I'm unsure that they're worth the extra money, and I'll have to wait another couple of months before I have the money for them. Haven't considered using a different sized tyre on there, not sure what effect it would have on the drive. Lack of space means I can't get a spare set of wheels for the track :(

Brilliant, glad you got it sorted. The issues sounded very similar to my car. Hope you can enjoy the car over the Christmas break now!

If unplugging the stepper seems to solve the problem, you've probably found the source there. Other symptoms that my car had as well as not idling were struggling to start and the engine cutting out in the manner of the fuel supply being cut. I'm not sure if it's related but the car also used to smell as if it was burning a little rich on the odd occasions I got it running, and fuel consumption was noticeably higher. If the battery has been drained to low capacity levels at any point then it could well be damaged, which won't help the problem. Worth a quick check of voltages if you have a multimeter to hand (though this won't tell the full story on the battery state).

I was very relieved- but a bit gutted that I'd missed out on the car running for all that time when all it needed was that. Charged for a couple of hours labour which is reasonable considering it was a bit of fault finding which I haven't got the tools for. He'll have had to mess around unloading it from the trailer too. Got a multimeter at the top of my Christmas list to sort various lights out, going to make a few changes to LEDs I think.

Anyone got a pair of the mounts that allow you to fit the original door mounted wing mirrors onto the windscreen? The Caterham version of what I'm looking for is this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/mirrors/4559-sva-mirror-mount-black-anodised-2004.html Doesn't need to be the exact Caterham part, just something that fulfills the same purpose. Thanks

I've just had the same problem (1.4K Road-Sport), though it also led to some running problems earlier on too. Took the car into a local specialist who put it down to the same stepper motor. He took it apart and cleaned it up, now it's running perfectly. I had already refurbished the alternator and replaced the battery whilst I was mis-diagnosing the problem. Used to hunt at idle too but that's also fixed with the cleaned up stepper. Now starts quicker than ever on the ignition.

I have a 1996 Road-Sport, fairly standard with the 6 speed box. I have the original purchase order somewhere with the full options list (filled in for my particular car) if this is of any interest? Car externally also has carbon fibre protectors on the rear arches (I believe was standard). If there is anything else I can dig through the paperwork I have.

Haha cheers Tom. She still hasn't warmed to the car completely but she's little a bit more tolerant. Can only get better whilst the car is in storage! My new local meet is the Merseyside one so will have to catch you there at some point in the new year

SOLVED So I ended up getting the car trailered up to Phoenix in Accrington on Wednesday last week. Within half an hour of it arriving there Ollie had given it a check over and found that my car runs an older stepper motor system on the air intake. Turns out this was causing all the issues I've had with idling, starting and what I thought was fuelling. He has taken it off and given it a clean up. Car runs sweet as a nut now, did a 100 mile drive without the slightest of running issues. I've just got a couple of little electrical niggles with lights now and the stack still sometimes gives the wrong RPM (which has caused the needle to snap), but I'm now happy to say I've got a car that is running brilliantly. It even seems to be much lighter on fuel use. Ollie even gave the car a full check over saying he reckons it's in mint condition which is always satisfying to hear. Chassis looks no more than 3 or 4 years old compared to others he has seen in the past! In short, definitely recommend Phoenix Motorsport :)

That does look quite different to what I had on the old unit unfortunately. I've started looking at trying to get a recovery of the car up to Phoenix Motorsport as I'm beginning to appreciate that without a decent area to work in I'm really going to struggle to get it back running (I think the alternator is the start of the running issues).

Cheers for tip Clive, I haven't had chance to get the fuel tank open yet nor have I taken any of the lines off to check for a blockage. I'm without a garage at the moment so doing any work on the car in the evening is basically impossible with the dark evenings and no lighting. When I start at it again on Saturday I'll try and trace through this yellow wire from the IG to see if this is causing the warning light to come on. When I first removed the wires the insulation around the spades was well positioned so I'd now be surprised if these were shorting out at the terminals. Thanks for the offer Tom - the wiring was fine for the Brise unit before I refurbished it so not sure it would be suitable for the OEM alternator. I may end up taking the alternator out and swapping the voltage regulator to one with the same pin layout as my old one.

Tried reversing the 2 wires plugged in but still the warning light. When I went to start it with them reversed the car just didn't quite fire after one attempt, switched them back and still a warning light and now the battery seems to not have quite enough juice to start the car. Can't fully understand what's going on as the car jump starts OK ish but struggles on its own even with a brand new battery. I have a master battery cut off so don't think the battery is being drained when off. As the regulator before on my alternator was a type 1 connection but Brise sent me a replacement with type 4 I don't have anything on the S terminal (as there wasn't a third connection previously). Although having read the above could I not short this to the IG terminal without causing a problem? I haven't managed to trace the yellow wire, the only thing I can say is that it seems a bit thicker than the other. Am I right in thinking if I check the colour of the wire on the back of the dash going into the warning light it should match the wire colour going into the L terminal?

I've got a solid yellow into the L terminal and yellow and brown into IG. Just started the car with L disconnected, the car was very reluctant to start but did in the end. Red light remained illuminated throughout though. Could this be because the wires are in the wrong way? Also noticed my manifold is very hot after 15 seconds of running, it is a VHPD system but should it really get too hot to touch that quickly? Cheers, Ryan

Cheers Jonathan, I've had a mechanic with multimeter hel me do the alternator bits, we checked it with the old battery and it was supplying a healthy voltage after the refurbishment. One slight issue we had when refurbishing was Brise sent a regulator with a type 4 socket whereas the old unit had a type 1 (as shown here http://www.brise.co.uk/images/D/image-02.jpg) which led to using the smallest spades I've ever seen. Unfortunately I know that the multimeter has now arrived at my parents for Christmas which is up in the lakes, so I won't be getting that too much before santa comes. I'm not sure if this would be leading to the engine cutting out though, looking at the wiring diagrams for the warning light I don't see how it could even if it is shorting. I guess the problem is so open that I really need to get it into someone with a bit more knowledge and ability than myself.

All other instruments working fine, can't say for certain about all the measurements on the stack as didn't check all but the speedo still operated fine. The alternator is a Brise unit, connected by spade terminals as this is how the wires were previously. Could they be shorting between L and IG connection to cause the light on? Light comes on and stays on. Multimeter is at the top of the Christmas list after recent work, not sure how I've lasted without one for so long!

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread of mine. I've just managed to get the car running again with a new battery and refurbished alternator (bearings, brushes and voltage regulator all changed). Started the car today and - a little reluctantly - it's running. E!ven managed to drive it around 500 yards Sadly it seems to need coaxing into keeping the engine alive though, in neutral or with clutch in the car seems to want to cut out unless I lightly keep the throttle pressed. I've tried resetting the throttle position sensor using the usual set ignition and press/depress throttle 5 times to no avail. This may be an obvious problem, total novice on cars though so any help appreciated. Also since the battery change and alternator refurb I'm getting the warning light in the centre of the dash as in the image below. Also on there the Stack Gauge needle has snapped and the rev counter now sits at an obscure value which is no relation to what the engine is doing /sites/default/files/images/users/32821/medium_DSC_0072%5B149%5D.JPG Without tow bar or trailer I'm pretty stuffed for getting it to anyone with a bit more knowledge then me (breakdown cover doesn't allow for home start). Thanks all

Most of the work I've managed myself has been preservation rather than fixing, I would have had a go at this one myself had I not needed it fixed before the car goes up north for the winter. I'm sure I'll be able to make a slight detour to meet up, gives me chance for a good nosey around your car and vice versa!

Had a brief look at the TPS thread at the weekend, some symptoms sound similar but the way the car is responding doesn't seem to fit exactly to that being the problem. Having said that the hunting at idle could well be fixed by replacing the, which I might have a go at in time. Nick and Richard are great and have offered assistance on the problem earlier, after a quick email conversation with them the issue didn't come about as being obvious. Unfortunately most of my tools have been moved into storage following our house move as well so I'm thinking it's going to have to go in somewhere. I spoke to Phoenix Motorsport yesterday, the guy there seemed to know his stuff and also said it sounded like a fuel pump issue which he said he had seen a number of on K-Series with low mileages. Hoping to get it up there on Saturday when the roads are a little quieter and I can spend a bit more time chatting rather than dumping the car quickly. Don't know if you've had any experience with Phoenix Tom, they'd be fairly close to you aren't they?