RyCliff
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Everything posted by RyCliff
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I've had Nankang NS-2R on mine for the last 6 years, a combination of fast road and track use. I've not had any issues with them, including a few wet weather drives. The first set of tyres lasted about 9k miles which I thought wasn't too bad. That included around 5 track days. If I really wanted to splash out I'd go for the R888Rs, but they were well over double the price of the Nankangs.
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I've recently seen people talking about Yokohama Advan A052 tyres which have recently become available in 185/60/R14. They're fairly big money and not many reviews from Caterham drivers but look like a semi slick style tyre from the tread pattern.
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Cheers everyone, I'll take a look for the Bilt Hamber product or something similar. It's a former pool car from my dad's workplace. 110,000 motorway miles with not much attention paid to the paintwork. Hence the 5p sized holes in the paint. The good bits are plenty of towing capacity for trackdays, 60mpg and a purchase price that means I'm not fussed about adjacently parked SUVs!
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Just bought a new to me daily which has a number of 5p sized paint chips, a couple of which are started to have a bit of surface rust. In an attempt to stop them getting worse, I'm planning on sanding back the worst ones and then putting chip repair paint on. Does anyone have any thoughts on applying the ACF-50 I have for the caterham on the areas prior to applying primer?
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My daily Renaultsport Megane RS250 2012. Purchased from Renault dealership last year when I changed jobs last year. Only selling as I've been told off for getting a 3 door by SHMBO for the last 9 months. Car runs great, had cambelt done by Renault in December last year. Renault have sorted a few niggles with it so all running perfect now. Specification includes sat nav, leather seats, heated from seats, climate control, electric driver seat, auto dimming rear view mirror, 19" alloy wheels, space saver spare wheel, auto wipers, auto headlights, factory Bi-Xenon projector headlights (very good, best headlights I've ever used), stereo aux. Car is completely factory standard. Has done 50k miles and full service history. Looking for around £10.5k. Any more information wanted let me know.
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As title, looking for pair or all 4 adjustable shocks for an S3 narrow track imperial car. I'm booked for getting the car setup in 10 days so adjustable platforms dampers should allow me to get a bit more out of it. Thanks
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Original Cov Rad from my 1996 car, only removed as I fancied a Radtec. Usual marks you'd expect with a 26 year old part but no leaks when removed. Has a small ding in one of the headers as shown in the pictures. Looking for £170 + Postage or collection from South Manchester. /sites/default/files/images/users/32821/small_IMG_20220902_080151.jpg
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Just to close this one out, I managed to get hold of a thread gauge and identified the thread as an M16 X 1.5. Found a reducer on eBay down to the M12 X 1.5 of the sensor and all seems to fit well. At £10 delivered for the reducer that will teach me to check parts before throwing away! Just waiting on my Radtec radiator before I can check the sensor with a running engine. Thanks all for your help!
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GTR206 looks the same as the brown EU2 sensor Revilla references. Seems to be an M12 thread as well based on these GTR206
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Thanks Wrightpayne, yep the boss looks to be the same, will double check when I pick mine back up from Oakmere tomorrow. Interesting though as the only senders sold for the k series are all M12 threads as far as I've found but can't see an obvious reducer on yours.
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Not going too bad thanks. Managed to get a new wing from Oakmere and have had both resprayed. Had a load of leftover paint from the garage so using that to tidy the old rivnut locations up before bolting the new wings on. No further damage from what I've come across with nose cone and radiator off. Once the new rad arrives I'll be able to have a run out and check for anything unusual. There were some knocks on the drive home but given the number of cable ties holding things together I can't tell if any were to concern over!
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Mine is the same as Mechanical Moz. Looked more closely at the rail and it looks like for some reason someone had welded a slightly larger boss on then bushed it down. Once I've worked out the thread of the boss I should be away... Also need the radiator from Radtec to arrive!
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Thanks very much, looks like this is the much newer submarine arrangement. I've ended up dropping my coolant rail off with Oakmere to see if they can identify the thread. Interesting that my gauge sensor has a single wire and is earthed through the rail whereas the above has a wired earth. Presumably this gives a better reading.
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I've found a picture of the old temperature sensor on the car before I binned it. Looks like it was a much smaller thread than M12 of the replacement but with a bushing to take it down (that I've removed thinking it was part of the sensor). No luck from Redline on identifying it. I've got a Stack ST700 rev counter with temperature readout but this doesn't look like the stack sensors. Starting to tear my hair out with it now!
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Yep definitely the larger sensor Stu, 2 wire connection whereas the gauge is a single wire probe. Decided to check the new one with a caliper this morning and the thread OD is 12mm, so I guess it is correct. Hopefully a call to Chris at Redline might shed some light.
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Yep that's the one. Though just measured up the thread on the sensor I've been sent by discount mg rover spares which has a thread OD of 10mm. So either the linked page is wrong or my posted part. I'll give them a call in the morning
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Mine's a 1996, one of the Road sports so has the forward facing air inlet plenum on the opposite side to the coolant rail. I'm wondering if it was in a sensor probe pocket and I've thrown that out too. The old sensor was black but had a central locating point on the housing so I assumed it was the brown. /forum/techtalk/k-series-coolant-temperature-ecu-sensor-types-what-have-you-got this is the page I used to decipher which probe, though it says both have the same thread anyway
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Hi All, I've been a real wally and thrown away the old water temperature sensor on my k series before checking the new one fits... And the new one has a different thread to the old! New one I've got is an MEK100060, which fits in the loom but not the coolant rail (thread is smaller on the sensor). Is there a reducer I've mistakenly thrown away? Very annoyed with myself, schoolboy error. Even spent 30 minutes going through bins to no avail trying to find the old one.
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Does anyone have a RH rear wheel arch they'd be willing to part with? Colour not important as I'm intending to get them both resprayed. Ideally someone in the North West to make collection simpler. Cheers
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I've gone through the handbrake reset procedure this morning. No signs of overheating on the pads, they still look like new after 3 years or so! The clutch pedal has what looks like the original spring so I'll look at swapping that out for one that matches JVs blog post. I did a bit of looking around and spotted the other end of the clutch cable has an adjustment and lock nut on it with a rubber cover over the casing the cable enters. Took the cover off but wasn't able to see much, though I do have a little bit of oil in the bottom of there. Not a pool of it but it looks sticky so not sure if this is potentially a cause of the smell.
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This might explain the warmer feeling of the rears. No harm in me resetting the handbrake adjustment but this doesn't sound like the source of the smell. Although warmer than the fronts I could still physically touch all discs through the wheels. I do wonder if the car is able to set off in 3rd gear is a sign either my clutch isn't fully engaging or the friction plate is worn.
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Nope didn't notice the same clutch burn smell over the usual smells (no cat on the exhaust system I think causes the usual ones)
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Finally got round to a 15 minute drive out. Mostly around town so never really broke 50mph for more than a few seconds. Feeling all of the discs, there's not one that stood out as being hotter to the touch than the others. Rears felt slightly warmer than the fronts but both the same temperature, so could need a bit of adjustment on the handbrake. It's already absolutely useless the way it's set now though! I've only ever found one adjuster so I assume this does both sides.
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Hi John, updated the original post now to include the website address. They're not cheap at nearly £10 each but quite a few similar spec springs. Unfortunately not too easy to get the car on jacks. I'll go out for another drive at the next opportunity and see if the problem continues. Was almost a good excuse for a lightened flywheel too!
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Hi John, I've found product 9645 on the attached site. I can't seem to send a link to the exact product page but search 9645 in part number and it should come up. Spring constant is seems good at around 100N applied load with 20mm extension and free length is close to the 100mm of the one you purchased. They also sell them as single springs which is unusual! I haven't yet measured up the OD of the existing to make sure they're similar but will check that too before going ahead and feedback if it fits. ETA https://motioncontrol.metrol.com/tension-springs/extension-springs-with-loops.html
