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cliffy858

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Everything posted by cliffy858

  1. Second dibs on this if Phil doesn't have it.
  2. Hi Jonathan, I am referring to this part below when installing the diff into chassis. 13 Remove the upper mounting bolt (1) and refit with washer (9) under the bolt head. Centalise the differential using washers (16) and (12), as required, between the metallastic bushes and the differential. Use a further washer (9) and nyloc nut (6) on the end of the bolt. Tighten the upper mounting bolt and lower mounting bolts to 40 lbft (55 Nm). Check that the differential is central ± 2mm. Adjust if necessary. The chamfered washer is (9). They wasn't fitted on my car originally and just look like they will clamp the inner and outer metal part of the bush when tightened up.
  3. I'm am currently rebuilding my seven and installing my diff. I have purchased a new bolt pack from caterham and the build manual says that the bolts should have washer 9 which are large chamfered washers under the bolt heads. These washers were not on my car and it looks to me if they are installed they would contact the metal outer part of the bush cancelling out any benefit of having a bush there in the first place. Shall I leave them out? What's the purpose of them? Are they just to stop excessive movement should the rubber bushes fail and break up.
  4. Are there any photos of these? Do they fit on the top wishbone bolts like newer caterham items?
  5. I'm also interested in the windscreen if Mark doesn't have it.
  6. I'll take the wheels if they are dedion fitment
  7. Hi, I'll have the carb meter if you can post it. Thanks.
  8. Thanks Richard, I have just had a look under the car in the garage and I'm going to keep the Ap calipers with the auxiliary handbrake caliper setup. Once I have a bracket made up in the centre tunnel I should be able to use the existing cable that goes to the auxiliary calipers and just shorten the one that goes to the pulley if needed.The ap calipers look in good condition and as my plan with this car is to use it on track with the reason you stated it seems pointless changing them.
  9. Thanks for your replies, my car will be going to arch soon to have a new front and reskin so I guess they will be able to fabricate a bracket for my handbrake. If the Sierra calipers are no better then would i be able to use the newer style handbrake cable and center handbrake with my existing calipers. Also I want to fit a padded center consul will this fit over the existing tunnel without modification?
  10. i currently have a under the dash handbrake with 2 pot ap rear calipers and separate handbrake calipers and I want to move to a centre tunnel handbrake. What are people's thoughts on the ap rear calipers, are they worth keeping? Will the centre handbrake cable work with my existing calipers Or should I fit the Sierra calipers? Will the Sierra calipers bolt straight on to my current ears?
  11. I'll take the handbrake lever and cable if you can post, thanks, cliff.
  12. hi, I need a complete front end for my 1996 s3 including hubs, wishbones, uprights and steering rack. I've managed to track down a pair of uprights and hubs but they look slightly different to mine. Mine go into a spherical bearing on the bottom and these have some sort of swivel and what looks like grease nipple on the blurred photos. Are these off a older car? Can someone shed some light on this please?
  13. Thanks guys, im just waiting for some big boxes before I start, I am going to arm myself with my camera phone and a roll of masking tape for reference labels . I am lucky enough to have access to a hoist and balance bar. I ran the car up today on axle stands and the gearbox sounds noisy so that will require a strip down while its out I'm sure.
  14. Great job you did there and it gives me a good idea of what is involved. I want to do the same except mine also needs a long front and new front suspension do to accident damage. I see that you only reused the bonnet, Is it worth trying to save any of the aluminium panels or do they get damaged getting them off? My car needs a complete outer skin but the interior/scuttle/boot panels look ok.
  15. Yes I was going to split it to inspect the clutch and maybe fit a lightened flywheel if it doesn't already have one, Just thought it would be easier to do once it was out. I haven't yet looked at how easy the bell housing bolts are to get to but I guess there not that bad if you prefer to do it that way. Thanks.
  16. Thanks, it sounds a messy job. Does it have to come out in two pieces or do you just prefer to do it like this?
  17. Im getting ready to strip apart my 2.0vx engined car so I can send the chassis away to arch for repair, does anyone have any tips or advice on Taking a seven apart before I start? Does the engine and gearbox come out in one piece on this model or do I have to split it in the car?
  18. That's great, thanks. I was worried it may have been too low but from what you've said it looks to be spot on
  19. It's a pace cylindrical tank.
  20. Thanks, when refilling where should the level be in the tank and how should I check it, the oil in my tank seems to run back into the engine leaving the tank empty quite quickly.
  21. Hi, I have just bought a 2.0 Vauxhall engined caterham with a dry sump. I have no experience with dry sumps and want to drain the oil. Are there any guides or tips on draining and refilling or is it all straightforward and self explanatory. thanks
  22. I need one for a 2.0 Vauxhall engine but that looks very similar to mine, if you could let me know the dimensions and location of the cut out that would be great.
  23. Hi, do you know what engine was fitted? Can you tell me the measurements of where the airbox cutout is please. thanks cliff
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