Brian Deacon

Hi. Mine had a hydraulic clutch. Yours is cable operated. You should be able to adjust the clutch cable so that the top of the clutch pedal (as seen in your picture with the cable attached to it) moves backwards. This will move the foot operated part of the pedal forwards and away from your sitting position. To achieve this you will need to adjust the clutch cable outer sleeve. Not sure of the adjustment is on the front of the pedal box ( where the cable goes through) or at the clutch end on the engine. Either end should have an adjuster. Just try turning it and watch the pedal move to make sure its going in the right direction. When you get the brake and clutch pedals aligned make sure you still get enough clutch pedal travel to disengage the clutch. You can also adjust the brake pedal by moving the two nuts along the threaded shaft, shown gold colored in the picture. Again when you have a comfortable pedal position enure that you are getting full braking without the pedal hitting the bulkhead. Hope all that makes sense?

With the 48 LED strip fitted and a full hood on do you get a lot of red glare inside ? I have been looking at fitting an LED strip on top of the spare wheel but not sorted it yet.

Hi. Ok great. No rush. I am in Ireland next week until the 7th. Will message you ref payment. Brian

Help... want a shower cap for S3.

Ok. Thanks. Its an EU2. Would the alternator and starter be the same as an EU3?

1997 Supersport with a K Series 1.6. I have been looking at various spare parts, alternator, starter, coil pack etc. There is a starter on ebay which says for EU3 engine. How do I know if mine is EU3 or 2 or even some other variant??

1.6 K series, wide track front, disks all round. It ticks nearly all my wants. Having the floor lowered at Classics and Sevens, should be collecting at the weekend. Picture on my profile. Cannot wait.

If the pedal pivot is in the forward position you can still adjust the brake and clutch master cylinder operating rods to get the pedals at more of a straight down angle, i.e. further from the seat. This made a big difference for me. Take off the pedal box cover. lengthen the brake and clutch push rods. Making sure that in the final position you still get full travel on the pedal without hitting the bulkhead. I gained an inch which is like moving the seat back an inch, straightens your legs and moves them away from the wheel. But make sure you do not adjust to far and then get restricted pedal movement by the pedal hitting the bulkhead.

As they say , there is no harm in asking! Anybody have a half hood and or shower cap they want to part with? Roadsport with FIA roll bar.

Purchase now complete. Cannot wait for collection day. Great service from Sevens and Classics.

Looking for Caterham with 14K budget, may stretch a bit for the right car/ SV. Looking at mainly touring and only occasional track. Must haves. 140bhp, 5 speed, leather seats, removable steering wheel, heater, heated screen, spare wheel, center handbrake. Full weather. Prefer not to have crossflow, Ital axle or green! If you thinking of selling soon then let me know.

Anybody have a spare lambda sensor blanking plug. I know its a small item but they seem to be about £4 new, and I had two in the garage but cannot find them. Only need one.

Changed the oil, using tube and syringe, bit messy but not a problem. The fill hole on the gearbox aligns with a chassis tube so unable to cut a hole through. Pouring with rain so unable to see if it has made any difference. Will wait for the sun to come out!

Just looked at access to the top cover plate, not easy as you said. Maybe I will try sucking through the fill hole. Bit hit and miss as to where the end of the suction tube ends up but should be able to get most oil out. Job for tomorrow morning, will look forward to it!

Just realized there is no drain plug ! Whats best method to drain? Propshaft off and jack front on car up, or take top of gearbox off and use syringe to suck oil out?

Thanks for all the info. Not as worrying now as when I first heard it! Have just checked the gearbox oil level and the oil in there is "redish" so maybe the Ford ATF. I will drain and fill with Comma 80w90 and see what effect it has.

Hi. Zetec engine and five speed box. Recently adjusted idle from high (1200) to more suitable 800 rpm. Now find that I have a loud knocking noise from the rear of the engine or maybe the gearbox. It stops when either the clutch pedal is pressed or the revs are increased. I suspect this is the gearbox, maybe the idler shaft bearings. Any ideas?

Box, wiring and various bits and pieces now removed. Makes the engine bay look a lot tidier. Has made no difference to starting or running.

Working ok now. Only seems to stick when the battery is really low. Will see how it goes. If it fails again then overhaul sounds good.

Finish refitting the diff, bled the brakes, adjusted the brake and clutch pedals. All going fine until I tried to start her for a run. Starter jammed in, took several minutes to undo the battery terminal and burnt fingers in the process. The pre engage solenoid appears to be sticking. Suspect there is no easy fix, but buy a new starter?

When looking to buy a car I had avoided the Tillet seats thinking they would be uncomfortable for touring. The budget will certainly not run to one now. With a lowered floor and the pedals adjusted that should give the small amount of extra room I need. Should have the diff back this weekend and can then get the brakes refitted and bled, will then look at the pedal positions as described. Thanks for all the advice.

Lowered floor will be on my list. So the pedal pivot is not moved forward, but the pedal travel stops used to push the pedals forwards and then adjust at master cylinders?

Brake system empty at the moment so cannot check brake pedal travel, but thats a good point and will check when I can.

I am finding the seating position a bit of a challenge, and need as much length as possible. Do not want to waste time on an issue which I am sure has been tackled many times before. Pedals. I have two pedal positions (Metric chassis?) and the pedals are in the forward position. Is there anyway of moving them further forward by modifying the attachments? My seat is at its furthest rearwards (leather seat). The limiting factor is the bottom of the seat back hitting the chassis bar at the rear of the cockpit. Raising the seat runners about 1cm lets the seat bar come over the chassis bar but only gains about 1cm backwards before the seat back hits the bulkhead. I am considering lowering the floor (when CC have them in stock), but if the seat runners are lower then due to the angle of the seat back it looks like the seat will have to move forward because of the chassis bar. Hope that makes sense. Any experience on the best options?

The car came from Uk Sports in Canterbury, doubt if they would know. I have written to the previous owner but understan he has moved to France. May get the letter forwarded though.