ScottR400D

No point having an adjustable oil cooler blind. There’s no need for a cooler on the road and it’s a few minutes work to remove a fixed blind for track use. 
 

I should think there are several people that could provide a map. At least as good but likely better than CC. 
 

"they are the ones who understand this setup of the engine"

I doubt that. 

#40. Exactly this. And even if it were a significant risk it would be easy to guard against without disconnecting. 
 

#30 just where has a 'legitimate reason been established'? 

#20. You'd still need recovery back to the pits if in the gravel to that extent. 

As for the debris damaging the speedo cable/sensor, "what are the chances of that?" as Harry Hill might say. 

After 9 years with regular TDs, it's never crossed my mind  

Anyway, maybe the OP will enlighten us? 
 

#14. Not heard that before and seems extremely unlikely. In fact I can't imagine how that sort of damage could be done on track without the car being in a state which would need recovery in any case.

Seems a pointless exercise and I suspect the OP knows that but for some reason is ignoring it. 

I think the outer layers get hotter quicker than the core. The process needs to be very carefully controlled to be successful. 

It's widely used for all sorts of shafts especially drive shafts. 

On further thought I think that's just a dodgy friction weld. Looks like it's only actually welded on the outer circumference rather than across the piece. 

To be honest that looks like a friction weld and I wouldn't be surprised if it's not a more widespread process that we might think. 

I'm not sure why anyone would opt for that method but I very much doubt it's a one off. It might be to achieve different properties in different parts of the shaft. It's certainly used quite a bit with driveshafts. 

"OEM customers face daily challenges of material pricing vs. product performance, causing pump shaft manufacturing to become more expensive as raw material cost increases occur.

To reduce manufacturing costs, many customers have started using friction welding as an efficient option for production cost reduction.

Friction welded shafts are produced when multiple parts are pressed together through a precise rotating movement. This high speed movement creates friction that results in elevated temperature levels. The heat enables both parts to achieve a plastic like state that forges the parts together into a permanent connection.

The actual friction welded shafts require very unique technology that incorporates state of the art monitoring controls. This process is used on specific applications only.

Advantages of Friction Welded shaft manufacturing

– Friction welding allows OEMs the ability to use composite pieces rather than one piece shafts
– Versatility for customers can select the best materials for an application without concern on raw material or solid bar stock costs.
– Up to a 66% cost reduction versus traditional shaft manufacturing".

Yes, open diff. Lucky you!! 

I know some folks swear by that oil but I tried it, a couple of Redline grades and Caterham's recommended Motul and didn't see any difference at all in noise, smoothness or running temperature. When I replaced the Titan with the Tracsport I tried it again with the same result though that makes more sense in that SPC recommend 'any decent 80/90 GL5'.

I'm fairly reliably informed that the key difference is that the RRT has more friction modifiers than usual to stop the Titan locking too much and wearing out. I stand to be corrected.  

Drakman is right. I just looked at the one in my earlier image, which is a:spare, and it's got '3.64 LSD' in white marker pen on the underside. 

Perhaps better:

The whining and chatter happen regardless of the LS. 
There's a label on the diff which if still there might indicate LSD or not. Zoom in on attached. Good luck in getting to it!

Yes, it can. I have a Pela with a standard tube. Car on stands, feed tube up past DD into diff and stand pump and vessel behind car. You can get just about everything out. 

The book used to say 1.2 L which was close to the fill level. It was changed because of leaks from the drive shafts. It seemed that some diffs never leaked. Some always leaked. 
I've not heard of fill plug leaks nor from the backplate sealant, there's no gasket as such. 
 

Favourite would be a shaft but anything's possible. Unless it's massively overfilled that's unlikely to be the cause. I ran mine with 1.2L for years with no issues.  
 

"I did pose the question as to when a 12v socket is fitted to the car why is it put where no-one can get to it. Because very few people use it was the response.  If you cannot get to it easily you wont use it I said."

You couldn't make it up......... 

My car has a 6. It isn't a good long distance cruiser though bearable IMO. 70 is about 3800 rpm. 

Having driven a few 5 speed though, I wouldn't want to change. I love the 'One first and five second gears feel and find it massively better on a track. I too found the 5 speed a little 'flat'. 

For long distance cruising, which I don't do in the 7, I'm sure the 5 would be better 

From the OP description a change of final drive might help. 

#8 you'd think after all these years whoever fits the pumps in the tanks at the factory would have twigged that one! 

#4 Mine does that. On the red, drive for miles and till only get 26/7 litres in an SV. 

They might as well just fit a dipstick. 

Have things changed? I thought the collapsible mechanism was standard on all 7s in the clamp mechanism at the join between the upper and lower columns. 

Ah, yes, my mistake. I'm surprised it would even leak from there as opposed to just run down to the front of the bell housing and come out there. A spill seems more of a possibility now.

The only time I've seen oil leaking from between the bell housing and block is when the RMS has failed. IME that's not uncommon with a Sigma but is uncommon with a Duratec. 
 

"I did raise the subject of inspection with George (their Eng Man), explained that mine had been visually inspected and given a clean bill of health by the supplying dealer a few weeks prior (one failed completely and the other was cracked when they were changed)."

Best point made in this thread. 

Inspecting the components, even if it's possible in situ, doesn't mean they won't crack and fail soon after. 

There's a lot of circumstantial evidence to show that these parts aren't up to the job and will fail sooner or later. 

The only safe way to proceed is to change for an uprated product. IMO.