ScottR400D

2 hours ago, mph said:

Old topic — but, how much oil does the 6sp gearbox take? Does one just fill it until it spill out of the side-access fill port?

Thanks folks!

Yes. 

“The noise is more akin to a large marble running around a corrugated tube for a short while.”

That sounds like a chatter to me and exactly what we’re talking about!

As you say, slight change in throttle it goes and will return in different gears at different rpm depending on loading but is easy to manage  

54 minutes ago, Geoff Brown said:

With a hot car, in neutral the idler gear does chatter in both Type 9 & Caterham 6 speed. Depressing the clutch kills the noise. Also adjusting tick over to 1000rpm or a tad more creates silence. Not sure that the noise is same in Mazda box ?

 

I don’t think we’re talking about that Geoff. This is the distinct chatter a lot of us get on light overrun almost regardless of engine/box combination and it happens in different gears. 
I’ve discussed at length with both RRT and SPC and it seems accepted that it’s the CWP though RRT will say it might be something to do with the engine tilt while Steve Perks is convinced it’s to do with light flywheels and during pulses. I go with the latter. 
As I said, it’s easy to manage and I don’t think many see it as a real issue. 

“have a year 2000 1800 K-series Roadsport which has spent the winter resting attached to an Optimate 2 battery conditioner”

Better to isolate/disconnect than leave on any charger all winter. 

Your first paragraph makes an incorrect assumption. The chatter, which is very very common, can be excited by the engine but actually emanate from the diff (CWP). Its frequency roughly corresponds with engine speed but it’s the diff.

I think most of us find it easy to manage by adjusting the throttle slightly or changing gear. 

1 minute ago, KnifeySpoony said:

Ah Ok, I thought you were criticizing my solution. You can the see OEM routing is bad and the hose is under some tension to make the bend back to radiator inlet. The inlet pipe is angled coming out of the rad, presumably to address this, but didn't work well. That combined with the super stiff hose and vibrations must be contributing to failures. Hence my silicone hose.

It’s just typical, poor CC ‘engineering’ with the usual disregard for its customers. 
There is a lot of history about this ‘development’, most of it bad. Failing radiators, noses that wouldn’t fit, ugly looking installations, Radtech must have done brilliantly from it all!

2 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said:

Here is the standard setup with original hose.

 

 

No that’s the bodge up. Original hose with ‘new’ badly fitting radiator. it looks equally as uncomfortable as yours and is almost certainly putting pressure in the radiator. 
 

Just now, KnifeySpoony said:

It looks like you have a different radiator and different mounting setup. Also is your car an SV? 

It’s an SV but that makes no difference. Yes the radiator is the one that the hose and all the assembly was designed for and was used with much less trouble (though quality was never good) for years. 
 

What you have is another CC money saving bodge. Change the radiator to keep stock levels down and use the ‘racing’ one but don’t redesign the  hose just leave customers to bodge it up. 
 

1 hour ago, KnifeySpoony said:

Because of the bend in the hose, it does ride up over the catch can a bit. I thought that might make it harder to bleed but I had no issue. And because the hose is so much more flexible, I can actually just move it over to remove the catch can. Previously I had to suck out the oil, because the old hose trapped it.

To be honest that looks terrible. 
 

This is how the hose used to fit:

You think the move makes a difference? As Nigel said and I can confirm it’s always been the same. 
In 2014 I had a driveshaft, various brake and cooling bits missing. 
 

‘‘Twas ever thus! 

15 minutes ago, Chris SSR400 said:

Mines incredibly noisy (looking at you Titan LSD!) but back when I purchased a 7 the one bit of advice that stuck with me was expect everything to constantly sound like its broken.. 🤣

Of course this doesn't stop me over thinking every sound and over checking everything all the time.

The more 'race car' you go the more you have to expect the rawness.

A reasonable comment IMO. As long as you can stand the noise. We all wear ear plugs don’t we? 

1 hour ago, JAL73 said:

yes, new engine mounts and gearbox mounts, and new Redline diff oil as recommended by Road&RaceTransmissions. 

Was out in a friends roadsport which has a 2L duratec with 420 cams but not lightened flywheel. It has a ford 5 speed box (doesnt touch tunnel walls) and open BMW diff. That car had almost no NVH, no chattering on over run, silky smooth and very fast. 

The lightened flywheel is the root of the chattering and the open diff the rest of the solution. 
Thats a good road setup, might be a little limited on track. 

I’d be thinking about why it’s like that too. My car is 9 yo and doesn’t have anything like that. All I’ve ever done is keep dry, wipe over with WD and put Helicopter tape on the forward looking surfaces. 
This is last year: The white dots on the wing support are the edge of the HT  

5 hours ago, Nigel B said:

Hi Peter!

You’d have hoped they’d have sorted out an appropriate replacement by now. I suppose the key thing is to ensure there’s no tension transferred to the outlet pipe (or is it the inlet pipe?).

 I hope you’re doing well. 👍

Not too bad Nigel. Had a few health things but hopefully getting there. 
Haven't used 7 this year yet. Came to it in spring to find a rear leaky damper so I’ve got a set of Nitrons being fitted just now, flat floor,  MOT etc 
Hopefully back in a couple of days or so but not sure when I’ll be able to drive it but my son will be having it away to Silverstone if I can’t!  To be fair he paid for the Nitrons so I can’t complain!

I hope you’re well? 

CWP noise is down to the CWP nothing to do with the LSD, it’s just set wrong. 
Yes theoretically the LSD shouldn’t make a noise in a straight line but the slightest cornering will have it protesting. Mine certainly made all sorts of noises going ostensibly straight. But then in hindsight I think mine was basically FUBAR at just 4/5k miles. 
In contrast I can’t detect any LSD noise from the Tracsport. I get the CWP overrun chatter which most of us do but no CWP whine or any other noise from the diff. 


. 

Hi Nigel. The top hose they use was designed for the original radiator set up as you and I have, I think. 
For that set up it fitted well,  now it’s a poor fit all round. 
I’ve seen several efforts to get it to fit with cable ties etc.  

As long as you have a Titan LSD in there, which being a 420R I assume you have (you’ve avoided confirming every time I’ve asked) you’re never going to get even reasonable ‘NVH’. 
The thing is the diff is bolted pretty solidly to the chassis. From it emanates all sorts of grunting, harshness and vibration. The engine and box are pretty closely coupled too so there’s little chance of refinement of any level. 
The angular alignment is a complete red herring flashed about to distract from the real issues. 
I've driven and experienced several 7s with the Titan diff and of course the Tracsport which was my final resolution. I never found one that was acceptable in terms of noise and harshness until the Tracsport was fitted. 
 

In all honesty I’d get someone who really knows what they’re doing to sort this. Just guessing rarely works out. 

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

So you were not missing the spacer then, but the gearbox mount was bent ?

I'm not sure how you can move the gearbox, its not like the holes in the chassis, mount or gearbox are slotted.

 

I think you can occasionally lever it against the mounts and tighten up and hope it stays. As you imply though, something will be stressed. 
 

I’m still far from convinced it’s relevant. 

9 hours ago, Rex said:

My sump used to scrape and occasionally the car  would bottom out. I got coil-overs for  the front and cranked them as high as they would go. No more scraping-no more bottoming out.

That sounds a logical way to go………….. 

Fair enough. I hope this is warranty stuff? 

So no enlightenment from HWM? 

Almost 10 years since they stopped recommending butchering the chassis yet they still haven’t sorted the fasteners……..

Still waiting for HWMs words of wisdom.