Nick Berry

Tried that but it said it was too old or had been moved.

That should have been Tony Weale, but I couldn't edit it.

From the Tony Weaker Lotus Seven book.

PM sent

I was planning on making one after loosing patience with the full hood - this post just gave me the extra nudge I needed. Having no skills or experience in this area I'm not sure how best to make the pattern. Perhaps use the full hood as a template? Any tips would be great. I'm going with the material already recommended. Thanks, Nick

PM sent

Hello, yes please, I'd be very happy to take that. PM sent. Nick

Heading from Westley to the A14 J42, Bury St Edmunds today - lovely!

In the end I just slid the 'clip' off the original blade, onto the new one and drilled a hole to take a M2.5 stainless cap head screw and nut with a dab of threadlock. Next time - if there is one - I'll get longer blades and cut down to suit.

Perhaps I should have bought the (longer) SV blades and trimmed down to suit?

Just received a pair or standard blades from Chris at Redline but the pivot is in the middle and the originals from 1997 are offset. The new ones won't work. Am I missing something or was the design of the blade/wipe arm changed at some point? I can modify without too much trouble, but thought I'd ask before reaching for the tool box.

Coloured gel coat - at least my BRG ones are. With the right light, you can see the brush strokes, along with all the star cracks.

Hello Paul, I'd like one, please (provided I can get to you or arrange collection). I'm still on my original 1997 tube. No outward signs of cracking, but that doesn't mean it's not about to let go. I presume it's the same buttress and damper mounting design. Thanks Nick

Hi Dave, PM sent.

Would love a red Supersport one! PM me if you still have one. Thanks, Nick

I'm in the market for a system if considering a (small) bulk buy. I missed the boat a while back on the Powerspeed. My main driver to change from the original 1997 standard K-series system is noise. I hear that Raceco silencers have a good reputation, if not the cheapest. Any suggestions on sourcing a whole 4-2-1 system (non-cat as pre-SVA) would be very welcome. Thanks, Nick

I reconditioned both calipers when one of the pistons stuck. Not too difficult and not expensive to do (although one caliper did need to be split to get a seized piston out). Used some red rubber grease under the dust covers to help combat new corrosion. Changed to Mintex M1144 pads from standard at the same time and new flexible lines as well. I looked at using new replacement calipers too but these lacked the quality of the original Girling ones - at least to look at. Checked for any run-out on the discs after cooking one of them but they were fine. Another narrow escape from that upgraditis path.

Grumpy, Got you paper slip on the windscreen at the weekend. Rain Expert 3 (185/60 R14) pros: cheap as chips (Camskill), soft/grippy as normal tyres go, non-directional (have spare) cons: soft side walls (running higher than normal pressure at 22psi to see what difference if any that makes) conclusion: happy, it's horses for courses - I don't want/need lots of grip given the type of use (relaxed road) and power available (std. 1.6 K) Given the price and your posts, I'd be tempted to give them a go if i were you. I will be interested to see how they perform on a track day though. Anyone have any experience here? Regards Nick

I had a very similar situation with my 1997 1.6K last year after an lay-up of a few years. All was fine for the first few starts then had problems with starting and idle, with cutting out too. So in ine with the usual forum advice I methodically checked/replaced/reset/cleaned all the usual suspects, hoses and connections, including the injectors, temperature sensor, MFU relays, crank position sensor, TPS, IACV, plugs, HT leads, cap and rotor arm... the list goes on. Still no joy so I tried an engine diagnostic app on an Android phone with a (slightly) modified serial adapter. This showed strange things going on with the ignition timing but other parameters looked OK - enough to prompt a change of ECU. With the new ECU in place all the problems were immediately resolved. (I did not push my luck by putting the original ECU back to confirm.) So in my case the issue almost certainly sat with an ECU that had gone bad in some way. This was the one item I felt sure would not be the problem at the outset. I have no idea if your issue may be ECU related or not but thought it worth relating my "surely that can't be the problem" story. Nick

I need the same and this is the best I've found so far (but not ordered yet): http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84398-hp-builders-kit-12-id-x-2ft-roll.aspx Nick

Hi, I've recently changed mine (1996 model year) after speaking to Redline. They supplied ones that could (with a bit of enthusiastic pushing) be slipped over the existing cans. They weren't expensive, seem to do the job and are much better than the split type by all accounts. I didn't buy a fitting cone but made something that worked from an old plastic funnel! I can dig out the QH part number if required - I think these are pretty easy to source, unlike the original Ford items that come with the cans. Regards Nick

Hello again, I'd also like 1. New Aluminum K Series Throttle Body 48mm - £10 I'm assuming this is complete with the TPS fitted, as is the norm. Thanks Nick

Hi, I'd like 15. Rover MEMS + 5AS + Blipper. - £20 (I'm having an 'interesting' time diagnosing a running issue and it would be good to try an alternate ECU etc.) Thanks Nick

Oily, I'd like one - if they're available soon. Thanks