griffchris

Just finished my 420R and mine came out at around 130 hours all in - complete novice, planned well in advance but I was in no rush - I'm not going to get much chance to use it until the spring!

Yes could do and I may end up just doing this, I suppose the issue might be that there could be an appreciable amount of friction on the cam lobes and other engine parts whilst the engine is turning and oil pressure is building, before oil flow has reached all areas. It might be nice if you could get the oil pumping and oil flow around the engine before turning the engine over - hence my question. Searching through the archives, it is mentioned a few times, often in relation to the K-series, but exactly how it is done isn't described.

Hi, I'm planning the 1st start on my 420R build (dry sump Duratec) in the next few days, and have been researching my "strategy". I have seen/heard mention of the possibility of spinning up the dry sump oil pump by hand/by electric drill to circulate oil around the engine to make those first few seconds a bt easier on the components. (I will be turning over the engine on the starter to generate oil pressure having removed the spark plugs and immobiliser feed as well, but thought spinning the oil pump in advance of this might be a good idea). I appreciate this might seem like overkill to some! My question is, how do I actually turn the oil pump? I believe this is the Raceline dry sump with internal pump. If it's going to be particularly "tricky" I'll just give it a miss. (Although I've managed the build fine I am a bit of a mechanical numpty). Any advice appreciated. Thanks Chris

I'm finishing off my 420r build now, my best advice would be to scrutinise as many recent build blogs as you can find e.g. Andrew Bissell, Daniel French, Caterham Capers, LawrenceR - these will tend to pick out most of the unexpected challenges that aren't mentioned in the manual. I got the Caterham Draper toolkit which is good if a little expensive - also try to predict all the other little bits and pieces you might need in advance - far too many to list here but things like a supply of spare bolts, nuts and washers, plastic tubing and funnels for fluids, heat shrink, paint pen for marking bolts etc etc etc.

Hang on a sec, now you come to mention it............(runs off to check) ;) P.S Genuinely, you might be on to something there, as the bottom bolts were quite hard work, and I probably spent a good 1 to 2 hours getting these lined up and shimmed.......

I'm right at the end of my build now, installed the diff 2 or 3 weeks back and to my surprise the diff top bolt slid straight in without even a tickle from a rubber mallet. Not wishing to gloat but I feel like I have missed out on a time-honoured rite of passage.......

The manual says 34Nm* Chris *The manual NEVER lies, honest.

Congratulations, and great colour choice! I've had my 420R kit about 6 weeks, on the final stretch, just interior, rear arches, fluids, IVA bits and 1st start to go. I have a lingering sense of guilt each time I email/phone Derek, but in fairness that's what he's there for, we wouldn't have to bother him half as much if Caterham bothered to update the build manual etc. Even so, i think I'll probably post him out few bottles of wine or similar when I'm done (not sure flowers would go down so well). I'll keep an eye out for your posts. Chris

Thanks Andrew, looking at your photo is does look like I've got the LHD cover as it is the mirror image of yours, and therefore definitely won't fit. Derek to the rescue I hope. Chris P.S. I should say that I know your blog very well, and it has been very helpful over the last few weeks, have a virtual pint on me ;)

Ha ha, very tempted to leave it off as you say, the only problem is the 12v socket is mounted into it.

Bit of headscratching going on, I can't make this fit as is, and there is no mention of this in the manual: The fusebox cover I have is labelled as LHD, but appears to match the photo for the RHD fusebox on the Caterham parts website. At the moment the wiring loom going into the fusebox is in the way of fitting it even if it is the right part, it is possible this could be negotiated if I cut away the existing cable ties that Caterham secured the wiring with, have others had to do this? And once(if) in place, how is this secured, is it riveted to the bulkhead??? Can I rivet the knee panel in place while I await a solution, or does the fusebox cover need fitting first? Thanks for any wisdom Chris

Brilliant, thanks

Quickie - this isn' mentioned in the manual, presumably slather it in grease and just slide it in? Thanks Chris

With the above in mind, does anyone have any suggstions about 1st installation of the lambda sensor to ensure it will come out again in the future i.e. copaslip etc - might this be a big no no due to the heat???

Agreed, I'm a week or two ahead of you on a 420R build, haven't found anything yet that isn't reachable with a combination of extension/wobble bars, crows feet wrenches, socket UJs and ball ended allen key driver. I have to say i've also found a low range torque wrench useful, lots of fixings between 10 and 20 nm which are difficult to do accurately with a big range torque wrench.

Yep sorted now thanks, some of the powder coat was a bit lumpy inside the cups, gave it a good dremel, and now it fits like a dream Thanks Chris

There is a narrow channel around the perimeter of each equator(?) of each plastic ball. I don't think I put enough grease on to be the cause, infact at first I put grease onto the balls only, and none into the cups, but I'll give it a go anyway, thanks for the suggestion.

I'm struggling, I have the plastic balls on the ends of the ARB positioned on/in the "cups" - approximately half of each ball is within the cup, and half the ball sits proud - is this correct - or should the whole ball be inside the cup? I have greased and pushed and shoved but it ain't going any further, I don't think! However, with the balls as they are now, the horizontal middle section of the ARB sits so far proud of the front of the chassis there is no way the securing bolts can reach the captive nuts on the ARB brackets. I am wondering whether the "balls" are too big for the cups - are different sizes available? Just thought I would ask to save me scratching my head all weekend. No smirking at the back. Chris

The Duratec/6sp instructions for connecting the bellhousing to gearbox, p72 current guide are as follows, and seem straightforward: Duratec: Do not remove bell-housing, smear silicone sealant over the O ring and place around the selector rod. Using 4 M10x35 bolts with spring and plain washers supplied in the gearbox pack bolt from the outside and torque to 35Nm. My concern is bellhousing to engine, this was preattached, and according to Derek does not require any additional "work" - however I was a little concerned by the obviously loose bolt and lack of washers as per above. In addition there is the section referred to above by John Vine, from p75, which clearly describes the use of spring washers, though as with many parts of the guide it isn't entirely clear whether this refers to all engine/gearbox variants - though there is specifically a separate section for the "new" 5 speed gearbox. For obvious reasons I'm keen to be absolutely sure I've got this right before the engine goes in. Chris

Thanks John, I'd read that paragraph but I wasn't clear that this necessarily applied to the Duratec/6sp. I had a verbal conversation with Derek on Friday, but I think I will send an email to ask for further confirmation. Can any current/recent builders shed any light on this? Thanks Chris

As per the title, I'm getting stuck into my 420R (R400) build. The engine is supplied with the bellhousing attached, and according to Caterham it does not need to be removed and is supplied correctly bolted and torqued. However, one of the bellhousing to engine bolts is completely loose, and there are no washers on any of the bolts, apart from spring washers on the 2 rearward facing bolts on the righthand side. I have phoned Caterham and they say this is correct (apart from the loose bolt), but before the engine and gearbox go into the car at the end of the week, I'd just like to double check that other Duratec 6sp combos have been fixed without washers? Thanks Chris

Very interesting and thanks for the replies, quite some variation between Lawrence's 8 and Mark's 150. I'll definitely talk it over with Caterham.

Glad to hear it's running well Simon. Apologies if my post came across as critical of your running in process, that wasn't my intention, I think I'm just trying to justify to myself why I'm concerning myself about this when there will undoubtedly be a lot of bigger hurdles/crises in the way before I get to this point! Chris

Wow, 100 miles is quite a bit! - presumably the majority of that must be driving to and from the IVA (x2)? I wonder if getting them to "van" it there is an option? I know this might seem a bit OCD but if I'm going to build the thing I feel like I'd like to make sure it's run-in in the best possible way. I guess a phone call to Caterham is in order when I get a bit closer to the time......

I am metaphorically pacing up and down, wishing away the next 3 weeks or so until my 420R self build kit arrives, with many queries randomly popping up in my brain, often in the dead of night. Today's obsession is this: I've been thinking and reading a fair bit about the engine running in period, and there is a substantial school of thought that the engine needs to be run hard (but not over-revved) for the first 20 to 50 miles to ensure good sealing of the piston rings. Assuming I make it that far, the engine will be started towards the end of the build to check there are no fluid leaks, fans work etc, but then it will be packed off to Caterham South for PBC and I will asking them to IVA it as well. I understand Caterham will test drive it (to bed the brakes in as much as anything), but I was wondering what kind of mileage they will be putting on it in this whole process (do they drive it to the IVA test centre and back?), as (if you subscribe to this school of thought) these first few miles are so important. I had wondered whether trying to get a few sneaky miles on to it before it goes to PBC/IVA might be worthwhile, on a private facility/road of course, but this might be a bit OTT....... Thanks Chris