mark_w
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Everything posted by mark_w
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did this recently on mine as looked like they were only engaging 8 mm . got them from caterham parts here . thread diameter about 12 mm so 18mm needed on the 1.5 x dia rule
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Still got my final wiring but i think i'm all ok with what i need to do, good point about the oil pressure light Paul, probably more important to him with what he was doing. Just a big thanks to you all especially Paul And Jonathan for sticking with me and explaining so well what i needed to do. Brilliant advert for the club Mark
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yes all very strange the way the car is set up at the moment I Know the car was used in hill climbing and stored with a trickle charger so maybe that was enough for a weekends event and was sorned for the last few years plus my original fault was too much voltage which eventually ruined my battery but maybe maintained the battery before the voltage got too high , but i would have thought it should have worked before these faults developed. i have spoke to stack today and they say ignition warning light is not displayed on the stack unit so i think probably drill and fit a new light in the dash and get out and enjoy the car
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No still not found a dash light just the taped over br / yw wire connector under the dash . Couple of connectors with green wires which I assume are for heater as that's not on the car.
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Running the dummy wire has worked a treat and proved the alternator is working as it should, showing 14.3v on the dash and across the battery terminals. So tracing the brown yellow wire (is there only one br/yw wire on the car?) from the grey plug to under the dash have found the wire disconnected and taped over! So now to the green wire to No2 fuse (instruments heater) there are a couple of these free under the dash is it a case of connecting the dash bulb between br/yw and one of the green connectors to complete the circuit . Are we nearly there Mark
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ok Paul thanks. it was built with the stack dash, will report back my findings Mark
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Not had chance to check anything tonight , but got a 1.2w dash light for my dummy wire connection so thinking one end to alternator through bulb to No2 fuse green wire side, do I need to disconnect the existing wire to this fuse? I'm thinking now that the ignition light will be on the stack display as only got the oil pressure warning, indicator and full beam lights on the dash. Mark
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The orange light has checked out as oil pressure warning light , have run the check you suggested Paul on the disconnected brown yellow wire and got a very unstable mV reading but not the +12v we were looking for, checked the wire from the alternator to the grey plug and read ok , now strangely I don't have an ignition warning light , it's got a stack dash if that makes any difference, also couldn't locate the ignition fuse in the main fuse block but looking here could it be fuse 2
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Not sure if its worked correctly previously as ive only had the car a few months and it was sorned for a few years before I bought it but I suspect it had the original problem charging too high a voltage when I got it . Will try your earth wire suggestion but if that shows no improvement I think your right and its got to come back out for a retest. Thanks Mark
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Thanks Jonathan will check this out tomorrow
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So right back to basics here, I have a large orange light on the dash next to the starter button which comes on when the key is turned goes off when the engine is running is this ignition light or low oil pressure warning light , I'm not sure now starting to question myself .. Mark
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Engine not running voltage read 13v, with engine running its 12.5v same across battery and on dash. Just to check for school boy errors on the way I have it wired the 2 terminals on the alternator are B+ which is the larger threaded terminal large brown wire, D+ which is the smaller with the brown yellow wire. I had it checked at an alternator and starter motor specialist and he had the proper equipment to spin it up and check which has got me thinking I have made some silly mistake refitting it.
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Yes still the same alternator http://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/73414%20Engine%20Harness%20K-seriesR3_4_5.pdf. Is the diagram I have looked at and it only has the thick brown and thin brown yellow wire , looking at the thick brown connection to the starter the metal eye connector feels very fatigued as if its going to break so I will get that sorted . And didn't have any spare connections inside and it did check ok on the bench test
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Yes ignition light comes on then goes off when running . Going to have to check the wiring tomorrow as seems I may have missed a wire thanks for your help Paul
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Two wires one thick and one thin both look brown
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Have now got a new problem where having re fitted the alternator I now find that it's not charging the battery with the voltage showing 12.4 haven't driven the car but have revved it but no change to the voltage. I did get the alternator bench tested before I re fitted and that showed around 14v. So would welcome any ideas as to what I should try next...thanks Mark
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I'm going to have to do my exhaust soon and was thinking of using acousta-fil sounds easy to fit as it expands in use and their website has a calculator to work out how much you need. search on here brings up some threads on the stuff. Mark
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Where's the best place to order a new battery from?
mark_w replied to Wight Skipper's topic in TechTalk
Bought on 2 separate occasions powervamp odyssey PC680 from them through eBay recently and both arrived next day -
Thanks for the recomendations there , had to remove the exhaust and primaries apollo hose and the ali alternator bracket to get it out . i have got a voltage regulator coming in the post now so hoping that will solve my problem . Would like to get it bench tested before re fitting if anyone know of any in the Essex area? Mark
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for the 18th for me
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Got the engine running and the voltage was reading 20v . So out with the alternator at the weekend for checks . I haven't had the car too long but i believe it's got an R500 pulley So i'm thinking its ok in the way it's set up. Mark
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Paul thanks for the advice. especially about disconnecting the battery
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Nice finish looks like it could be Alocrom 1200, done with chemicals i think. Mark
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its a 1900K and this alternator was thinking i maybe able to replace the regulator without removing the whole alternator, Peoples thoughts on this welcome (good / bad idea). But failing that might just get the whole thing out at the weekend once i've run the voltage check but yes going to have a go with one of the old batteries or start with the new one on jump leads and disconnect quickly. woodauto dont have the regulator in stock and haven't got back to me on when they can supply but found this RTM152B regulator on sale in germany on Ebay. is there any other good uk suppliers of parts ? Also thought of a recon alternator but would probably prefer to repar the one i have if possible thanks Mark
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alternator test
