Stridey

Couldn't see a cable, so lifted the heater off, 4 screws and fashioned 3 blanking plates out of cardboard and re-fitted. Without wanting to tempt fate I hope I do t need the heater for a few months anyway.

Cheers! Ill have a hunt!

OK, I know it's been hot today, over the weekend, but cabin temp seems higher than I remember. i have recently done some work on the cooling system, (new temperature sensor) temp is in the 80-90 degree range on the dials, fan cuts in as it should. is there anything worth checking on the heater itself...? How does it work? Is there a duct to the cabin that opens when you press the switch that might be open all the time, that's how it feels....or is it only determined by the heater fan switch. Any idea where I should be looking?

Cut two wires and remove...add lightness! ;-)

I absolutely love my Xflow. It was upgraded by Roger King, who's work is highly regarded. You sometimes see 7s advertised with his name attached. Cant compare mileage, but I'm happy. I love the quote n a mileage thread where someone said '25mpg, but 18 on a good day'... I haven't measured mpg. As mentioned, easily to work on and diagnose faults. Carb set up you do need skill, but a good 7 specialist should oblige. Lots of character and parts should not be a problem I believe you can even get new blocks as the vintage race market wanted them. Burton good for parts, gaskets etc. Handbrake position worried me before purchase, as I live right by a steep hill with lights on it. Not a problem in truth, I just don't use it on runs. No need.

Ahhh, it was on Pistonheads... http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&f=101&t=1525833 the post mentioned a Land Rover 90 screen: Hi all, Following reading all the comments I made some good steps today. I use this car mostly in the sun but you never know when you'll get stuck in some inclement weather! So on that basis a glass screen is the way for me to go. I called a couple of national windscreen people but they are of no use. I then called a local company - Car Glass & Trim Ltd, Windshield Repair Service, W End Rd, Ipswich, Suffolk IP1 2DZ - fantastic company, really helpful. They are going to cut one from a Land Rover 90 screen as these are totally flat and have the correct stamps etc. £70 plus the VAT has to be a bargain. The only down side is its not heated but I can live with that! The side brackets/stantions are being powder coated by Hi Spec Powder Coatings, 3 Maitland Rd, Needham Market, Ipswich - also good service. Cheers for the help. Ed

I recall seeing a thread here where someone got a flat land rover screen cut in Ipswich (?) which cleverly kept the kite marks. I'll see if I can find it.

I use skateboard bushings. The taller ones used for longboards and a bolt. They are made from urethane rather than rubber. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SABRE-KingCone-Truck-Bushings-Longboard-Skateboard-Downhill-86a-90a-93a/181460233342?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3Db1382168bd364ea48b2ec9e707325857%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D221956635578

Done! Feeling even more confident now your 10 days ahead of me. Cheers!

To keep these very useful archives current, I'm posting about replacing my X flow starter. After a few starting issues, (it 'coughed' on startup and just didn't seem to ever start first or second time, maybe not kicking in till 5 goes or more) I traced the fault to my starter giving up. I checked earths, hit it with hammer, etc, but just felt it was on its way out, you know that 'will it start? Heart in mouth feeling every time you stop. Anyway, got a quote of £99 to refurb existing starter at my go to alternator/starter place... Checked this forum for possible alternatives and contemplated an upgrade to the racier aftermarket starters. One alternative mentioned was the LRS110, so checked for prices online, found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-SIERRA-1-6-2-0-OHC-PINTO-HIGH-POWER-BRAND-NEW-UPGRADE-STARTER-MOTOR-82-86-/271765788262?hash=item3f4680d666:g:3EcAAOSwh6xTtA77 ​£79 delivered. Ordered Tuesday, arrived Wednesday by DPD with one hour delivery window. I was a bit worried as the only real difference I could see was that I could see the cog was slightly less long and wasn't flush to the case (see picture), but it was obvious that once the solenoid engages the cog goes forward to the same place to contact the flywheel cogs. Fitting was easy, disconnect battery, put on ramps, undo 3 bolts (plus a fourth on block to ease access) undo positive and feed, put replacement in ( doing top bolt up fqirst to seat it properly) then tighten bolts up bit by bit. Connect wires again and battery. Whooooosh! Keruuuuuuumppppppffffffff! Gosh what a difference. Just spins like a top! Delighted! Before fitting I weighed the old starter 3.9 kilos, new one is 2.9, and it's rated at 1.4 kW. Now I know to many club members replacing a starter is no biggy, but I wanted to post this to encourage the tinkerers that it's a very easy doable job, under an hour. I'll report back if I encounter any problems.

Fitted new switch (superb next day first class delivery by Car Builder Solutions). Works like a dream. Did check contacts on old one, Mort, no dice, but made sure new one is doubly secure/tight. Thanks to the club again, for speedy suggestions and help. Phew!

Side and dip and full not working, only full if I hold down the flash switch. i have wiring diagram...(and tester) ordered new switch anyway. Checking relays.

My lights went out last evening, dip and full, but the flash switch does illuminate the lights if held down.... Flashers work. Ive checked fuses, looked at wiring. No thorough testing yet. Wondering what sort of things I should check now.

I wired a light to my dash to my fan override switch, to show when it was in operation. This also kicks in when the thermostat switch kicks in and is nice as a handy reminder it's reassuringly operating. When I switch off and remove my key the light turns on if I haven't switched my cut-off switch. At first fit I was confused as to why this happened, but decided I liked this as I can see very easily if I have left the electrics on. It reminds me to turn the cut-off and at that point it turns off. The cut off of course kills the lights as well. The light is marked 'fan switch' on my dash, it's not a distraction when driving as it is slightly hidden from eye line by steering wheel. But is a great reassurance I find in traffic and for keeping a reminder to check temp guage.

I just checked the excellent build diary of a R500 http://www.caterhamr500.co.uk. On the second page in you can see the knee panels (in carbon) fixed by screws, you can see the cross heads... If it's good enough for that beautiful car it should be good enough for mine....

On your panel, mine used black domehead screws about 15mm long to fix the long side panel from under the scuttle, holding both that panel and what I think they call the knee panel in as well...mind you, mine was built by a dealer and may have been subsequently modded, but I don't think so.

Did you fit a plug to the wires to the alternator? I did after mine shorted. I didn't even realise there was a plug available until I looked at pictures of the alternator online... Mine was shorting in wet weather, not sure how exposed yours is, mine is a Crossflow. Anyway, a few pounds on eBay (universal alternator plug) and a bit of crimping and soldering and I've had no issues since.

On mine the fixed nipple end of the wire goes in the centre hollow of the pedal tube. To get the old cable out and new one in I had to bend the 'ears' of the tube back to slot it in, then close it up with strong pliers. i have seen this method: http://caterham420r.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/build-day-35-throttle-cable-brake-and.html. Which looks interesting and perhaps easier/quicker if doing a rolling repair.

Just done throttle cable on mine (xflow). Easy peasy, and cheap (£8.50 from Redline). Yours may be different, but I had to undo the pedal box cover to get great access to pedals from above. My sticky throttle occurred after a very hot run, gunk gets into the cable and eventually seems to grease up. Over time it just didn't return to idle quickly and could feel like I had cruise control... Had to hook my foot under the throttle a couple of times to release it... Not good. Ive rescued the old cable by poking the cable from an emergency throttle pack that's sold in a tin, clearing the gunk out of the tube and then replacing the cable through a bit of 3in1 oil. I'll add it to my touring pack of spares.... its an easy job and satisfying to know you could do it quickly if it snapped, or failed in future.

I was honoured to see the 'GJT collection' today. I am pleased to say it was a 10 min job.... I popped by to book it in and discuss a bit of work in future, as he's usually too busy to answer the phone. im lucky it's so local.

Great, sorted out a sensor this morning at the local motor factors, fitted it and ran it up to temp. This time the fan kicked in....hoorah! Even though I have a fan override switch I was pleased that I now have the fail safe working. Popped over to RatRace to see if he could book in a proper tune of my carbs, which with the recent overheating, sticking throttle cable and carb flooding had got seriously out of whack, spitting and popping like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. He kindly twiddled and fiddled while I waited with the proper balancing tool, screwdriver and good pair of ears so now I have a sweet running 7 again. He did advise getting a lower temp sensor, which I have now ordered, but happy that that seemed to be the source of the initial overheat (after taking my eye off the temp guage) I also checked my thermostat by dunking in boiling water.

Excellent! Wunderbar! Thank you all.

Excellent! Wunderbar! Thank you all.

Cheers Klunk, now I can find what I'm looking for.

I have this on my cooling system, xflow 1700 1995.... What should I be asking for to replace it? I'm thinking temperature sender unit, but can't see similar online (yet).... the wiring goes to an override of the fan.