Stridey
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Everything posted by Stridey
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Looked cold, but happy, always makes me happy to see one about.... however when I was flashed behind I pulled over and was checking my car when it turned out to be a chum in a car I didn't know he had!
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Around 10 ish classic green I flashed from a red Fiat 500
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duplicate, was on phone...
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Always worth checking leads with a multimeter , a ruler and a simple formula to work out resistance over length (Search you tube).... When I did this it revealed a lead that was out of kilter with the others.
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I decided to upgrade my fan override to the one mentioned in blatchat archives and old Low Flying. it uses a relay so is better than the simple non relay circuit had already.. My query is this, the circuit is designed to run direct off the battery so that the fan continues to run when stopped, evidently to save the head gasket a bit. Now. I see that the fan would continue to run if the temp switch is active BUT: a) As only the fan would continue, water pump would not continue, how long would the fan run on for on average, as I'm worried the battery will drain. b) Is it really worth worrying about?
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I'd also suggest getting electrical bits and bobs too. (I find fiddling with electrics satisfying)... Good wire, a selection of connectors, crimping tool, shrinking tubes, soldering iron, multimeter... various simple jobs, fan override, 12v socket, turn signal beeper, etc. Worth having just in case..,skills often help you work out any electrical issues over time.
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I didn't solder these ones as my soldering iron wasn't working! Probably for the best. Can report (as I sit at Shell waiting for Longy to go to the L2B run) that it's working at 14.1 v constantly, and down a 10th each time I switch on things. Deeply relieved and thanks for the tips!
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Your probably right Bricol, the crimps were done by me (and soldered)... over time they have deteriorated to that awful state for some reason in situ... I resorted to using the plug, (basically a cover that clips over the wires) after plugless running led to shorting in rain or after running through a puddle. The plug comes with 3 crimp ends at right angles, to fit the plug. I had a couple of years good running at least until the recent issues.
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Previously on here I've suggested fitting a cover plug to the alternator wires. Monitoring charging these past few months I'd noticed it wasn't always charging correctly. Took the plug off to inspect, thinking I'd just clean the contacts and saw the wire connections had deteriorated badly, over the last 2 years or so. I've replaced the contacts and plug and smeared dialectic grease. Hopefully will keep things at bay... I thought I'd post as I'll add it to my winter checklist. I'm now not so sure the plug did what I was hoping, but without the plug I'd found contact issues previously... maybe it's 50/50?
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Ahhhh, every day is a school day! You probably saved me some time in the future. Ta!
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You can buy the little bulbs in bulk, I replaced a couple that had blown on various rocker switches over time. Can be worth checking. You do need to dis-assemble the switch but it's pretty simple.
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Mine is aftermarket and piggy backs the indicator switch, so perhaps track back from there to find a buzzer. Mine comes on after about 10 ticks and goes off if my brake is depressed so not constant in traffic. I find it very useful.
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I had one that needed replacing, replaced with plain, I think on balance I prefer clear, the greenish tint on heated got to me, and of course cost. Perhaps if I used full hood and misting was an issue I'd prefer heated. With a half hood misting has been minor.
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Solved! Thanks SM25T as my first port of call was alt end plug wiring, which revealed an extra unplugged wire, which had pull out of somewhere. As the only place I could think of was the starter motor I felt near the big wire and felt a tab, that probably should have had that erroneous wire in. Put it in, put plug back on alt, fingers crossed, fired up first time, 13.8 on the button. Will spend a little time tomorrow putting dialectic grease on connections and checking earths anyway, to prep for autumn. Thank you so much.
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OK, pulled plug to do test above but found cable had an extra wire that was not fixed to anything, I suspect it's fallen out of somewhere... but where close by? Wire is the single one with white cable and female connector on it.
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Ta, will try and report back.
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Ta, will try and report back.
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OK, had an issue this week after driving fine on Wednesday afternoon, saw it was charging (voltmeter indicated 13.8). On night drive to club meet I noticed red alt light would dimly glow, getting slightly brighter under load. No sign of alternator charging, volts slowly going down from 12.4 to 11.4. On returning to car it was very nippy, and car would not start on button, or key. Short push start got me home, volts reducing slowly, but enough to keep things running. Fitted new alternator, gave battery a days trickle charge, battery on 12.4v Absolutely nothing on the red button or key this morning. I can hear fuel pump. What should my problem solving plan of action be now do you think? I'm tempted to check wiring under dash first, but wondered what the gurus reckon?
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Robert, it is. I was very lucky as I don't think I paid a premium over a regular Crossflow at the time, 4 years ago. Here is a bit of the paperwork, which included all the test results, running in procedure and servicing guidelines.
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Well I’m driving a Roger King converted AX blocked 7 done 20 years ago at a not inconsiderable cost of circa £3500, commissioned by a previous owner. It seems to have had the works, Raceco exhaust, Alpha 3D mapping at 17,000 miles. It’s now on 57,000. I love this car with a passion, but looking at the wonderful paperwork I have you can really see it is so much more than just forged pistons. Roger, I salute you!
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Almost right... we used hairspray on transparencies when drum scanning them for reprograhics when I was a high end retoucher....They did sell pukka stuff, but it was, essentially hair spray. This helped reduce an effect (Probably of interest only to JK!) known as ‘Newton Rings’ often mistaken for ‘Moire’ patterning. I know photographers and theatres use stuff to dull reflections. Of course I hope it doesn’t just create a goooey mess, but a light dusting may suffice.
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You may think I’m mad, but a quick spray of hairspray over the dial may help. Not in my grooming kit essentials, but you may know someone...
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In case you weren’t aware, https://www.newton-equipment.com/. Newton supplied Caterham, not sure if that still the case. Possibly the worst customer service I’ve experienced ‘parts arn’t a priority’... (what...on fuel caps used in aviation and racing?)....
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There are quite a few ‘Q’ plates of around 25 years old, in fact my chum who recently bought a 25 year old Crossflow had to wait a long time for a non ‘Q’ of his preferred specification to crop up. Cycle wings... again, cars of that age may well be clammed. My ‘96 was, though the dealer did an excellent job of converting to cycle wings and adapting the lamp stays to cycle wing style. They (7s and Classics) also resprayed it and you cannot see where the 5 fixing holes for the clams were. I was lucky to get a 1700 Crossflow that had been worked on by Roger King to 150bhp, with bills from previous owner. I am delighted by it, and have noticed Roger King engines are often mentioned in ads. Good luck in your search!
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Agreed on those Lithium battery starters. I was just trying to figure out why the red light came on. It’s an indication for that short time the alt is not working, and a slipping belt can do that.
