JP Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 It has now failed for a second time in a year...another £30 Is there a mechanical / capillary type replacement available which is a simple replacement in the same screw hole in the filter housing? If not, why not!!?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 It's only a worry gauge. Why don't you fit an ultra reliable 20psi or 35 psi switch instead of a gauge sender? Sahf London; every 1st Wednesday from 19:30 at The Duck just around the corner from Clapham Junction station Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted August 9, 2004 Author Share Posted August 9, 2004 Mmmm...how do you do that then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 It is what the racers tend to fit. A gauge takes constant monitoring to see fluctuations. The pressure switches you can get tend to be much more robust than the proportional diaphragm type senders. Some racers fit a 35psi one wired to "large" light on the dashg/scuttle top. At 35psi it tends to flicker at idle, but idle doesn't matter. When running 35 psi tells you about impending disaster rather than the disaster which has just happened (standard automotive oil pressure switches tend to be at something like 2.5psi). The switches have the same threads as the senders - 1/8 NPTF and M10 fine tend to be the most popular depending on engine. Sahf London; every 1st Wednesday from 19:30 at The Duck just around the corner from Clapham Junction station Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 Cheers PC, I'd rather not make more holes in the dash...if I replace the sender with a switch and connect to the gauge will I get an all-or-nothing deflection. I'd be happy with that rather than extra dashboard holes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 If you just want a mechanical oil pressure gauge they are available from "Think Automotive", who offer L7C members a 25% discount. There is a parts list in 7FAQ under "Other Articles". As it sounds as though you don't want a low pressure warning light, you'll have to modify the parts list slightly. If you talk to Mathew Potter at Think, he'll sort you out. I've used a mechanical oil pressure gauge since my electric one went pear shaped and it gives a rock steady reading. The gauge is calibrated in psi which gives a wider scale too. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 Thanks Tony, Will probably go for that set-up. However, the "T" piece addition for the warning light just sounds like it adds more work - if one already has a gauge, what is the point of having the warning light as well? Are the parts all Rover parts list parts ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 Another thought...is there a Caterham branded gauge for a mechanical "sender" available - it would be nice if the dials still matched... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 No Rover parts. The MOCAL gauge from Think closely resembles the Caterham gauge, in fact, the only difference I can see is the absence of the word Caterham. The femail thread when you remove the oil pressure transducer from a modern K-Series is M12 x 1.5. If you tell Mathew at "Think" what you want to do he will send you the correct fittings. As PC points out, a bright light mounted within you eye line, which is set to illuminate at about 35 psi, will give you immediate warning while driving of a drop in oil pressure; hopefully enough warning for you to switch off before there is any expensive damage. The standard low oil pressure light doesn't warn you until the pressure reaches ZERO - maybe too late. The 35 psi switch is user adjustable - you could set it to illuminate the light at 40 or 50 or 20 psi if you wanted. I have such a switch set at 30 psi. When at hot idle the light is just flickering. The gauge gives good pressure indication at all times. I find the pressure reading useful to "indicate" oil temperature when the engine is started from cold. It takes at least 10 miles of gentle driving before the oil pressure drops to 60 psi hot running and 30 psi hot idle - signal for WELLY 😬 I regularly monitor the oil pressure, but have the confidence the light will give me instant warning of oil pressure loss - you pays yer money ...... BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 Sounds like a very sensible upgrade to me and not too expensive either. I'd like to see one fitted, but will probably put this on my to-do list for the winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 Ok, ok will call Think tomorrow and see what they can do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted August 11, 2004 Share Posted August 11, 2004 I second Tony C's comments - after chatting with him at the Millwood open day and seeing his installation, I have done the same (based on the parts list in FAQ). It is easy to do and far far better than the standard Caterham set-up. SV 52 CAT - moles fly - here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponant Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 where do l find THINK AUTOMOTIVE adresse phone & fax and the 7FAQ thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Think here 7FAQ - top right hand of this page, beneath Home 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Mssr. Carmichael.. was correct.. Foolish to disregard the considered suggestions. Oil pressure switches operate instantly.. V few arguement possibilities on the worth of that function. What makes yer "Dash" so Sacrosanct... a light fitting install does not necessarily entail a Football size hole chewed into the thing by starving rodents... or do we have our eye Myopically fixated on Resale? :-) In the Very least install a ' T' fitting onna Block's oil sender Hole..retaining a Switch in there..as well as whatever gauge you choose to install. But dosen't even that mean an additional Dash hole :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted September 22, 2004 Share Posted September 22, 2004 Well I just ordered all the bits to convert to a mechanical gauge and warning light (as per 7FAQ info), Mathew Potter was most helpful. If anyone has any info on how to go about fitting them or some pictures that we be great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted September 22, 2004 Share Posted September 22, 2004 I can take some pics of mine if you need them, but it's a fairly straight forward job to do - If I can do it, anyone can 😬 Make-up the 'T' piece you get from "Think" with the pressure switch in its hole - I used some of that PTFE tape that plumbers use on the tapered thread - belt and braces. Screw the flexible line into its hole in the 'T' piece and screw the adaptor for the capilary tube into the other hole. Remove the electric sender from its hole in the filter housing - engine oil may squirt out, so be ready with a finger. Screw-in the adaptor. Connect the flexible line to the engine adaptor. Mount the 'T' piece in a convenient location - I use a 'P' clip around one of the chassis tubes. Run the capilary tube along the chassis tubes - I ran it into the cockpit through the hole in the forward end of the tunnel cover - make sure you don't pinch it. Remove the electric gauge from the dash and replace with the mechanical gauge - having attached the capilary tube and instrument light wires. Decide where you want the BIG red light - I mounted mine high between the speed-o and Tach-o. Make its hole. You need to connect a green wire (ignition live) to one side of the light - tap-into one behind the dash. There is a spare wire that emerges from the loom that passes in front of the engine - It looks black with a grey stripe - find the end in the loom behind the dash and connect it to the other terminal on the light. Connect the black/grey wire to the low oil pressure switch, down by the front of the engine and connect the other terminal on the low oil pressure switch to Earth. The low oil pressure switch will be closed and the light will be ON until the oil pressure rises to whatever the switch is set to - there's an adjuster on the back - 30 psi is reasonable - at this pressure the switch will open and the light will remain OUT until the pressure drops to below 30 psi. Robert is now your Mothers Brother 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Cheers Tony, sounds easy enough, I'll let you know if I get stuck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Just a word of warning.... I have a 35psi switch fitted a recommend it to all that I speak to on the subject of oil pressure (mine is connected to an indicator repeater light in the centre of the dash). However it is essential that you verify that the light is working every time that you start your engine. It is suprisingly easy to forget that you should see the light come on when your ignition is switched on and this can have fatal results (I am currently helping to rebuild an engine whose early warning light wiring failed). They don't fail safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 I'm now doing the mod. Question - when making up the short flexible hose from engine to T piece - how tight do you need to do up the bits that tighten onto the hose (IYSWIM)? Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 From the Think Automotive Catalogue Hose Assembly Instructions:- Lubricate nipple and socket threads - engine oil OK. Hold the nipple with the hex in a vise. Push hose over nipple with twisting motion until seated against nipple chamfer. Push socket forward and start threading of socket to nipple. Wrench tighten hex until clearance with socket hex is 1/32" or less. Tighten further to align corners of nipple and socket hexes. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Rimmer Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 Tony C or anyone. Where exactly is the black wire grey strip that can be used for the warning light. Are there any other options ? I have the guage all plumbed in and operating but cannot find a suitable wire ? Suggestions please ! thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 There was one unused wire protruding from the engine loom in the vicinity of the electric oil pressure transmitter (2003 SV), but you can use the wire that the electric transmitter uses. Note its colour code and find it under the dash. If you can't find a suitable wire, run a new one. It'll be outside the loom, but that's no big 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Where would I buy such a switch Peter R500 no 65 😬 Edited by - Petrolhead on 10 Oct 2004 11:21:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Biddle Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 If you'r going to fit a mechanical guage, which is far better IMHO, why not get a dual function one that shows oil temp as well. Very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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