Torque setting the suspension during the build.

[Ainsley]

I've read a few blogs, and the manual, about torque setting the suspension.

Some have suggested that once the engine is in place, its hard to actually get to some of the bolts, so doing them up to the required settings needs to be done while you have access.

That makes sense, but contradicts the manual, which suggests doing it once there is some weight on the car and its sitting on its wheels.

So, given the mixed advice, I reckon I may as well stick the wheels on it and torque up the bolts without the engine / gearbox in, but weight up the engine bay so its close to the right weight.  I believe the engine is about 70kg ?  The gearbox is not much.  I could just get my fat mate to help out.

What do the rest of you suggest ?

[Jonathan Kay]

Yes, some are difficult to access after assembly. But you'll have more tools and adaptors by then!

For the others do the final setting loaded as the Assembly Guide says: on the wheels, and with one or two people in the seats, according to taste.

Jonathan

PS: Have you decided how you're going to torque the rear hubs?

Edited February 26 by Jonathan Kay

[Simon.Rogers]

I think that that option would work.  However you are significantly under playing the weight of the engine, ancilaries, radiator, fluids, gearbox etc and occupants.

The principle is OK in my opinion.

[John Vine]

The guidance in the various Assembly Guides seems to depend on the vintage of the Guide.  The original text-rich Guide (up to around 2015) says:

...whereas the later pictorial version says:

 

So, you pays your money...

I think your method would work just fine.  Then again, the "old" method worked for me.

JV

[aerobod - near CYYC]

You can also remove the spring/damper lower bolt and level the suspension arms before tightening.

[Wrightpayne]

I’m just under 100kgs if thats any help. If I get a good footing on the chassis rails I could probably balance while holding a bag of sand 🙂

[paul richards]

R

2 hours ago, aerobod - near CYYC said:

You can also remove the spring/damper lower bolt and level the suspension arms before tightening.

I understand that’s  what they do at the factory. They do it before the shock absorbers are fitted and simply lift the de dion and tighten when trailing arm/A frame are parallel to ground. Similarly lift front suspensions and tighten when wishbones parallel to the ground. Then they fit the shock absorbers. 

[Englishmaninwales]

7 hours ago, Jonathan Kay said:

Yes, some are difficult to access after assembly. But you'll have more tools and adaptors by then!

For the others do the final setting loaded as the Assembly Guide says: on the wheels, and with one or two people in the seats, according to taste.

Jonathan

PS: Have you decided how you're going to torque the rear hubs?

Rear hubs…appropriately ranged torque wrench?

[Ainsley]

Ah, you mean the 270 Nm torque.   

Does anyone have a 5 meter long torque wrench that I an borrow then 🙂

[Englishmaninwales]

Try your friendly local garage owner. I’ve never had any difficulty. 

[Jonathan Kay]

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

Ah, you mean the 270 Nm torque.   

Does anyone have a 5 meter long torque wrench that I an borrow then

Yes, many of us *borrowed the wrench and the socket. Check whether you have 41 mm or 42 mm nuts. And remember that the wrench has to be able to tighten the left-handed nut.

There are some in the Loan Directory.

Jonathan

* Others have rigged a known weight on a known lever. 

[Ainsley]

OK, will do.

I've spent all weekend on the car so far, plus last night.

Done:

• Horns
• Steering arm (twice as I failed to realise I had to drill the hole for the horns first)
• Upper / Lower wishbones
• Front ARB
• Dampers
• Uprights
• Wing stays
• Heater
• IVA trim at the front

Picked up an engine hoist from Tom in Rugby, planning on doing the engine install this weekend.

[lapsedtheorist]

If it helps any…

1) during my build I torqued the front suspension with the wishbones horizontal but not on the ground

2) for the rear hub nuts I needed to buy a 42mm socket, then used a 210Nm torque wrench to its limit one side (the right hand thread) and then gave an extra generous push with the breaker bar… and did the other side to roughly the same effort with the breaker bar

Caterham will sort out both as part of the free post-build-check; I gave them a list of about a dozen things I wanted them to check and all were included in the service, so it’s well worth doing I think.

[Ainsley]

Ah, good point. I forgot about getting them to do it for me at the post build check stage.

Thanks.