Gridgway Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 I have taken the engine and box out of my mid-90s LA 7 (supposedly finished its resto) as the rebuilt xflow needs some work. Also the gearbox was leaking quite a lot from the speedo drive oil seal. So I can fix that easily, but what about the cable? There isn't a right angle drive, so the cable is a bit kinked where it comes out of the fitting that goes to the gearbox with the circlip. The plastic outer is split. It's currently not accessible as the underside of the tunnel is panelled. So any further work will need the engine and box out again. What would you do? 1 just use the old speedo cable as was is it still works? 2 replace the speedo cable like for like (here)? 3 Convert to the right angle drive and new cable (assuming you can get them)? 4 attack the panelling in the tunnel sides to cut access holes to be covered by a plate (or the big plastic 2" grommet here)? 5 something else? Cheers Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryK Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 (edited) Mine was very similar when I stripped it. I have a T9 5 speed box. Hole had been cut in the tunnel and speedo cable routed under the dash. I got an angle drive made by Speedograph Richfield. https://www.speedograph-richfield.com/shop/angle-drives/rgb1030 A bit of a dog's dinner! Gary Edited January 11 by GaryK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 11 Member Share Posted January 11 What model is the gearbox? Burton Power are good for speedo bits. Jonathan PS: Other options include electronic drive from the gearbox (but you'd have to change the instrument), driving a cycle computer off a wheel, and a GPS device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Definitely a bit of a dog's dinner Gary! Shows the challenge of cutting nice access holes in situ. To cut the 2" circle, I'd have to mark it. drill inside the circle and do a rough cut to get the centre of the hole out. Then very carefully finish with a dremel to get a nice circle. Thanks for the link JK, I'd looked at the Burton site. Looks like their angle drive is the one made by the guys in Gary's link (and a very similar price). I think really I should get the right angle drive and new speedo cable. Then consider whether I want to make access better for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 I’d be reluctant to cut holes in the tunnel on old crossflows - the full piece floor and rivited tunnel add to the strength of the chassis. I could be talking complete rubbish and holes are fine - I wouldn’t do it if avoidable! Later dedion cars had a much stiffer steel ‘backbone’ tunnel with lots of bracing and triangulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 I think that's a good observation Ian. I didn't need much more persuasion not to cut holes! I just need to decide whether to try and go for the right angle drive or not. Although I don't know if there is a cable with the right ends to screw to the drive at the gearbox end and a Smiths speedo at the other. Simplest is just a new cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted January 11 Area Representative Share Posted January 11 (edited) Right angle adaptor and new cable. You might as well. My opinion only. Edited January 11 by Golf Juliet Tango Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 It would be a different cable on the right angle drive as it attaches via a threaded collar whereas the existing just has a flange locked in by the circlip. My 98 car has a right angle drive which screws onto a brass ‘top hat’ piece which the circlip attaches to the box. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 I’d consider changing to a right angle drive, although the cost might be a bit of a shocker!! https://www.burtonpower.com/90-degree-speedo-drive-adaptor-gbt9560.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtBuddha Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 I bought a GPS speed sensor from Bridgwater after seeing a post from a fellow Caterham owner who had fitted one to his Caterham after similar speedo cable issues. https://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/gps-road-speed-module-p141 I have yet to fit it mine but will do so by the Spring. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 I've asked Speedograph (linked above) if they can supply a right angle drive plus cable for a Smiths gauge. That seems the right approach. Thanks for the GPS suggestion, I just prefer to keep my Smiths gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Just a quick update. I've decided to go for the speedograph right angle drive plus a cable they will make to go to the Speedo which is VDO not Smiths. I got my two caterhams confused! Thanks for all the suggestions! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iamscotticus Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I know you've made up your mind, but there are some speedos that can use a sensor near a rotating surface like a crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Yes, thanks, I have one of those on my BDR. You can also get GPS ones with very little installation required. But I prefer to keep my original speedo if poss. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 On 11/01/2024 at 14:09, Gridgway said: I have taken the engine and box out of my mid-90s LA 7 (supposedly finished its resto) as the rebuilt xflow needs some work. Also the gearbox was leaking quite a lot from the speedo drive oil seal. So I can fix that easily... So I said I could fix it easily, I was wrong. I've replaced the oil seal and it still leaks. In fact I've had two goes at it as I assumed I cocked up the first time. This is just sat on the bench, the end of the drive gets quite damp with oil. I imagine that when it is run, it'll leak like it did before. Nothing to speak of when standing, but a good puddle when used.. There is a witness mark on the speedo drive spindle, but I'm surprised it's worn enough to make it leak. Is there a chance that the oil seals (from ebay) are a bit rubbish? Any other ideas? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 I've not had a problem with the Burton supplied oil seals but the speedo drive gear can be a problem. Is yours the original plastic one? If it needs replacing they can be hard to find new or secondhand. Steel ones used to be available from Burton (and others) but don't think they are any longer. I think I've a spare original type but not sure many teeth it has. What's yours? The regular Ital axle/diff drive gears are: 3.64 22T original Ford pt no 1546878 White 3.89 24T 6011062 Green 4.11 25T 1546879 Blue I think there's a 23T (Black?) as well which is used with one of the Ford diffs. The pinion gear can also be changed (6, 7 or 8 tooth) so you can get some odd combinations where people have juggled with the gears to an accurate reading with different diff and tyre combinations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 Mine is a brown colour plastic with a metal end that goes through the oil seal. I'll need to go and recount the teeth as I did, but then promptly forgot! I'm just doing a static test at the moment with the gearbox on the bench while the engine is being attended to. So if there is one around that I could just borrow to see if it is oil proof, that would be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 I can't recall any of the Type E box drives being brown so could be a Type 9 which, I think, are interchangeable. Needs a tooth count on both the gear and pinion to see where you are with your diff / tyre combination. The original Caterham selections for the Ital diffs above assume a 7 tooth pinion and 13" 185/70 tyres The spare I have is a 25T and happy for you to borrow it to check the oil seal - message me with your address if you want to do that. Here's the original Ford schedule for the various drive combinations if it helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Here's my drive. It's not at all obvious to me why there should be oil seepage with a new oil seal. The witness mark from the oil seal lip isn't particularly bad. In a week standing on the bench there is a small amount of visible oil dripped off and an obvious drip forming on the end of the drive so it definitely looks to be leaking between the drive spindle and the seal. I'll try Robert's spare (thanks!) and see if it makes a difference. I can measure the diameters as well to see if there's a difference, but I doubt it. I haven't worked out whether the spiral delivers oil down when the drive is turning or whether it takes oil back up. IF it delivers oil when spinning it'll definitely make the leak worse in use which is what I have seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 You can fit two oil seals, one on top of the other. It might solve the problem as the second seal will run on an unused portion of the shaft… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 That sounds a great idea, but I can't see how as the recess is only big enough for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 If you get to cutting a hole, swaging it will add back some strength. You can 3d print swages these days so they're not very expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 3 hours ago, Gridgway said: I haven't worked out whether the spiral delivers oil down when the drive is turning or whether it takes oil back up. Viewing the spindle from the cable-drive end, it spins clockwise so will pull oil away from the seal: JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 I'll pop mine in the post mine for you to try. The shaft measures 0.311". I've an old paper with the oil seal dims listed as 5/16" X 0.635" X 0.27". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Thanks Robert, it'll be interesting to compare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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