aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 Things are now starting to look a bit more complete, rather than a scattered set of parts waiting to be put together. I started with the head assembly, initially the valve keepers were slow to fit, but a bit of practice and using a magnetic probe to place them made the task a lot easier: Besides organizing the valves and other components in plastic fishing tackle boxes, redundancy in case of upset by numbering all components that have to go back in specific places with a permanent marker, is worthwhile: The head is now ready for fitting to the block: The clearance checks to the #1 piston at TDC gave the following results: Inlet valve (closed) to piston pocket - 8.5mm Exhaust valve (closed) to piston pocket - 7.0mm Spark plug well to piston crown - 11.0mm Spark plug ground strap to piston crown - 6.5mm Before fitting the crankshaft, a basic check of the main bearing clearances using Plastigauge was done. I didn’t fully torque the bolts to avoid using up a stretch bolt life, but used the seating torque of 45Nm, followed by the first 90 degree rotation: The clearance for all bearings was around 0.045mm, so should be within the max 0.035mm range when the final 90 degree torque of the stretch bolts is done: It is important to ensure all the bearing shells and surfaces they are fitted to are fully degreased and carefully fitted accurately, relative to the reference surface at the rear of the block: The big end bearing shells also have to be accurately fitted. They need to be 2.5mm from each side of the connecting rod enclosure. I found a washer 2.5mm thick and used it against a straight edge to accurately position each shell: I applied Redline assembly lube to all the bearing surfaces and edge of the connecting rod bearing housings. As the engine will not be fitted to the car and started for at least a month, I didn’t want to rely just on engine oil for the initial start: Before torquing the engine bolts, I did a quick check on the torque wrench calibration, using an airline bag scale, which I had checked with some weights to ensure it was accurate enough, within a few percent: The main bearing cradle has to be aligned to the back of the block within 0.1mm, before it is torqued. Using some aluminium blocks and a clamp, it was placed in the correct position: After the 45Nm jointing torque, an angle gauge was used to apply 2x 90 degrees of torque to the main bearing bolts in the correct sequence: After the crankshaft was fitted, endfloat was checked and measured to be 0.13mm. This is below the reference spec, but is completely controlled by the #3 upper main bearing thrust surfaces and should be sufficient, as the only thermal expansion that could close the gap is just across the width of the #3 bearing: The prep of the piston rings took half a day to do accurately. I had a cheap Amazon ring grinding tool that worked well. I have gone for ring gaps that are at the large end of the range, as the engine will spend half its life on the track flat out. The Wossner Piston spec for a road car is 0.35mm and 0.50mm for forced induction, for the top ring gap, I picked 0.45mm as appropriate. They also specify larger 2nd ring gaps to avoid back pressure on the top ring (0.55mm in my case) and a slightly larger oil ring gap of 0.60mm: I used an old piston with zip ties around it as a depth stop to ensure that the rings were placed at a consistent depth and square to the bore: Accurate and frequent measurement of the ring gap is needed to grind it to within 0.02mm accuracy: After fitting the rings in the correct orientation, tape was used on the outsides of the connecting rods to protect the bores from any scratching, then the pistons were fitted using the tapered ring compression tube I machined previously. It is important with floating connecting rod small-ends (as mine are) that the bearing shell position is checked before the big-end caps are fitted, as the big ends can catch on the edge of the crankshaft when being fitted. I had one move and had to remove the piston again and re-align the shell. Only hand pressure was used to fit the pistons, with slight movement of the tube against the rings as both thumbs pressed down on the piston crown: ARP 2000 big-end fasteners were used, along with the ARP molybdenum lubricant. The end float of the big ends is 0.25mm on #1 & #4 cylinders and 0.20mm on #2 and #3 cylinders, both around the middle of the reference range: The pistons all fitted: While the head is fitted and before basic timing alignment is done, the pistons are all set to mid-bore to avoid any risk of valve to piston contact when the cams are fitted: The head was then fitted. Due to the compressibility of the head gasket, I found that I had to repeat the final jointing torque sequence on the head bolts twice to ensure all bolts had reached the top 45Nm jointing torque. The bolts were then given the two-stage 90 degree torque. To ensure I didn’t miss a bolt or if I lost track of the tightening sequence, it was important to put a mark on all bolts facing towards the back of the block. After correct torquing, each mark then faced the front of the block: After the head was fitted I then measured each bucket tappet to confirm the thickness matched the marked value. Before disassembly of the valves on the new head, I had checked all the clearances and selected the closest tappets I had to each position, as the head originally was set for Ford clearances, but the Kent cam clearances are different at 0.25mm. After checking the clearances again with the head torqued, all had decreased by about 0.05mm (clearances have to be set on the bolted down head). I then did a second rearrangement of the tappets and remeasured again to get the final clearances I need to purchase tappets for. Most of the tappets need replacing to reach either 0.25 or 0.26mm clearance (0.02mm steps in the 40 available part numbers): My final list of replacement tappets is: 2x Tappet 282 (3.282mm) CP9Z-6500-DBB 1x Tappet 302 (3.302mm) CP9Z-6500-DCB 1x Tappet 362 (3.362mm) CP9Z-6500-EBB 2x Tappet 382 (3.382mm) CP9Z-6500-ECB 1x Tappet 422 (3.422mm) CP9Z-6500-FAB 4x Tappet 442 (3.442mm) CP9Z-6500-FBB 2x Tappet 482 (3.482mm) CP9Z-6500-FDB 3x Tappet 502 (3.502mm) CP9Z-6500-GAB Hopefully I will be able to get them all within a week or so. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Really enjoying following this build. Great detail and photos. Wonderful work, I look forward to the next update. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 2 hours ago, PlastererPete said: Really enjoying following this build. Great detail and photos. Wonderful work, I look forward to the next update. Absolutely. Well done, James! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Unfortunately 3 of the 8 tappet sizes I need are going to be at least 3 weeks before delivery. I tried multiple sources both local Ford dealers and online dealers, and received the same message. I can’t re use old tappets in those sizes either, as I don’t have enough of them. Was hoping to have the engine back in the car in March, but that might not happen now. Will have to see if I can get a better ETA in the next week, otherwise will have to chase aftermarket parts or see if I can find the equivalent Mazda part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 James Have you tried Burton Power or Swindon Powertrain over here, if they wont ship to you send them to me and I will redirect them for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 What sizes are you needing....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 1 hour ago, 7 wonders of the world said: What sizes are you needing....? Hi Neil, I will see if I can back out of the payment I made for the tappets yesterday. I should be able to order from Burton Power, as they ship to Canada. I need 2x 3.282mm, 1x 3.302mm, 1x 3.362mm, 2x 3.382mm, 1x 3.422mm, 4x 3.442mm, 2x 3.482mm & 3x 3.502mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Swindon offer some different sizes to Burton so may be worth checking both.. I needed some from each.... Shout if you need them forwarding.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 1 hour ago, 7 wonders of the world said: Swindon offer some different sizes to Burton so may be worth checking both.. I needed some from each.... Shout if you need them forwarding.. Thanks for the offer Neil, Burton are showing all the sizes I need as in-stock, just need to confirm the Canadian supplier hasn’t shipped anything yet and has cancelled my order. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 All successfully ordered from Burton Power now, with the addition of a new brass gear change saddle while I was at it. Unfortunately $456 vs $224 from the Canadian online Ford dealer, but expensive available parts are preferred over cheap unavailable ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 For future reference, I have compiled a list of all Ford and Mazda part numbers for the bucket tappets / cam followers. Duratec Bucket Tappet Part Numbers Thickness Tappet # Ford Part # Mazda Part # 3.000mm 000 CP9Z-6500-AAB LF01-12-541 3.025mm 025 CP9Z-6500-ABB LF01-12-542 3.050mm 050 CP9Z-6500-ACB LF01-12-543 3.075mm 075 CP9Z-6500-ADB LF01-12-544 3.100mm 100 CP9Z-6500-BAB LF01-12-545 3.122mm 122 CP9Z-6500-BBB LF01-12-546 3.142mm 142 CP9Z-6500-BCB LF01-12-547 3.162mm 162 CP9Z-6500-BDB LF01-12-548 3.182mm 182 CP9Z-6500-CAB LF01-12-549 3.202mm 202 CP9Z-6500-CBB LF01-12-551 3.222mm 222 CP9Z-6500-CCB LF01-12-552 3.242mm 242 CP9Z-6500-CDB LF01-12-553 3.262mm 262 CP9Z-6500-DAB LF01-12-554 3.282mm 282 CP9Z-6500-DBB LF01-12-555 3.302mm 302 CP9Z-6500-DCB LF01-12-556 3.322mm 322 CP9Z-6500-DDB LF01-12-557 3.342mm 342 CP9Z-6500-EAB LF01-12-558 3.362mm 362 CP9Z-6500-EBB LF01-12-559 3.382mm 382 CP9Z-6500-ECB LF01-12-561 3.402mm 402 CP9Z-6500-EDB LF01-12-562 3.422mm 422 CP9Z-6500-FAB LF01-12-563 3.442mm 442 CP9Z-6500-FBB LF01-12-564 3.462mm 462 CP9Z-6500-FCB LF01-12-565 3.482mm 482 CP9Z-6500-FDB LF01-12-566 3.502mm 502 CP9Z-6500-GAB LF01-12-567 3.522mm 522 CP9Z-6500-GBB LF01-12-568 3.542mm 542 CP9Z-6500-GCB LF01-12-569 3.562mm 562 CP9Z-6500-GDB LF01-12-571 3.582mm 582 CP9Z-6500-HAB LF01-12-572 3.602mm 602 CP9Z-6500-HBB LF01-12-573 3.625mm 625 CP9Z-6500-HCB LF01-12-574 3.650mm 650 CP9Z-6500-HDB LF01-12-575 3.675mm 675 CP9Z-6500-JAB LF01-12-576 3.700mm 700 CP9Z-6500-JBB LF01-12-577 3.725mm 725 CP9Z-6500-JCB LF01-12-578 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 Got my tappet order from Burton, so was going to get back on track on with the engine build this weekend: Unfortunately two of the tappets inside the boxes don’t match the box labels, they should be 3.482mm, but are actually 3.182mm: Oh well, I’m sure Burton Power will sort it for me on Monday, I’ve already emailed them, but don’t expect a reply until then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 2 steps forward... 1 step back.... Burton are open 0900-1700 on Saturdays so you might be able to push them to despatch the correct ones today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 46 minutes ago, 7 wonders of the world said: 2 steps forward... 1 step back.... Burton are open 0900-1700 on Saturdays so you might be able to push them to despatch the correct ones today... Thanks for that Neil, I will wake up earlier than usual for a Sat and give them a quick call, if they haven’t replied to my email. Hopefully not all of their stock of the 3.482mm tappets are mis-boxed 3.182mm ones. If so I could go up to 3.502mm and have 0.23 and 0.24mm clearances, instead of the ideal 0.25 and 0.26mm on the two tappets in question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 They checked the remaining stock of the 3.482mm tappets, also wrongly boxed. They are going back to their Ford supplier to sort out the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 I'm sure you have but have you popped the mic over them just in case they've just been mis etched size wise...it's a long shot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Swindon have a size either side.... Swindon powertrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 looking at the Burton labels these are over the OEM labels.... perhaps Burton have wrongly labeled them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 (edited) I think it is a Ford packaging problem, the part number underneath the Burton label is CM5E-6500-FDB, which corresponds to the 3.482mm tappet. I said to Burton that I would take a couple more of the 3.502mm ones (I already received 3 in the shipment), if they couldn't get the 3.482mm ones this week. I did put a mic on the 2 problem ones and every other one of the tappets I received when they arrived yesterday, definitely 3.182mm for the 2 problem ones (actually measured closer to 3.185), but all others are correct: Edited March 2 by aerobod - near CYYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 Besides reassembling the dry sump today, I did the modification to the timing chain tensioner to eliminate the ratchet mechanism: The ratchet spring plunger is held in place by an M8 grub screw with a screw driver slot in it. This is quite soft steel that resisted a tightly fitting screw driver, then turned to cheese when I tried an impact driver on it. So I drilled it out with an 8.5mm drill, then removed the spring and plunger. Modifying the tensioner for the manual adjuster it is not quite straight forward due to a couple of dimension issues: 1. The centre of the ratchet rod hole is only 5.25mm away from the edge of the spring loaded tensioner piston. M6 is about the largest bolt that can be used as an adjuster, but an M6 nut is too big. I used an M5 flange nut, turned the flange down to 10mm diameter and drilled it out and re-tapped it M6. The M6 bolt head was turned down to 8.5mm diameter and a file was used while in the lathe to put a dome on it. 2. The ratchet rod is in a 5.5mm diameter hole, so only about 40% of the M6 thread depth is cut. This is alleviated by ensuring the thread runs all the way to the rear hole that is used for the ratchet withdrawal pin, and using a 50mm long bolt to enable full engagement of that thread. I also spot-faced the rough casting surface under the flange nut to ensure a flat locking surface. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 (edited) It looks like 3.482mm tappets are now in the unobtanium category with no known stock or delivery date from Ford. I decided to substitute 3.462mm ones instead, as if I used 3.502mm, it would take my exhaust clearances to the range of 0.23 to 0.26mm which is perhaps a bit too tight considering Kent Cams specifies a 0.25mm exhaust tappet clearance compared with a standard Ford specified 0.30mm one. All inlet valves should be at 0.25mm clearance, with the exhaust clearances in the range of 0.25 to 0.28mm now. Kudos to Burton Power and Anthony for sorting out the issue very quickly, They should have the new tappets in the hands of DHL today. They also found other tappets in their stock that Ford had mis-labelled, too. Edited March 4 by aerobod - near CYYC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted March 4 Area Representative Share Posted March 4 Quote Kudos to Burton Power and Anthony for sorting out the issue very quickly, They should have the new tappets in the hands of DHL today. They also found other tappets in their stock that Ford had mis-labelled, too. Well done Burton but they should be grateful for your observation and Precision. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 (edited) In terms of the tappet / cam follower part numbers as they become increasingly difficult to source, there are alternatives numbers used in Europe vs North America for the Ford parts (CM5E vs CP9Z). Mazda also has more randomly assigned part numbers that supercede the LF- numbers, but I haven't fully investigated those and parts systems seem to be happy with searching for the original ones. I believe that new car usage of these may have ended in 2023 with the Ecoboost major redesign, but they are used on most of the 4-cylinder Ford and Mazda engines produced from 2001 to 2023 in 1.8, 2.0, 2.3 and 2.5 capacities. The Ford parts also have a nominal number inked on the top of the tappet ranging from 01 to 35, not sure if this is the same for the Mazda parts: Duratec Tappet Part Numbers Thickness Tappet # Ford Part # Inked # Mazda Part # 3.000mm 000 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-AAB 01 LF01-12-541 3.025mm 025 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-ABB 02 LF01-12-542 3.050mm 050 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-ACB 03 LF01-12-543 3.075mm 075 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-ADB 04 LF01-12-544 3.100mm 100 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-BAB 05 LF01-12-545 3.122mm 122 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-BBB 06 LF01-12-546 3.142mm 142 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-BCB 07 LF01-12-547 3.162mm 162 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-BDB 08 LF01-12-548 3.182mm 182 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-CAB 09 LF01-12-549 3.202mm 202 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-CBB 10 LF01-12-551 3.222mm 222 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-CCB 11 LF01-12-552 3.242mm 242 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-CDB 12 LF01-12-553 3.262mm 262 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-DAB 13 LF01-12-554 3.282mm 282 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-DBB 14 LF01-12-555 3.302mm 302 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-DCB 15 LF01-12-556 3.322mm 322 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-DDB 16 LF01-12-557 3.342mm 342 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-EAB 17 LF01-12-558 3.362mm 362 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-EBB 18 LF01-12-559 3.382mm 382 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-ECB 19 LF01-12-561 3.402mm 402 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-EDB 20 LF01-12-562 3.422mm 422 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-FAB 21 LF01-12-563 3.442mm 442 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-FBB 22 LF01-12-564 3.462mm 462 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-FCB 23 LF01-12-565 3.482mm 482 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-FDB 24 LF01-12-566 3.502mm 502 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-GAB 25 LF01-12-567 3.522mm 522 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-GBB 26 LF01-12-568 3.542mm 542 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-GCB 27 LF01-12-569 3.562mm 562 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-GDB 28 LF01-12-571 3.582mm 582 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-HAB 29 LF01-12-572 3.602mm 602 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-HBB 30 LF01-12-573 3.625mm 625 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-HCB 31 LF01-12-574 3.650mm 650 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-HDB 32 LF01-12-575 3.675mm 675 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-JAB 33 LF01-12-576 3.700mm 700 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-JBB 34 LF01-12-577 3.725mm 725 CP9Z / CM5E-6500-JCB 35 LF01-12-578 Edited March 4 by aerobod - near CYYC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 Now I have a complete set of tappets to install. Should have most of a day to work on the engine this weekend, perhaps will reach the point that it is ready to go back in the car: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Although I decided that I was too tired to fine tune the cam timing today, I now have the engine in a state that I can put it back on the engine crane to fit the flywheel and clutch and put it back in the car. I started off with the bits and pieces to fit the cams: Lots of assembly lube used on all surfaces that will be last to get oil pressure on engine start: With the cams in, the verniers are bolted on: Re-checking the valve clearances, I was lucky to get all inlet valves exactly at 0.25mm and the exhaust valves are all reasonable at between 0.25 and 0.28mm (0.25mm was the aiming point, but with the issue of bucket tappet availability, I elected to err on the high side with the exhaust valves): Valve # Tappet # Used Tappet Thickness (mm) Final Clearance (mm) Inlet 1 282 3.282 0.25 2 282 3.282 0.25 3 302 3.302 0.25 4 362 3.362 0.25 5 442 3.442 0.25 6 502 3.502 0.25 7 382 3.382 0.25 8 502 3.502 0.25 Exhaust 1 422 3.422 0.25 2 442 3.442 0.25 3 462 3.462 0.28 4 502 3.502 0.26 5 442 3.442 0.26 6 382 3.382 0.27 7 462 3.462 0.27 8 442 3.442 0.28 The timing bar is placed in the cam slots to lock them in the TDC position to set the basic timing with the teeth on the vernier pulleys chosen to put the clamping bolts close to the centre of the slots: The crankshaft TDC timing stop was also screwed into the side of the block in place of the blanking plug and the crankshaft is rotated against it, to match the cam positions that the timing bar has set: Before fitting the timing chain, the oil pump sprocket is fitted. Instead of using the special tool to hold the sprocket, an 8mm diameter rod can be used to stop the pulley rotating by holding against a bolt head on the pump body: The timing chain tensioner stop is now set by using a screw driver in a slot I had cut in the end of the stop, and adjusting until there is 10mm of slack in the chain between the vernier pulleys (all slack removed elsewhere by pushing down hard on the chain between the pulleys and working with the tensioner piston and spring removed): Once the piston and spring is back in the tensioner, the slack is moved back into the chain tensioner arm run by pushing hard on the bottom of the arm. The gap from the stop to the tensioner arm can then be checked with a wire style feeler gauge and confirmed to be 1mm when using a used chain, as suggested by SBD: The timing chain is now correctly tensioned and ready for the timing cover to be installed: After the normal faffing about with black RTV and the normal spreading it everywhere, followed by cleaning it off my iPad screen, the timing cover is bolted in place and the crankshaft bolt is tightened up. The bolt is initially torqued to 100Nm, then rotated an additional 90 degrees. Using my largest torque wrench that clicked at the maximum 360Nm when I had about 50 degrees of rotation on the bolt, I estimate it required 450Nm to reach the required 90 degrees. The special crankshaft pulley holding tool made the job easier than expected, as I could pull the tool and torque wrench towards the breaker bar and socket with much better stability than just trying to turn one lever: The timing cover height above the head is checked. At 0.13mm, it should seal fine with the small spot of RTV that is used on the join under the cam cover seal: I bought a standard Ford crankshaft sensor alignment tool, but it needed some fettling to fit the sensor used by Caterham, with the rear legs needing widening and the tooth width at 4.5mm compared with the 3mm the tool initially had: The tool was then used to centre a tooth on the sensor with the engine at TDC: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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