John Vine Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 5 hours ago, rgrigsby said: Incredible attention to detail, it's really interesting to read and see how you are getting on. Feels like you could turn this into a guide and publish it once done! I agree. Gripping stuff. Perhaps James plans to start a parallel career as an engine builder? JV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 9 minutes ago, John Vine said: I agree. Gripping stuff. Perhaps James plans to start a parallel career as an engine builder? JV I'm too old for that John, start getting my 2nd pension courtesy of HMG in another 16 months. I did receive a new set of lathe tools yesterday to replace all my worn out ones, so a bit of life left in my retirement tinkering, but not sure where that will take me yet. I tend to get bored doing the same technical thing more than once, though. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 (edited) This weekend was spent creating a few tools,, fitting the spigot bearing and alterations to the head oil feed and EGR channel blanking. The spigot bearing fitting tool (also doubling up as the clutch alignment tool) and the blanking plug for the S-VVT solenoid were machined: The blanking plug is a good sliding fit, tight enough to hold in the bearing cap when oiled and not fall out, but able to be fitted with hand pressure to avoid distorting the cap: A 23.1mm diameter x 7.3mm thick blank was machined and driven into the EGR feed hole in the #4 exhaust port. A bit of grinding was needed to flatten the bottom of the notch first, and then some exhaust copper sealing compound applied before the blank was driven in. It protrudes 0.3mm above the head surface, so with the 0.5mm exhaust gasket and a bit of copper sealing compound applied, the remaining slight gap will be sealed up. The edge of the blank will be smoothed when the head porting is done: The spigot bearing and fitting tool spent an hour in the freezer, with the end of the crankshaft heated with a heat gun for a few minutes before fitting the bearing. Only a couple of quick blows with a rubber mallet was needed to seat the bearing: The tool worked well to drive the bearing in 4.55mm deep (spec is 4.52mm +/-0.52mm). I did check then check again the seal was facing outwards: I created a jig to bolt to the end of the head to allow a milling cutter to be used to create a 12.7mm diameter flat. The jig was then flipped over to drill a 4mm hole right through the lateral oil gallery into the vertical S-VVT oil feed. The hole was then tapped M5 and a small grub screw clamped with a flange nut and red thread locker sealed up the outer part of the hole. The lower part of the S-VVT oil feed was threaded M10 so I can fit an M10 flange bolt with a copper washer: The main longitudinal oil gallery plugs on the back of the head were both drilled out and threaded M10 to allow proper cleaning of the oil galleries (thanks to 7WotW for the suggestion), they will also receive bolts with copper washers to seal them up again: The initial test with air and all cam bearing oil feeds except for #1 inlet sealed with tape showed that flow through the modified oil galleries works correctly. Edited January 8 by aerobod - near CYYC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 Last night I spent quite a while trying to solve a bit of a conundrum - are the Burton Power and Cosworth torquing instructions for the main bearing bolts correct, or is the Ford/Mazda Duratec manual correct? What I found in a Mazda forum is that there are two types of OEM bolt used, stretch bolts and non-stretch bolts. The stretch bolts are torqued beyond the yield point with 180 degrees of rotation after a 45Nm jointing torque with no thread lubrication (other than the protective coating the bolts are supplied with), the non-stretch bolts are torqued below the yield point with 90 degrees of rotation below a 20Nm jointing torque with oiled threads. The bolts from a Mazda perspective can be identified by length - 110mm shank for a stretch bolt, 104mm for a non-stretch bolt. The ones Raceline supplied to me are 110mm. Interestingly the Ford bolts I took out are 106.7mm long, probably 106mm nominal with a 0.7mm stretch from previous plastic torquing. These are the instructions I found on the Mazda forum, posted a number of years ago, the "Plastic region tightening bolt" matches with the Ford/Mazda Duratec manual instructions that I will use: Tightening torque Plastic region tightening bolt (Bolt stem length 110 mm) Standard: .................... 110.0-110.6 (4.33-4.35) Maximum: .................... 111.3 (4.38) (1) .................... 44 46 N-m (4.5-4.6 kgf-m, 32.5-33.9 ft-lbt) (2) .................... 175°-185° Elastic region tightening bolt (Bolt stem length 104 mm) (1) Apply engine oil to all bolts. (2) .................... 3-7 N-m (30.6-71.3 kgf-cm, 26.6-61.9 in-lbt) (3) .................... 23-27 N-m (2.4-2.7 kgf-m, 17-19.9 ft-lbt) (4) .................... 38-42 N-m (3.9-4.2 kgf-m, 28.1-30.9 ft-lbt) (5) Loosen all the bolts. (no remaining torque.) (6) .................... 3-7 N-m (30.6-71.3 kgf-cm, 26.6-61.9 in-lbt) (7) .................... 18-22 N-m (1.9-2.2 kgf-m, 13.3-16.2 ft-lbt) (8) .................... 87.5°-92.5° Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Hi James Interesting as I have alway used the Ford spec in the manual, this manual does list different procedures for hand tool and multi spindle applications though. Craddle bolts as follows: I lube threads with stock engine oil and allow to drain on absorbent cloth then lube under head (same lube) prior to fitting, torque to 45Nm 90 degrees 90degrees. the 45Nm the180 is for multi spindle applications I'm sure the Burton info with only 1 x 90 degree is incorrect as I tried the 45/90/90 procedure with an old block this time using ARP lube under the bolt head and it locked the crank due to the higher clamping load on the initial torque, components were stripped and clean and repeated with engine oil and all was fine, so if the Burton listing was correct and extra 90 degree would certainly lock the crank. However just to throw something else into the mix, I stripped my engine a few weeks ago and all the craddle bolts came out cleanly, however, when re torquing the craddle in preparation for reboring 1 bolt pulled the threads prior to even reaching 45Nm.... So I'be had my block machined and fitted with 30mm deep M14 inserts tapped out to M10x1.0 went together perfectly and is now being bored to 88mm. I have new Ford OEM craddle bolts which measure 106.75mm Ford part number 5 090 569 these are bagged and lightly coated in oil I will measure my old OEM ones (Which were obtained via Mazda) which have now undergone the maximum 3 uses when I get my block next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, 7 wonders of the world said: Hi James Interesting as I have alway used the Ford spec in the manual, this manual does list different procedures for hand tool and multi spindle applications though. Craddle bolts as follows: I lube threads with stock engine oil and allow to drain on absorbent cloth then lube under head (same lube) prior to fitting, torque to 45Nm 90 degrees 90degrees. the 45Nm the180 is for multi spindle applications I'm sure the Burton info with only 1 x 90 degree is incorrect as I tried the 45/90/90 procedure with an old block this time using ARP lube under the bolt head and it locked the crank due to the higher clamping load on the initial torque, components were stripped and clean and repeated with engine oil and all was fine, so if the Burton listing was correct and extra 90 degree would certainly lock the crank. However just to throw something else into the mix, I stripped my engine a few weeks ago and all the craddle bolts came out cleanly, however, when re torquing the craddle in preparation for reboring 1 bolt pulled the threads prior to even reaching 45Nm.... So I'be had my block machined and fitted with 30mm deep M14 inserts tapped out to M10x1.0 went together perfectly and is now being bored to 88mm. I have new Ford OEM craddle bolts which measure 106.75mm Ford part number 5 090 569 these are bagged and lightly coated in oil I will measure my old OEM ones (Which were obtained via Mazda) which have now undergone the maximum 3 uses when I get my block next week. Sounds good Neil, for OEM bolts I had concluded the Burton and Cosworth info was incomplete. I’ll be using the 45Nm/90/90 Ford spec in the manual for non-spindle tightening. I just finished drilling out the Advel plugs in the front and rear of the block and tapping them M10 for flange bolts. It is interesting extracting the remains of the Advel plugs inside the gallery, as it is too big to pass through the M10 threaded hole, but I found using a magnetic wand inserted up inside the oil filter adapter feed hole to the gallery managed to retrieve them with a bit of messing around. Will have to see if the fixed part of the chain guide clears the head of the flange nut on the front gallery plug, if not an M10 grub screw with red loctite will be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) I taped the small side gallery cess plug for M10 as the hole in 8.5mm with the entire Avdel removed steel centre and ally surround, The front and rear plugs are much bigger and you must remove all of the ally plug circa 16mm diameter and retap, I had mine tapped with a taper 3/4 BSP (-8 alt) with a plain BSP plug make sure the front plug is short enough so it doesn't partially obscure the feed to the chain tensioner. I knocked the steel centre thro then tapped out the front and rear plugs to accept a M12 bolt and made a simple puller with a suitable socket to pull the ally piece cleanly out. I will get some photos to you once my block is back Edited January 21 by 7 wonders of the world Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 4 minutes ago, 7 wonders of the world said: I taped the small side gallery cess plug for M10 as the hole in 8.5mm with the entire Avdel removed steel centre and ally surround, The front and rear plugs are much bigger and you must remove all of the ally plug circa 16mm diameter and retap, I had mine tapped with a taper 3/4 BSP (-12) with a plain BSP plug make sure the front plug is short enough so it doesn't partially obscure the feed to the chain tensioner. I knocked the steel centre thro then tapped out the front and rear plugs to accept a M12 bolt and made a simple puller with a suitable socket to pull the ally piece cleanly out. I will get some photos to you once my block is back With the larger block Advels I found there is enough meat on them to just tap M10, as the body is still firmly in place, the centre doesn’t do anything to hold it there after it has expanded it when fitted. If the plug body can take the 25Nm of torque I will put on the flange bolt, I will leave them as is I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 the steel centre will still be exerting a radial force thro the ally plug and they certainly take a good swift blow to move them, one of my ally plugs was tight to pull the other quite easy, at cold oil pressure they are likely to see near 15kg/f on them, I wasn't prepared to risk an engine on these so went for threaded gallery plugs sealed and secured with Loctite 270. The full diameter plug also provides a better opening for cleaning with less chance of debris getting retained behind the remaining ally plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 6 hours ago, 7 wonders of the world said: the steel centre will still be exerting a radial force thro the ally plug and they certainly take a good swift blow to move them, one of my ally plugs was tight to pull the other quite easy, at cold oil pressure they are likely to see near 15kg/f on them, I wasn't prepared to risk an engine on these so went for threaded gallery plugs sealed and secured with Loctite 270. The full diameter plug also provides a better opening for cleaning with less chance of debris getting retained behind the remaining ally plug. I will probably pull the Advel bodies with a 10mm bolt and remove with my slide hammer, as you say there will always be some doubt that the 3mm wall might not be enough without the Advel barrel in it. Will likely replace with M18x1.5 plugs as that is a commonly available size (if I need a low profile one I can machine it from some 25mm aluminium I have). The 3/8” NPT taper plug solution is just too small for the 16mm hole and 1/2” NPT looks a bit deep to not interfere with the chain tensioner oil feed, which is right behind the Advel plug body. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Finished off the head porting and smoothing today. I first started off with the old head to check the wall thickness around the water jacket around the spark plug hole, finding that I don’t want to completely remove the “bumps” in the inlet, as the wall thickness would be less than 2mm if I did, will remove about half the “bump” thickness and have more than 3.5mm wall thickness to the water jacket: Started off port-matching the exhaust, kept it to 41.5mm, about 1mm smaller than the header pipes and 3mm smaller than the exhaust gasket to allow for any slight misalignment and avoid a step, but still 25% larger area than the standard 37mm ports, the #4 port EGR interference-fit blank I made blended in nicely without the hassle of welding and re-machining the mating surface: The inlet ports were port-matched to the Jenvey 48mm throttle bodies next, ensuring the slight lip at the top was left intact, as there isn’t a lot of distance from the edge to the sealing O-ring: The exhaust valve seats in the combustion chamber have a lip about 1mm high that will impede flow at low valve openings, so this lip was rounded (lip removed on left, still in place on the right): The combustion chamber was then sanded (but not polished), removing about 0.1cc overall, so no significant effect on compression, old valves were put into the combustion chamber being worked on to avoid damage to the valve seats: The valve seats were then blended inside the ports, ensuring the “bumps” around the spark plug water jacket weren’t too aggressively flattened: The exhaust ports were then blended and slightly enlarged: Then the same was done to the inlet ports: With a knife-edge in the inlet to separate the flow between the two valves: The head is now ready for valve seat testing to see that they fully seal, then a full clean in hot soapy water and blow dry with an airline, before being ready for assembly: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 All looking good James, you will easily hit your target numbers, just check that all the mounting holes for the inlet manifold are tapped out M8 some heads have one which isn't depending on which OEM manifold was used, usually the lower hole between No 3 & 4. If you find that after porting the land supporting the O ring seal on the TB's is marginal you can fill this groove with chemical metal, flat off and seal with a fine bead of RTV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 1 minute ago, 7 wonders of the world said: All looking good James, you will easily hit your target numbers, just check that all the mounting holes for the inlet manifold are tapped out M8 some heads have one which isn't depending on which OEM manifold was used, usually the lower hole between No 3 & 4. If you find that after porting the land supporting the O ring seal on the TB's is marginal you can fill this groove with chemical metal, flat off and seal with a fine bead of RTV Thanks for the encouragement Neil, I’m glad the 20 hours of head fettling is over, probably the biggest single job in the build. I think I have at least 0.5mm to the groove of the closest part of the O-ring, hopefully no rework needed there, as I didn’t enlarge the ports vertically. The untapped blind hole on the inlet manifold has a fix on the way, I’m waiting for an Amazon alloy motorcycle M10 brake caliper bolt that will fill the first 15mm of the hole, bonded in with red loctite to the bottom of the hole, the head cut off, then drilled through 6.8mm and to the same depth in the head as the other holes, then tapped M8 for the longer throttle body bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 the head work is really quite therapeutic 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 The Advel main oil gallery plugs were easy to remove using an M10 thread I had put into each one. I estimated that it took about 3000N of force to pull them out using a few blocks to pull evenly as the M10 nut was tightened: The oil gallery to the chain tensioner is only 10mm behind the face of the block on the front face. On the rear face there isn't much more room to the rear main bearing oil gallery: In terms of the use of threaded plugs for the ends of the block main oil gallery, the rear plug has plenty of room for a head, so a flange bolt or even a standard hex bolt with a copper washer can be used. the nearest component is the flywheel about 20mm from the mounting face. The front plug dimensions have to be quite exacting, the head can protrude no more than 2mm from the block to avoid hitting the timing chain guide, the thread length can be no more than 10mm into the block to avoid blocking the timing chain oil gallery. This plug can be used without a washer and blue thread sealant should be enough to allow future removal, a slight oil weep is not a problem as it is in an oily area and it can't back out due to the timing chain guide over the top of it. I will make both plugs from 25mm 6061-T6 rod with M18x1.5 threads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 18 hours ago, 7 wonders of the world said: the head work is really quite therapeutic I find it similar to doing a 100 page technical consulting report - difficult to get started, good when in the groove and concentrating hard, satisfying when complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 The front is tight I just flowed the corner of the drilling to the tensioner too belt and braces. Just awaiting plugs for the rear of the head front one is factory drilled and capped with a washer at m12x1. 25. Rear holes once the Avdels are out are 9.1 so going to 9.9 and tapping for An - 4 ORB plugs with 243 on all 3.... No depth issues on these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 10 minutes ago, 7 wonders of the world said: The front is tight I just flowed the corner of the drilling to the tensioner too belt and braces. Just awaiting plugs for the rear of the head front one is factory drilled and capped with a washer at m12x1. 25. Rear holes once the Avdels are out are 9.1 so going to 9.9 and tapping for An - 4 ORB plugs with 243 on all 3.... No depth issues on these... With the Advel head holes on mine being 9mm about 12mm deep, then around 7mm beyond that depth, I just used M10x1.5 bolts that are 25mm long with copper crush washers. Amazon says I should have my M18x1.5 tap and die today, so I can make a jig this week to accurately tap the block holes. My plan is to force a 10mm hex key into a 10mm hole in a slice of 25mm 6061-T6 rod, then machine it and cut the thread, before pulling the plug off the hex key and dressing it with a small file for a sliding fit on the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 I will try an old dummy head first 9 is a little shy for a 1.5 pitch but should be more than man enough for the job.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 The blind hole between #1 and #2 cylinder inlets in the head is problematic for mounting Jenvey throttle bodies that require 7 bolt holes instead of the 5 holes used by the standard Ford inlet manifold. I used an M10x1.5 motorcycle aluminium brake banjo bolt to fill the blind hole that is 7.8mm diameter and only just over half the depth of the 24mm M8 threaded holes used for mounting the inlet manifold. I drilled a 6mm hole through the middle of the bolt to use as a guide, tapped the head blind hole M10 and then tightened in the bolt until it bottomed with red thread locker: The hole was then drilled diameter 6.8mm an additional 11mm deep into the head, the banjo bolt head cut off and the stub chamfered down to the head level, followed by tapping M8. It is now just the same as the other 6 inlet manifold bolt holes: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 (edited) Didn’t have much time to work on the engine this week, but managed to produce a couple of M18 oil gallery plugs for the block and using a jig, tap the block galleries. The hex was pressed into the end of the plugs by drilling a 10mm hole 10mm deep in the blanks cut 1mm longer than the plug depth, then abusing the vice with a rubber mallet to tighten a 10mm allen socket into the blank. Removing the blank from the bit took a bit more effort using wedges and a hammer. The rest of the plug was them machined to size and threaded M18x1.5. The jig has an M18 thread created squarely on the drill table, then clamps to a nearby hole to ensure the threads in the block are cut squarely: The thread on the front of the block has the timing chain tensioner oil gallery only 10mm below the surface, so the plug will only go that deep in the hole: The plug on the back of the block needs a copper washer due to being inside the bell housing and can have a 4mm thick head due to plenty of clearance to the flywheel: But the plug on the front of the block only has 2mm clearance under the timing chain guide, so has to have a thin head with no washer, but if it weeps it doesn’t really matter, as it is inside the timing case: While I had the lathe/mill covered in metal, I thought I would also machine the small relief needed in the top of the accessory belt tensioner, to clear the end of the Jenvey throttle body shaft: Edited January 29 by aerobod - near CYYC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Back from holiday this week, so while SWMBO was otherwise occupied, the bathtub in the guest bathroom seemed like a good place to thoroughly clean the major components. 4 hours of careful cleaning and lots of checking after blowing everything dry with the air line. It was surprising how much fine debris was cleaned out: I put in all the new oil gallery plugs and oil squirters, re-assembled the dry-sump baffles, oiled the cylinder bores and put the block back on the engine stand: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Guest room bathtub ! I used the dishwasher to clean some components once, my wife was only slightly surprised when I jumped up quick to empty it. Surprised but not suspicious, that's keeping it on the edge. 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 18 Area Representative Share Posted February 18 I would be a dead man utilising any domestic tub or sink for that ! Nearest I have ever got to that situation is a pair of wheels on the kitchen floor. Then I had to ensure complete protection of the granite floor tiles. Again, otherwise I would be a dead man. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 You're a brave man, James. If I pulled a stunt like that, I'd be toast (or, in your words, "fine debris")! JV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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