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Fitting a RADTEC radiator to K Series. Help please....


Rullingen

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Hi,

I'm fitting a new Radtec radiator to my 2007 K Series which is already fitted with a QED remote thermostat.

The outgoing stock radiator has a smaller outlet at the top next to the inlet where there is a vent pipe returning to the top of the header tank. The incoming Radtec item does not have this connection.

It's hard to believe they would have forgotten to fit it, so where should I route the vent pipe to?

Thanks, Rob.

 

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Rob, I had the opposite conundrum when I fitted a replacement Caterham branded aluminum radiator to my 1996 1400 K series. The new radiator had the small spigot for a vent tube (to the expansion tank), the original radiator of the early design, didn't.

The solution for me was to update my vent plumbing and introduce a tee-piece into the vent tube from the engine (manifold/head) to the expansion tank, and connect the vent from the Rad to that tee, with some new hose. Result - no more K series air locks on refill or ever!

Presumably you could do the reverse? Remove the tee in the tubing to the expansion tank, and just have a single run of vent tube from the expansion tank to the engine?

Then on refill bleed the system the old-school way as detailed at length in the archives (Peter Carmichael had the definitive solution - Jack the front up, disconnect top hose from Rad, back-fill engine and system through top hose, and top up and bleed via bleed-tee that needs to be fitted next to heater top hose, if you have a heater (at highest point in the system) - lots in the archives.

When I researched the fitment of my new Rad I did noticed that some members had improvised a vent into an un-vented K series Rad with appropriate adaptor sleeve between the Rad and the Fan switch so as to allow a vent outlet. Perhaps you could do this as an alternative, to keep your current vent plumbing, and someone else can advise what you need for that?

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Thanks for the help.

 

It does seem that, as suggested above, the pipe that went to the top of the radiator is omitted, and the pipe that tee'd in to it from the block now goes straight to the header tank.

 

The new radiator requires bleeding from the bleed screw on the top left of the rad.

 

Let's hope it works.....

 

Best regards, Rob.

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