Neil AB Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 I have sheared the bolt in the lower offside engine mount. As there is a small amount protruding I am thinking of welding a nut the stub and hoping the heat will help to free up the thread. Alternatively I could drill it out. Has anyone got any suggestions or previous experience. The engine is a VVC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanO Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Might be worth trying an 'easy out'. This is a link to the Hilka version, but there are others.https://hilka.co.uk/6-pce-screw-extractor-set-37855006.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Opinions on easy-outs / thread extractors varies. Many reports of them snapping off leaving you with an even bigger headache!I think try the welded nut approach - if that fails then drill it out. I'd be inclined to try and make a jig so you drill it centre and square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Left handed drills are another recommended tool. The heat they generate and turning counter clockwise can sometimes undo the snapped bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Looks like you may get mole grips on the end of that. If not, you have good access so I'd try a left handed drill. If that doesn't work you will still have a stub to weld totry tapping it round with a punch first though..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Or drill a small hole in the end and hammer a TorX bit into it. Apply some PlusGas to the thread beforehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 I'd go with tapping it round with a punch, or the corner of a chisel first. They're not usually difficult to turn once the tension has been taken off (when it snapped) unless badly oxidised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 First I'd try Andrews suggestion. If that does not work, then Ians. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted March 10, 2021 Area Representative Share Posted March 10, 2021 Above all, don't spare the PlusGas (there is yellow top WD40 which addresses the issue too - different to the standard red top WD40). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Yellow top wd40, Ididn't know about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted March 10, 2021 Area Representative Share Posted March 10, 2021 It may see a minor point but what I noticed particularly between the WD40 & PlusGas was the quality of the spray mechanism & control was significantly better from WD40. PlusGas (last year) was still using the separate straw, plug it into the spray head technique (it was rubbish) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry M Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 This happened to me whilst driving. I assume one of the engine mounting bolts worked loose and came out causing extra stress on the other one which then sheared off. This resulted in the engine dropping slightly and the sump hitting the ground and cracking spilling oil on the road. It got worse because there was not enough space around the engine whilst in situ. to effect a removal of the sheared bolt, so engine out job to remove said bolt stub. Nightmare outcome for what started with such a trivial issue. I periodically check the engine mounting bolts now to make sure that they are locked up tight. Be warned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil AB Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Thanks for the advise. I will get some of the specialist WD40.The stub is still solidly in place and the chisel has no effect. I am just waiting for a friend to turn a drill guide for me so I can accurately drill the center out of the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Placing a nut over it and squirting it with the MIG welder will give you a better chance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Any news on extrication? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil AB Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 I have tried the mig welder and nut approach, the stub sheared another 7mm in, at the point where the tread enters the block.I then used the guide I had made to center drill the stub and left it to soak in the WD40 penetrating solution overnight, soaking from the front and back of the threads I have now given a No4 Dormer stud extractor a lot of abuse, the stub is not moving at all.There is some damage on the mating surface of the top fixing and the engine mount bracket suggests that the top bolt was doing all the work. I think at some point in the past the lower bolt was tightened up and seized before it was fully seated.At the moment I think a Helicoil is the only option I have left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Did you soak it before trying the MIG and nut..?Is the block a bare block or complete engine....?If the later an engineering company can plunge mill the remainder out dead centre on a vertical miller.It possible it was built with debris in the hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick T Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 welding a nut would probably work, but I have used the technique in #6 on more that one occasion and find it better than a easy out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick T Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Sorry Just read the update, I would still try a Torx bit though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Wurth Rost Off Plus was the stuff we used in the aero engine workshop, seemed better than the regular suspects, especially if dissimilar metals are involved. Not sure if you can get it in UK but it's a German brand, so probably available somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 I've also found the Wurth Rost Off range better than most. Tends to be stocked by decent motor factors but readily available online. I'm guessing the above is maybe beyond sprays now but the 'Ice' and 'Blue Ice' from the range are freeze and crack products which worked well for me recently when stripping a Stuart marine engine that had been underwater and then in a barn for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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