AlanO

Is it possible to carry 2 or 3 house bricks in the boot and use them to hold the shower cap down, using the loops which would previously wrapped under the old style rear lights?

Found it! Thanks, much appreciated.

The new site looks really good and I've been spending some time getting around - signing up to the areas etc. One thing, in Simon Houghton's email he mentions "We suggest you click follow the Area Rep news/blog". I cant find it! Can you point me in the right direction please?

Think you've sorted me out thanks James (and others). Went over everything you mentioned and found the most likely cause was that the throttle pedal stop wasnt adjusted allowing the throttle blade to open too far and jamming/sticking. Well I think it's sorted! Since adjusting the stop and greasing the cable etc everything seems hunky-dory!! Cheers!

I'm revisiting this thread as I still have a tickover problem, although slightly different.. The tickover became more erratic and on the F&C run it continually cut out at junctions/light etc (it would die as soon as revs settled at about 1,100rpm). It started fine following each cut out but wouldn't tick over. The cutting out was solved with a change of lambda sensor but now the tickover settles at anything up to 2,000rpm. I'll pull up at lights for example, and it'll be revving away. At cold and until run for 30mins or so it ticks over fine and settled at about 1,000rpm. It has a locked Caterham ECU. Do I: a) Download Easymap, buy a cable and try to identify the issue? (I'd learn a bit about the car more but may not actually be able to fix the problem, or b) Get it back to Caterham who 'should' be able to fix it, or c) take it elsewhere? (where? I'm in Hertfordshire) Cheers.

I'll update as time goes on or if the problem reoccurs. Just to recap, the problem worsened the longer the run rather than when it attained a certain temp. (Beyond an hours running or so). Anyway, the 5 depressions may well have cleared a mechanical problem rather than reset the ECU and given what I now know I'll first check mechanical issues if it reoccurs. And the experience and your comments have been most helpful. Thank you!

Thanks Tom, putting my foot on the throttle at start up is something I may habe inadvertently done. Very difficult to get out the habit!

Well it worked for me! I'd previously opened the throttle in car and by hand 'under the bonnet', checked its physical peration etc with no improvement so I'm bewildered by your thoughts. Anyway cars back to normal and I'm a happy bunny. Cheers.

Well it worked for me! I'd previously opened the throttle in car and by hand 'under the bonnet', checked its physical peration etc with no improvement so I'm bewildered by your thoughts. Anyway cars back to normal and I'm a happy bunny. Cheers.

Just by way of an update, mainly in case others have similar troubles... The car got worse on the way to Aberdovey, hunting or fluctuating tickover, cutting out every time the car stopped etc. Well last nights bedtime reading of past Blatchats and a couple of useful blogs suggested first trying the 'throttle reset'. (Ign on, 5 slow full depressions of the accelerator, ign off. Then start). We'll I'm pleased to say that it did the trick and we drove home without incident and the car resting and a nice gentle idle at lights etc. Many thanks!

Thanks. You've set me off reading past blatchat posts and learning TPS settings! https://www.caterham7diaries.com most helpful!!

Helpful thanks. I wondered about remapping as have checked throttle action. Will investigate for air leak and see how it goes on F&C run.

270 R (2020 build). Help please. All's fine and dandy until its run for an hour or so and then the tickover starts to play up. Normally it's at just over 1000rpm but after a longish run it climbs to 2000rpm. Flicking the throttle takes it back down but invariably it climbs again. It occasionally cuts out completely when stationary and on other occassions it 'hunts' (pulsing between 1000 to 1300rpm) when stationary) It runs at steady 80°. Any clues please. Thanks.

That's what I'm intending to do T-Bone #13. Hoping for good weather next Saturday (Penn7 meet up) for a final run before SORN for the winter. Quite looking forward to getting through a longish list of jobs over the winter

Yep, I've got the ACF50 ready! Thanks, I've a clear picture of what I need to do.

I'm going to take my 270 of the road for a few months Dec - April. I'm pretty OK regarding how to store it (axle stands, handbrake off, battery indoors on charge etc) but unsure about fuel. The advice online seems to be to keep fuel in to avoid rusting/oxidisation but to add a stabiliser to avoid the fuel going 'gungy' and creating blockages. With fuel in I'll also be able to run it if needs be and avoid decanting fuel. So, my question; do people use a fuel stabiliser and if so what do you recommend please? Thanks.

Jonathan, appreciate I'm hijacking the post but can you post details of how best to search Blatchat please. Many thanks.

I read through the original thread and it sounds just brilliant, "London dawn raid"! Did the London blat in 2019 take place? And is the original route still available? Thinking of doing something similar.

On my to do list (lessons learnt); A) fit battery immobiliser B) fit voltmeter/battery monitor C) include electrical connections with regular 'spanner checks' D) check battery levels with other liquid checks.

Feel a bit of a numpty for not having spotted earlier that one of the alternator connections has burnt out, presumably been loose for some time, overheated and corroded. Cleaned it up back to bright metal for a temporary repair and battery now reading 13+volts with engine running. Looking on the bright side, learned a bit more about the car, and learned from everyone who offered suggestions & help.

Hi Stephen. I've learnt the phrase, TADTS!! But a bit peeved it's looking like the alternator and so something so basic. Never mind, we'll get there!

Hi Scott. Yes, voltmeter didn't flicker when revs increased up to 3,000rpm. Stayed on 12v all the time. I assume an alternator issue (or regulator?) but in any case I'll speak with CC tomorrow. I'll also remove battery, charge it and see if it holds charge.

Hi Scott. Yes, voltmeter didn't flicker when revs increased up to 3,000rpm. Stayed on 12v all the time. I assume an alternator issue (or regulator?) but in any case I'll speak with CC tomorrow. I'll also remove battery, charge it and see if it holds charge.

Battery voltage 13.4 when charged. 50min run and at 3,000 rpm shows 12v so suspect alternator issue. Thanks for your suggestions and help everyone.

Battery voltage 13.4 when charged. 50min run and at 3,000 rpm shows 12v so suspect alternator issue. Thanks for your suggestions and help everyone.