First the brake light N/S didn't work. in trying to fix it the fuel pump is not working

[arty]

yes thanks john, i don't know why the stop light is now working - dirty cointact maybe, all i can think of. I'll write some notes for myself in case it happens again. yes indicator new but i have cut a wire as described earlier in first attempt at diagnosis. So first thing is to order a new male connector - econoseal,, although i'm going to get a new back light unit too to make sure earth is fine as its only going to get worse.

 

[John Vine]

Re #26:

So, you've swapped one problem for another!  That's life.

As mentioned earlier, the connector for the light assembly is a 4-way male Econoseal, available from Polevolt, and complete with terminals and seals. 

You need to be aware that, to fit these terminals properly, you'll want a crimping tool (also available from Polevolt as TT351 -- a posh ratchet jobbie, but not cheap!).  A cheaper alternative (the one I use) is the W-HT-1921 by GC Waldom.

Both of these will form the correct "B"-section crimp.  Don't be tempted to use pliers to squeeze the terminal tabs together as they won't apply the necessary pressure, or form the correct (and secure) "B" crimp. 

If you plan to replace the whole light assembly, you won't need a new connector (or crimp tool) as it comes with one already attached.

JV

 

[John Vine]

Re #23:

...becaus i cut a wire...

What was the colour of the wire you cut?  And was the cut between the connector and the light assembly, or the other side of the connector?

JV

[John Vine]

Hi Arty,

Thanks for your message, in which you said: "i need to make up a new connector. I cut the green wire before the connector to measure voltage. "

I'm assuming that "before" means between the light assembly and the male 4-way connector?  If that's the case, it certainly explains why the indicator doesn't work, as the green wire is the 12v supply to the indicator bulb. 

Do you still intend to replace the whole light assembly?  If so, you won't need a new connector at all (unless it's damaged in some way) as the assembly comes complete with the 4-way male plug.

However, if you do intend to replace connector, you have a choice:

1. Replace just the terminal carrying the green wire
2. Replace the entire male plug

Either way, please note the comments in #27 re crimping.  You'll also need a special tool (or, failing that, a small jeweller's screwdriver) to lift the locking barb and extract the terminal.

 

Some thoughts about the inertia switch:

In #23, you say:

...i think that i don't have an inertia switch, so if you can't find yours don't worry.

Personally, I'd be very nervous of driving a fuel-injected 7 without an inertia switch.  Its sole purpose is to cut the fuel supply in the event of serious impact.  Without one, there's a distinct risk of self-immolation should fuel spray over hot engine components or damaged wiring!  If you still can't locate one, it would be wise to ask PT whether or not they can recall a switch being fitted.

JV

 

[John Vine]

Hi arty,

I've just re-read the whole of this thread and confess to being even more confused.

Re #1:

...i thought it could be the bullet connector so i cut the wire to test the wire without the bullet connector.

Re #12:

I cut the brake light wire because of the low reading in the block and wanted to test the wire itself.

Those two comments make me think after all that your cut was on the main-harness side of the 4-way connector, rather than (as I'd assumed in #29) on the light-assembly side.  Is that right?  Of course, the wire you cut now seems to be the indicator wire rather than the brake-light wire (see wiring diagram below).

Re #26:

So first thing is to order a new male connector

If you did indeed cut a harness wire, and you want to replace the harness half of the Econoseal connector, you'll need the female connector and not the male (see the link in #16).  But if you want to replace just the terminal, proceed as in #29.

Re #29:

I cut the green wire before the connector to measure voltage.

That also confused me.  According to the wiring diagram, there are no solely green wires entering the female Econoseal connector from the main harness.  However, there are two partly green wires:

• Green/Purple (GP) for the Stop bulb
• Green/Red (GR) for the Indicator bulb
  
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(viewed from cable entry)

I'm wondering whether you cut the GR wire?

JV

 

 

 

[7 wonders of the world]

JV,

Most ECU's only put an earth for the fuel pump relay when they sense a crank impulse, so in the event of an accident, the engine either stops upon impact, therefore the pump is stopped, or the fuel line breaks, which again stops the engine and so the fuel pump stops.

 

[elie boone]

I once found a duff connection between wire and bullet connector inside the rear light, as it had a little hole on the end of it all that needed was just a bit of solder to solve it.

[John Vine]

Re #31:

That's a good point, Neil.  I hadn't thought of it that way.

JV

[John Vine]

Re #32:

...bullet connector...

Do you mean something like this:

I'd assumed that, when the OP mentioned this term (in #1), he was referring to one of the Econoseal terminals.  Perhaps he meant something different, but I can't see any of this type of connector inside my own rear-light assemblies -- the wires go directly into the lamp sockets.

Do some rear lights use these connectors? 

JV

[elie boone]

I don't know the age of the headlights but it had this connector for earth if i recall correct

 

[John Vine]

Thanks, elie. 

This pic shows the earth connection on my rear lights (old ones, now replaced by JAL LED units):

I imagine the OP's lights are the same (on a 2014 car).

JV

[arty]

Hi JV,

I have bought the JAL lights from harrie so that should sort out the earth considerations and future probs

I cut what looks like a green and  black wire on the harness side. Yes it looks like 124in your orientation.

Connectors are confusing in description because the maile plastic connector has female fittings.

Anyway thanks to you i have ordered and male and female set from Polevolt - i am impressed they include all the bits and i don't have to figure out what theya re called.I've also bought the tool to remove connections as i'm sure it'll come in handy.

 

[John Vine]

Hi arty,

That sounds like progress.

...JAL lights...

Bear in mind you'll need JAL's LED indicator relay too.

I cut what looks like a green and  black wire on the harness side. Yes it looks like 124in your orientation.

124 in the wiring diagram is GR (Green/Red) -- the indicator wire.

Connectors are confusing in description because the maile plastic connector has female fittings.

I don't really understand that.  In the 4-way male connector, the pins insert into the female terminals, and the plastic carrier slides into (that is, inside) the female carrier. 

I've also bought the tool to remove connections...

That should make things a lot easier.  Have you managed to beg/borrow/buy a crimp tool as well, to attach the terminal to GR124?

 

Good luck with the repair!

JV 

[7 wonders of the world]

Any news on the rear JAL LED  lights being having full E mark approval yet....?

I have mentioned this before but there's still nothing on the site, no disclaimer, etc only a reference to being supplied with E marked lens.... bearing in mind peoples concerns over having invalid insurance should their car be stored without a current MOT I think this point needs addressing.

As previously mentioned in a previous role I came across cases where insurance did not cover people who had been rear ended, were there a disclaimer maybe along the lines of  'for show use' then buyers could make their own decision but I think the current information could lead people to believe these lights are fully road legal - which they are not.

I fully accept these are brighter etc etc than the stock caravan lights and are exceptionally well made, but buyers or indeed the seller could find themselves in a lot of grief should the worst happen. 

[Wrightpayne]

Having seen the recent Crash scene investigators program on TV, the specialist police officers go into incredible detail when there is a fatality / serious injury. One test is to check the brake light filaments as these tend to disintegrate in an impact when the brakes are on. Filaments present often mean brakes were not applied.

[7 wonders of the world]

.....in which case they will look for E markings on lights and lens and then check if the complete light assembly meets these requirements... if not its a hole through which insurers will wriggle....

[Wrightpayne]

Indeed!