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2013 car for sale in North Yorkshire, Converted from academy car by PT sportscars including a new gearbox. I've used it as a road car for general driving including going camping and climbing, just a more fun way of getting about than a car. Its had an easy life with me. Full roof, half roof, JAL rear lights and number plate light, fog and reverse lights. Orange colour with black stripes, you'll have seen plenty of pictures. 2 replacement tyres, 5 gears, lowered floor. Tonnaeu included but never fitted and some fixtures need fitting to it to fit to car. Oh and i still have the cage if you want that too. Its fitted with a road bar as its better for lashing luggage to that a track bar. I'm after £20k but you can offer me a bit more if you feel its too little.

Hi JV, I have bought the JAL lights from harrie so that should sort out the earth considerations and future probs I cut what looks like a green and black wire on the harness side. Yes it looks like 124in your orientation. Connectors are confusing in description because the maile plastic connector has female fittings. Anyway thanks to you i have ordered and male and female set from Polevolt - i am impressed they include all the bits and i don't have to figure out what theya re called.I've also bought the tool to remove connections as i'm sure it'll come in handy.

Hi i'd like the JAL rear led's with coloured lenses please if they are in very good condition. I had been in conversation with JAL about the upgrade kit and he didn't reply to whether the back plate still corrodes with water ingress. With the kit you keep you r old back plate -complete in my case with slightly corroded earth

sent you a pm

yes thanks john, i don't know why the stop light is now working - dirty cointact maybe, all i can think of. I'll write some notes for myself in case it happens again. yes indicator new but i have cut a wire as described earlier in first attempt at diagnosis. So first thing is to order a new male connector - econoseal,, although i'm going to get a new back light unit too to make sure earth is fine as its only going to get worse.

pop round to mine tuck - presume you are in n yorks . nights tonight home tomorrow

Hi all. Thanks for help. I've got it started. For anyone using this thread i think that i don't have an inertia switch, so if you can't find yours don't worry. Fuel pump is at the tank, i couldn't see it at engine end. When you start fiddling have a pice of paper and write down what you do so you can undo it. I think i must have reached behind wheel arch to another connector and disconnected it to test something, prob late and in the dark with a torch. It wasn't until i removed the boot base to search for fuel pump that i saw it was disconnected. Car started. Now all i have wrong is a N/S indicator that doesn't work. Hopefully becaus i cut a wire so i need to buy a new male connector or work out how to take apart the one i have a re use it. All best thanks to all

/hi JV, thanks for your support, yes its an ex race car converted by PT sorts cars. I've had it for a few years now without much problem. It was all running fine until i tried to fix the rear stop light which was showing weak voltage to the stop light only at the wire [ i cut the wire to test if it was the connector block] because ignition was on a lot for testing and fiddling. i think that is related to not now starting. II've a local helpful garage who would love to have a go at figuring it out... but thats not the point and its rather like giving up. I've checked the 20 fuses in the block more than once and swopped a few relays that are labelled as being the same.

thanks, i can clearly see what you have shown but i just can't find it. Maybe i have to ask PT sports cars who did my conversion. Buts its several years ago now without any problems so not sure they will remember

johnathon kay asked me to post voltages on public page I had had it on charge whilst trying to get it going so thought i'd better rest it before testing and recording I have 12.4v on the terminals of banner battery I have 9.8 when turning over. I intend to use another battery to see if it will work then but need some longer jump leads first so i don't have to disconnect and lose radio settings on my van.

As to mulitmeter readings i've a low battery warning on it. Google search suggests that could be why i am still reading 16v. I'll get a new battery. Re - SM25T- i can't find this Are they on Sigmas? There is a red collared push in pull out thing just above the starter motor attached to engine i think [ its tight to see down there]. It just freely moves in and out. Red collasr suggests it should be 'in' to me. What is it? I've found a corroded white wire but complete at back of rev meter where a junction was in for shift lights i'm guessing? All other lights work confirmed i've checked all the fuses in the box for resistance with my multimeter and they confirm my eyesight of being ok, I've looked for an in line fuse but can't see any Back on it tomorrow after night shift tonight

Hi John 1 Its a 2014 2 yes to replace the connector at present with better or similar 3 to re check, It was on battery terminals 4 tail light lit up and indicator worked but not stop light. Yes the bulb ok as swopped them over to check. Also i used the earth on the ok O/S when using multimeter but it didn't help. I cut the brake light wire because of the low reading in the block and wanted to test the wire itself. There is plenty of cable to refit a new connector block. Reading still low on the wire 5 yes the earth in light assembly , the joint one that they all share. 6 other lights work

I have to go away for work for 2 days so will get back onto my problem on monday. Thanks you all your help so far

Hi guardian angel, I don't know what the inertia switch is or where?

I am assuming here that because i had the ignition on for a while so the current will flow when the brake pedal depressed [whilst i checked for current with multimeter], that the relay has broken. The car won't start. Turns over. I can't here the fuel pump operating when the ignition switched on. I tried swopping some of the relays over- the 4 that i could find that are all the same but it didn't work although at one time i thought i could smell petrol. Ii ran it yesterday in prep fpr the MOT today which i had to cancel. Its a Sigma VCT. All that was wrong to start was a low reading for volts? [5] in the n/s. It was 15 on the offside. The rear light worked but the earth doesn't look great. After a couple of hours and reading on here i thought it could be the bullet connector so i cut the wire to test the wire without the bullet connector. But its even worse reading about 3 now. I could do with advice on how to find the fuel pump relay and recommended connector block for 4 wires please.I reckon i'll change the back light too.

This is out of date now. thanks

these llok like just the job thank you

Hi all, Someone is selling 4 wheels that i'd love to buy but they are collection at Raglan services and i am in north yorkshire. I have friends in various places if anyone is travelling from there and could help. Obvs i'd pay towards your fuel. Church stretton, Wolverhampton, Sheffield, Congleton ,bury, leeds - any of those locations could suit me. I'm in the yorkshire dales

Hi, i've nearly tried to sell my car a few times but when i bought it i always intended to get it to 140bhp. I was told once that it was a fairly simple [cheap] jog for a sigma VCT. I live in the yorkshire dales . Can anyone recommend anywhere within 100 miles or so please.

Fantastic. Cold and dark. Eyes looking through the dark bend as the lights sweep round and catxh up. I love driving in the dark. No street lihhrs just the moon. 4 dehreea half hood. Then tp finish 16 miles all the way to my drive without a mother vehicle either direction. Winter it's worth it. .

Hi Simon, me agqin [although may have changed my ID as so much IT stuff says to hide from ID] Anyway i was busy when i contacted you before.It measures ok with my car,how about 130 including postage?

I had a cloncking all last year and this winter discovreed that the tank was not clamped sufficiently so i am hoping it is that. Mine is clamped with a threaded bar and even with quite a bit of effort it is clamped but not quite perfect. Just going to revisit it as time goes on

You were right Jim, it was as good as empty. Not dry but it would need a dipstick. Got my light actually fixed and working, removed extinguisher pipe, replaced tunnel. ACF'ed seat runners and seat footwell, changed a harness that i had. Will prob fit carpet to behind seats tomorrow. Wow that car can suck up some time. No diy ing done and now its running training.

Thanks Jim, thought there would be something else to do.. as ever

Success - Conclusion in case anyone reads this as i did for the previous thread [Marcus?] I completed at continuity test to the blue wires that emerge from the switch on the LHS of gearbox. No reading in neutral, reading in reverse. I connected these to the loom and completed a live test at the rear Econoseal connector in the boot. The same positive results were experienced, no reading in neutral, positive reading in reverse. Going to ring Redline for an econoseal connector for my new reverse light. The reverse switch IS the one at the left side of the gearbox, mounted vertically downwards. It has 2 blue wires wrapped in black held in place on the top of the gearbox and terminated with female spade connectors with black plastic fittings. Mine were attached to the other similar blue wires from the switch on the top. I detached this connection and connected the pair of spade connectors[black plastic] with those that were tied up out of the way at the top of the tunnel, one of which was a permanent live. As a result the wiring now is as diagram colourwise located in the Nearside of the tank taped with the lighting cable. Many thanks all who helped me get to this point, particulalry Jim and Johnathan. Main lesson is just because two connections are made with suitable connectors doesn't mean they should be. I hope this conclusion helps someone else.