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DIY Guide: Sump Guard for CSR (and possibly other metric Series 3 cars)


Shortshift

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Thanks, James. 

Fear not, your basic design remains intact.  I might go for a base plate 250mm deep.  It depends on the best place to locate the clamps (which are due to arrive this week).

Btw, the "alum-droitwich" people were very helpful.  They include two cuts FOC, and 50p/cut thereafter.  At that price, I'll send them the exact measurements.

More news later.

JV

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I did think about making a sump guard a few years ago but decided not to on the basis that a cracked sump is probably easier to fix than a bent chassis, that is provided you don't end up driving with insufficient oil. I still think that is true but a guard made from a thin sacrificial material should at least reduce an impact while not damaging the chassis. Perhaps a mesh of some sort would work as it would allow a cooling airflow, have little impact transfer to the chassis and be lightweight. Without full testing facilities it may be better to play it safe and under specify the strength of the components.

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Re #51:

Hi James,

An update...

The clamps arrived today.  I attached them loosely to the cruciform to get an idea of the best shape for the base plate.  The first thing that became clear was that the S3 cruciform is different to the CSR one.  There's room for a deeper plate, and one that avoids having to file or round off the rear clamps.

I ended up ordering (from alum-droitwich, as recommended):

  • Base plate: 400x250x6, to be cut (FOC) to 330 one side and 250 the opposite side
  • Impact plate: 250x250x2 (chequer plate), to be cut (FOC) to 230x240

While I'm waiting for these to arrive, I'm going to mock up the base plate in stiff cardboard, and use it to fix the positions of the clamps.

More news later.

JV

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  • 3 weeks later...

An update...

So far, I've drilled the main holes in the base plate:

IMG_20200617_182609.thumb.jpg.0b0719015f29359aba71de60d85faac6.jpg

The plate is quite a bit deeper than yours:

Baseplatedimensions_3.jpg.df8c16d2c9160f1636540fd53f3c20b4.jpg

I managed to make a bit of a cock-up with the order from the alum-droitwich people.  I thought I'd included cutting instructions when I paid via PayPal, but somehow I failed to click "Add".  That cost me return postage, and then the diagonal cuts were extra as well!

The next step is to bolt the base plate onto the cruciform and work out where the impact plate should go.  I ordered some 2mm chequer plate but it's so difficult to bend I ordered some 1.5mm plain plate.

More news later....

JV

 

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John,

If you anneal the chequer plate it will make it much easier to work,

Coat the bend area with soap (fairy of similar) heat form the other side with a blow touch evenly until the soap turns dark brown - almost black.

Allow to cool (don't quench)

work until it becomes obvious its hardened, then clean with wire brush to bright metal and repeat the above.

*wavey* 

 

 

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Re #58:

That's a good tip, Neil. Thanks.

I bought the chequer plate because that's what James used.  The 1.5mm plate has a smooth surface, which I'm hoping will give a better ride to any oncoming flints, rocks or cat's-eyes.  Mind you, I won't be seeking an active road test!

JV

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Well, I've pretty well completed the guard.   I'm just waiting for the paint on the wooden packing blocks to dry.

Base plate with all holes drilled:

Baseplate_drilled.thumb.jpg.d2256f19965449aaf39ec7351d801515.jpg

Impact plate:

Impactplate.thumb.jpg.d2cc514ba6cfe2a94fcb27c837472928.jpg

Assembled plates (I decided it would be easier to retain the straight sides, so no fancy curves, I'm afraid):

Platesassembed.thumb.jpg.5878c71c40a778e0968e221145dfbd2d.jpg

Top side of base plate with clamps:

Baseplatewithclampsfitted.thumb.jpg.074f749c2c2d68461e064031a55aa13b.jpg

Packing blocks (in sexy red, to match my horns!):

Packingblocks.thumb.jpg.f660710b09c64100b796f1dfd86202f9.jpg

I had to make two smaller blocks as my mitre saw wasn't big enough to take one big block.

Weights:

  • Base plate 1170g
  • Clamps 400g (4x 100g)
  • Impact plate 220g

That makes about 1.5kg including screws etc.

I've fitted the plates to the car, and will be fitting the blocks tomorrow.

JV

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
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Replying to #71:

"No doubt James will be along soon to add his comments..."

I actually sold my CSR at the end of 2020 so I'm not able to offer any further comment, I'm afraid.  Except that the royalty fees from the international licensing deals are very welcome... *rofl*

James

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I like it but I think the design would benefit from something softer than a lump of wood. Builders expanding spray foam might work as it would fill any gaps perfectly and can be easily drilled and cut when set. Too much force pushed into the cruciform could work out more expensive than a cracked sump.

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Feel free to try it, though I suspect you are slightly misunderstanding (a) the 'lift and slide' dynamics and (b) the strength and stiffness of the cruciform area.  A foam approach might well introduce too much compliance, offering minimal protection to the sump leading edge whilst trying to protect a structural area that is likely to be strong enough in any case. 

My own assessment is that the stiffer the wedge or block the better, but this ideal has to be tempered by weight, cost and 'shapeability' considerations.  Access to a machine shop to generate a solid, formed aluminium wedge or block might be the perfect solution.  Steel is obviously too heavy, as is rubber.  Several other alternatives were considered and rejected on cost and/or formability grounds. 

In this context, plain old hardwood serves remarkably well, but each to their own!

James

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