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620R cooling


CtrMint

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Martyn,

Great photos *thumbs_up_thumb*

any idea on the clearance dimension between the flange on the alloy housing the the Rotrex pipework ie directly between your big yellow text box - thinking is there room ro add a hose fitting there or down thro the upper portion to run parallel to the exisitng bypass.

May be 50/50 milling a semi groove in the flange and welding a half pipe with a 90 degree turn, after reworking current water return / checking stat compatibility though !

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I'm not sufficiently experienced to understand the true long term implications of the statements here.  Plus I'm trying to avoid becoming all doom and gloom.  I love my Sevens even after such a torrid time with the build.  But I'm starting to feel I'm driving a time bomb wrt the 620, I should have stuck with my Exige on track, it never left me down. 

Surely there are plenty of 620R/S owners out there that would have experienced major problems from the outset causing CC to do something, or it's not actually an issue, which I doubt at present.

Is there an L7C member that's been running a 620 beyond 2 years?  I'm curious what their experience has been like.

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Just a few on Doctors warm up points 

My Duratec (correctly plumb) running Raceline DS, 7Ltr capacity, no oil cooler on 10W/60 oil,

From start up on  level and decending roads I see 82 degrees in the coolant withing 3 miles of normal warm up driving, once I see 70 degree in the oil I slacken the reins slighlty on the ponies which naturally increases the oil warm up and I usually have 92degrees in the oil witihin 5 miles,  (I don't fully open the stable door untill I see 92 degrees in the oil )

There's no reason the 620 should be any different after the plumbing is sorted. *thumbs_up_thumb*

Mine will maintain 82-84 degrees coolant all day no problem, rising in traffic to the predetermined valves at which point the Emerald intervenes and takes control of the cooling fan.

 

 

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Can i ask a stupid question, if there is a thermostat in the housing why doesn't that regulate the temp, I'm confused as to why the circuit doesn't work.  Sorry I know this is a noob question, but I'm trying to understand the issue.

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"Is there an L7C member that's been running a 620 beyond 2 years?  I'm curious what their experience has been like."

 

My cars 6 years old now , it was one of the first half dozen 620R customer cars built .it had the thermostat  conversion added when ithat was introduced .

Ive done 10-15000 miles now including 6 years of track days and the engines given no issues .

As I've said above it does run a bit cool on cold days but nothing that a blank of the radiator doesn't sort . 

 

Sure  it could be better in that respect but it's not really that big an issue .

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Guys, 

Is there any chance someone could PM me, and explain why the thermostat doesn't actually keep the car at the correct temp.  Apologies, but you are all way beyond me with knowledge and the thread has moved on. As per this months L7C, my skills usual reside behind a keyboard, but I do want to better understand the problem here.  If someone could PM me instead I'd really appreciate it.

One of the things I'm confused over, can't we just put a hotter thermostat in? 

Thanks

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Well I have my temporary Summer solution to the overcooling. With a bit of experimentation I have arrived at a cut shaped sheet of 3mm Plastazote (Foamboard) tie wrapped to the back of the grill that now holds the temperature of the coolant between 75C and 90C (displayed on the standard CC fitted gauge) at where the Fan kicks in (90C).

Not sure what the oil temperature is doing as the number plate mostly covers the cooler. Something to investigate.

F89C9477-4E53-4B03-AAF6-230B39EC2B76.thumb.jpeg.8a2f47573d511465113562e84d07d5d8.jpeg

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