356DNA Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Mine pictured above - sorry about the orientation. As per Steves, it appears as the brake pedal is too far right.David. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 356DNA, Hope you didn't think I was hijacking the thread but it seems we have the same problem. Your clutch and brake pedals are the same way around as mine. What year is you car (mine is a 2012 metric?). I think swapping them might solve the problem but I'd just like to know what a 'correct' car looks like before diving in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
356DNA Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Steve. No problem at all. Glad to hear it’s not just me! I haven’t had time to get inside the pedal box today but from memory the clutch and brake pedals are not interchangeable as the former has a bracket on it. Happy to be corrected if this isn’t the case! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Pedals are not interchangeable - if you look at the top end, the clutch has an extra bit to support the clevis pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 356DNA first observation is no pedal rubber on the brake pedal, failed an MOT years ago on that, assume is still checked. Bet it was present at the IVA. Spacing looks ok, but its a top down shoot that will give the true picture. Have you taken the pedal box cover off yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
356DNA Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Chris - I took the rubber off to see if it helped with clearance. Sitting in the car today I think its a depth issue - the solution seems to be adjusting the throttle so it sits farther away (forward) from the brake towards the bulkhead, that would allow the brake to be pressed fully without the shoe (that will almost certainly overlap the throttle) from pressing it...Can others comment on how much further forward their throttle is?THanksDavid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 I have removed the brake pedal and bent it slightly in a vice. I say slightly because a small change in angle over the length of the pedal makes a big difference. I've moved mine over about 1cm which has brought the brake pedal where I want it. I could now drive with normal shoes or trainers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 28, 2019 Member Share Posted November 28, 2019 Steve: well done.Please could you add an "After" photo with the same shoes as "Before"?ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Before and after :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 28, 2019 Member Share Posted November 28, 2019 A thousand words... :-)ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
356DNA Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Thanks all. I’ll try this over the weekend also. David. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Evil Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Metric S3. I had to go the other way; the brake pedal was in the middle, and my left foot got trapped under the brake pedal declutching in a stop which is scary. I bent the brake pedal closer to the accelerator which at worst i hit the brake and gas at the same time which is far safer. + with the AP master cylinder set up for ‘heel&toe’. I also shaved off the right hand side of the brake rubber for a few mm of clearance.btw someone should make ali caterham pedals -those things are heavy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 you could take the rubbers off and apply skateboard tape to the brake and clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylvaman Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 I have this pedal box article with interest as i have a clutch pedal query. Hope i am not high jacking this post. I feel my clutch pedal is too high , what do you guys think in my pics ? If so is pedal height adjustable ? It certainly clears ok without pushing all way down to bottom of travel . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 1, 2019 Member Share Posted December 1, 2019 If so is pedal height adjustable ? You can adjust each pedal fore-and-aft between set positions. Have you already got the relevant section of the Assembly Guide?Then you can bend the pedals.With a cable-operated clutch you can also adjust the height as part of the cable adjustment, but there are other constraints.And on my Seven the throttle pedal was still too low and I had to bolt a block on top of it.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 you can alter the relative height of the pedals in the pedal box, pop the cover off and there is a threaded rod form the pedal clevis to the master cylinder - couple of turns should do it, remember to tighten the lock nut afterwards and check the clutch clears and adjust the clutch stop.If your running a Sigma or Duratec set the stop short and check to see if the clutch clears and adjust form there little by little as the concentric slave cylinders (CSC) used in these applications object to being over extended in the form of peeing fluid out and requiring replacement - engine out ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylvaman Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 Yes it is a late model Sigma engined car. I had noticed the clutch hydraulic hose going in through a hole in the bell housing.Certainly not a design for ease of maintenace on the slave cylinder. I will take the cover off and adjust carefully , as you have suggested . Thank you J and 7 wonders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylvaman Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 To get the Clutch pedal in a position i am happy with , required the courser adjustment, of moving the clevis pin to the inner hole position. (towards the driver) This has worked a treat , then checked and re-set the pedal stop as suggested.Went for a little test drive around the block , today . What a difference ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 23, 2019 Member Share Posted December 23, 2019 Well done. Brake and throttle OK?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylvaman Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 Funny you should ask J Whilst working in the pedal box , thought i would check full throttle opening , which it was getting , but the pedal stop adjustment was nowhere near , it was using the throttle body, butterfly stop instead . So re-set that also. Plus lubricated all the pivots and linkages in the pedal box (with my trusty oil can) whilst top was off. Naturally the drive is greatly improved. So thank you all , again and wishing you a Greaaaaaaat Christmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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