7_Malc Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Brake lights not working this morning. Rear lights are fine, indicators fine. Both rear light bulbs appear to have unbroken filaments (x2) but there is not even a flicker of light when the pedal is pushed. Brakes themselves work fine. It might be a fuse? Looking the 7s fuse box / array. None say brakes? This is the end of my electrical knowledge, so advice needed please. Car is a 1999 K-series Roadsport 140. Many thanks, Malc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Sudden failure of both brake lights with no other lights affected? How about the reversing light?If the fuse isn't blown I'd start with checking the switch: is it being pushed when the pedal is pressed, and is it making the electrical circuit?...Do you have a multimeter and would you like the wiring diagram and fuse layout for your Seven? For a 1999 K the layout is probably:1998 Fusebox layout.pdfJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 Thanks - shorting the leads inside the pedal box (bypassing the switch) now lights both brake lights, so it looks like a failed switch. Are these a common part or a Caterham speciality? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Is the switch getting a good push? And do the lights work when you push the switch closed by hand?Failure inside the switch is a common problem. And the switch isn't specific to Caterham. You might find a replacement locally. If not I recommend Redline or any of the online specialists.But there's also a common internal failure that is DIY fixable. It involves taking the switch apart when the spring notoriously makes a bid for freedom... instructions.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Easy fix ... either blob of gunk on ends of contacts inside switch or they have spread apart a mm or so. 5 minute fix including taking pedal box cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 All sorted - thank you. The internal contacts needed a clean and adjustment. Brake lights back in action! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Well done.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 Cheers Jonathan, at first the idea of removing the pedal box cover seems rather daunting, but once underway it wasn't so bad. The switch disassembly was fiddly - and I nearly lost the spring despite the warning - but it all works again now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 You will find that this keeps happening and eventually get fed up enough to search the archives for an alternative part from another supplier Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I bought a sealed switch from Car Builder Solutions. Found an identical one on line from I think Facet. Edit .. found the box .. Intermotor 51690 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manstein Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I'm told the Kit Car Solutions version is a Mazda part but seems better quality than the black CC offering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Comparison, with photos and part number.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 Just to add to my comment back then:"The problem used to be, and was with mine, the switch was trying to act as a pedal stop when the pedal came back up, bashing the plunger further through the contacts.Mine failed within months of ownership, so dismantled, cleaned, reassembled and re-attached it to the car, paying attention to the operating bar and the switch, adjusting it so the switch wasn't being forced beyond it's movement.That was 2001 - still working fine in 2017"Now 2019 . . . still working . . . like the original clutch cable and the original accelerator cable . . . Careful set up pays dividends - once you know there's a problem to be avoided anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted August 4, 2019 Author Share Posted August 4, 2019 The helpfulness and knowledge base here on BC is superb. Thanks again guys. I'm going to order a spare switch (Mazda style) and swap it out in 12 years / months / weeks / miles time when my cleaned-up one fails… maybe get clutch and throttle cable to add to the bundle in the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 :-)You can tie the spare cables to a chassis member eg under the bonnet. And fit the jack in front of the heater. And (eventually) add a couple of tool tubes...Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 I carry a bicycle inner cable (cheese type) and cable clamp to effect roadside repair. Also carry a clutch cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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