Scotland North AR Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Hi, can anyone point me in the right direction for standard wheel alignment figures for a 2009 150 Sigma SV please. Castor, camber and toe.Just replaced my steering rack gaiters and found that before I took the relevant parts to bits, there was 3mm difference between the end of the locknut and the end of the thread on the inside of the track rod at each side.I'm getting the alignment properly checked in the morning before I drive too far on brand new tyres.Ta very glad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Next time you do it ...this is what I have done on a couple of cars lately.Lift front of car.Remove any cover over track rod end and lock nut. Draw a line of tippex on flat of nut and onto TRE.Spanner on flats of TRE and on lock nut. Crack lock nut and turn it back against the TRE.Blob of Tippex on thread of track rod and onto face of nut. Using flats on the track rod, unscrew the rod from the TRE. Should be loose enough to turn by hand once it starts turning.When it falls out of TRE, remove lock nut and snip cable ties on rack gaiter.When refitting, don't fit small outer cable tie on new boot until all finished, or you can't turn the rod.Refit as reverse of above.Only turn lock nut up to the blob of Tippex. Screw rod home until it touches nut. Then align both marks as you nip up lock nut.On the driver side ... apply some grease to the teeth under the rack before fitting new gaiter and wind it from lock to lock to distribute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Good procedure.Thanks for that, do you have the actual standard settings though?I used a vernier to check the length of exposed thread at each side before taking apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 It depends on how you want the car to drive. I think comon practice it to set it at zero toe and for road 1.5deg negative camber. Then, if you feel it won't turn in adjust to toe out (equally on both sides to keep steering wheel centered) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 I was looking for the “manual” standard road settings as a starting point. I’d read different views on the toe in and out and understood the difference between track and road ok. I was struggling to find a definitive Caterham “as delivered” spec before the owner tuned it to their liking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 If you have a copy of the Build Manual for your car the numbers you need are towards the back of the manual. It's probably page 184 from looking at my copy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 22, 2019 Member Share Posted May 22, 2019 The figures from the 1998 Assembly Guide... and the observation that other figures are available. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Adjust Caster Camber and Toe in that order - all with ballastAs a starting placeCaster 2-2 2-2Camber 1.5 - 1.75 NEGToe 10mins toe outHave you had the bumpsteer checked too..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Thanks for all that, have now found the table in the various manuals. It varies from toe out in the early manual to toe in in the later one. The relevant terms don’t come up using a search of the PDF documents annoyingly.Funnily enough, the posting from 2014 which Jonathan refers to is from my mate Tony on Mull!What I’ll do is get it all measured up in the morning at Kwikfat and revert back with a more comprehensive post summarising it all in one place.To answer 7W, I’ve never had the suspension properly checked out flat foot wise before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 22, 2019 Member Share Posted May 22, 2019 The relevant terms don’t come up using a search of the PDF documents annoyingly.Some Assembly Guide pdfs are text-searchable and some aren't. I've never worked out why.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Just a cautionary mention, if you are going to adjust the camber, this should be done before setting the tracking. If the camber needs setting you might want to do this yourself or get some advice on here rather than entrust the job to ThikFit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Unless you ballast the car with the normal weights your figures will be worthless though - worth checking if they can do with with well weights etc.....and ask when there equipment was last calibrated before you start !.... if the look puzzled by that question walk away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 23, 2019 Leadership Team Share Posted May 23, 2019 The camber setting can also depend upon the tyres you have fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 Well, there's a thing.... Front of carCamberFront -1 degree 15 minutes -1 degree 20 minutesRear -1 degree 49 minutes - 1 degree 43 minutesCaster3 degrees 47 min 4 degrees 46 minutesToe in0 degrees 19 minutes 1 degree 13 minutesNothing changed but toe in:- 10 degrees 10 degreesJust gone for the standard setting as I don't track the car. Steering much lighter (as stated in above posts). Going around a few roundabouts on the way home it seems to be a vastly better drive.The technician at Stonehaven Kwikfit had been a technician for Bosch installing these system before a cycling injury stopped him traveling about. Good to have the machine display in the customer area so you can see what is being adjusted.£55 well spent.Will do a longer post to summarize everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADMALC Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 I think you mean 1 degree toe in not 10 degrees !!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 Thanks, I did notice that earlier after re-reading it. Should have tried 10 degrees to see what it drove like! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 I'm hoping he means 10 mins each side as a combined 2 degrees of toe in would not make for a happy bunny....Did you ballast the car prior to checking and adjusting...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotland North AR Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 10 minutes toe in each side was used.I didn't ballast the car as 99 percent of the time there are two of us in the car so I assumed that the ballast would not be needed.I did 100 or so miles on my own today along some twisty roads and it seems to handle and steer far, far better. That is with brand new tyres (500 miles), new passenger side wheel bearing and toe in corrected.......oh and some nice sunshine and little traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 The ballast is to take into account the weight of the driver and or passenger in order the geometry is measured and set with this load in place ....You have in effect adjusted the geometry and then loaded the car which take the geometry to a new datum point - ie different.It should be rechecked with the appropriate ballast in place to represent you and the passenger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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