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R500 K Emissions. HC 1,000ppm Solved again - several years later.


anthonym

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Note that only saves the current load/speed site to the ECU when in live adjustments, if you are making changes to the ret of the map (adjacent sites), then you need to program the ECU with the current map.

I would get the fuelling somewhere near correct and let it run fr 20 minutes or so, then have a look at the plugs gain.

Oily

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I would get the fuelling somewhere near correct 

is this the process with the number 2 key?

How do I fix the 44/54 adjacent sites matter?

@andrew if it's oil is there anything I can do about it? Aside from the engine refresh due Jan 20

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While there is a thread open on the topic of TPS & Emerald, I hopw you dont mind me asking a realted question. 

To give a better cable routing, Im wondering whether the TPS on my SLR/KV6 throttle bodies can be rotated 180 degree without upsetting the Emerald?  Currently the TPS socket faces upwards, and the plug come up from below and has be bend round to plug in to the TPS.  If I can turn the TPS around it will plug straight in without the bend in the wiring.  

Will I have to re-programme the software to learn where the TPS open and close points are? 

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I *think* that the TPS has a D-shaped hole for the spindle, meaning you couldn't rotate the sensor by 180 degrees and fit it back on the spindle, and there isn't enough movement range to allow the actual sensor to operate 180 degrees offset.

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Hi, that definitely rings a bell.  I've seen photo of a friends 7 engine with Jenveys (I think) and the TPS faces down.  I guess I cant easily move it then without stripping and rebuilding the TPS with the spindle the other way around - even if this is possible.  I'll leave it be then! 

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Things that have changed each one of which has affected my maps:

TPS (returned to original now)

Idle screw (mostly returned to original now)

Airflow ... can’t undo this 

Voltage (new alternator with much larger pulley), have new one to fit.

New injectors MIGHT be ok ( I guess that depends on the state of the originals when mapped)

New engine loom : s/be ok if resistances not much different.

Fuel pressure untouched , not checked.

To do: fit alternator pulley of original size. 

So the problem? User error. No surprise there.

Note to self: make it all new before mapping, so that in the future the fitment of new parts does not introduce changes fundamental to the maps.

Anthony

I must not meddle.....

 

 

 

 

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Output voltage of alternator should not be affected by the pulley size and injected fuel amound is hopefully corrected for in a way that the lathency in the injectors is corrected for vs supply voltage meaning that swapping the alternator should not affect anything.
 

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The pulley size has changed when the alternator starts charging to above tickover so at idle we are running on 11.5 volts (on a good day) and it varies with whatever the battery has instead of the alternator’s profile.

p.s. I’ve corrected my wording about the pullley above.

 

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B92E2A1B-56E1-4569-926D-A0E141DC6B5D.thumb.jpeg.981340e624124a7092e729e87f087d4f.jpeg

Tools used to remove the Brise alternator pulley. 22mm socket. I cut off the old belt. 

the impact wrench worked very easily, but only after holding the pulley with my hand, using a cloth. Finding the route under the radiator, beside the apollo, using a wobble extension, was the recipe.

Now fitted but not yet tightened the small pulley. Tight belt length 687mm, so something a bit longer to go over the lip. Suggestions welcome.

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Now fitted but not yet tightened the small alternator pulley. Hand tight belt length 687mm, so something a bit longer to go over the lip. Suggestions welcome. Too long and the alternator hits the chassis, too short and I can't get it on over the lip.

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If my memory serves me right that's what I'm using too but they are available as 4PK690 and 4PK698 being 690 and 698mm long.

I have reduced to a 3 rib (3PK, but that's to save weight and reduce mechanical loss - yes, a bit extreme, I know)

 

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indeed it is :-)

5PK705  seems to fit and only my hands required to mount it. 

It is not possible to avoid disconnecting the oil hoses from the apollo because there is a chassis member that runs between the two, see pic. So the « over the apollo » technique cannot be used.

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I am still surprised that changing the alternator (and therefore the alternator pulley size in the process) has affected the ECU maps leading to the engine running too rich to pass the emissions test. But there we are. 

The much larger pulley meant the voltage at tickover varies according to the battery state of charge not the alternator charging voltage.

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No Steve said this, also the TPS and airflow changes. We will see, as the process is incomplete. 

You sound sceptical, apparently it is because the pulley size has stopped the voltage being "alternator voltage" at tickover, because it doesn't kick in until higher revs so at tickover the voltage varies according to whatever charge remains in the battery, often 11.5 volts.

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Emeralds have built in voltage compensation that adjusts for slower injector opening times with lower voltage so I’d be surprised if that were adversely affecting running. You would expect some leaning off if that were not the case.

Oily

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