andyl Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Just took my recently purchased SV out and noticed that it was not rolling freely when coating to a halt. So when I got home I jacked up one side and sure enough the nearside rear is not spinning freely.I think they are Sierra calipers, can someone confirm? Is this a typical Caterham problem (it is on my 71 elan).Is there anything wrong using rebuilt calipers from Burton? http://www.burtonpower.com/caliper-rear-cosworth-2wd-ford-sierra-rh-xc71347.htmlIf it's the same problem as the elan it would be the handbrake mechanism is this so with a Caterham? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Got a left side calliper if you want, its was removed after 1 year because the other side was replaced under warranty by Caterham, it’s like new. PM if it’s something you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 How old is the car .... remove the sliding bit and clean/lubricate the slide pins. See if the piston moves freely. How old is the brake fluid ... Any moisture in the fluid falls to the calipers where it can cause corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Arundel Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Yes, typical failure(just fixed mine) and not a five minute job to change due to the handbrake. There is a high probability that the seals will fail shortly so it isn`t worth trying to fix it unless you have to. I have a mod that gets around the handbrake problem. Who did you buy it from and how many miles has it done? Take care with the brake pipes they are fragile, there are workshop mods active for these. Make sure pads are ok and if new that they are matched side to side and front to rear. Where are you?Yes Ford Sierra ......I can get Pt. no. if you need it. Caterham do stock them.... at a price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Thanks Guys, I am new back to Caterhams (I had I think No 12 with a Twin Cam originally which is now residing in Japan) and I had forgotten the enduring way they love you, being of advanced age I wanted to draw on your experience before I spent money and made mistakes. I do appreciate all your help and advice, I fell in love with them again this morning watching the front mudguards dancing and hearing the exhaust pop as I drove through my part of the New Forrest:-2010 Sima SV18,500 milesI bought it from a Caterham dealer but "sold as seen" so I'm not at all worried about doing some minor bits of work. After making sure it's reliable (brake fluid etc as Tom advises) I plan to put a TTV lightened flywheel in, a heat exchanger (oil/water) run it for the summer then look at upgrading it to 140/150bhp and nickle plate the front suspension.Oh I should also add that the brake warning light(s) are flashing whatever that means so I will have to RTFM?Tom, I am in East Dorset bordering on Hampshire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Arundel Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Brake warning light means you are leaking fluid, probably out of the stuck caliper. Top it up asap. and get it fixed... if you have to brake hard you may end up sideways! For road use the 140 is much better than the 150....unless you like the noise and revs of the 150. 140 has a lot more low to mid range torque and goes about the same up to 6000 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 OK extended Caterham dinner break, piston is seized but not leaking so I think that the brake fluid level just got lower due to wear in the pads, now we can't get that dam handbrake cable off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 OK new calipers from Biggred coming tomorrow, apparently I have to adjust the handbrake cable near the diff nose :0) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Arundel Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Yes and its a bit of a bug--r to get at. It`s 2 part nylon - front locates cable and rear locks front. both screw along the outer cable I used a flat screwdriver to push it around...still not easy. Hooking the cable end off the caliper lever is also not easy... big pliers/ mole gripsI cheated and put a 4mm cable slot in the middle of the caliper cable socket----does away with all the hassleThere is a tendancy on track days for drivers to come straight in after a final `hot lap` and put the handbrake on which can cause some caliper problems but mostly it`s rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Tom, I owe you a beer, a slot seems to be the way forward, I would never have got there by myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 I use a big flat screwdriver to twist between the two white nylon adjusters to screw them apart .. with the handbrake lever released (down). Once separated .... just spin the rearmost one down the cable towards the calipers. Then pull on the outer cable to release the tension on the other adjuser until you can spin that freely too. When you reassemble it ... don't adjust the handbrake cable until you fit the pads and connect up and bleed the hydraulics. Then press hard on the brake pedal a few times to operate the self-adjuster inside the piston. Only then adjust the handbrake cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhauri Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Hi Andy,Any reason why you went with Biggred and not Burton?The below looks like great value?http://www.burtonpower.com/caliper-rear-cosworth-2wd-ford-sierra-rh-xc71347.htmlI'm suspicious of my rear near side caliper being on the way out. Over the bank holiday on the way back from Gawsworth I noticed a new grinding type noise coming from that area of the car (as if the caliper was putting more pressure on the disc).When I got home the N/S wheel was hotter to the touch than the O/S. The car drove and braked (broke?) fine, and rolled okay too so it may just be sticking a bit. Annoying really as I've only just changed the rear discs and pads. The N/S rear was a tad more difficult to wind in, but I managed it so figured all serviceable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 rhauri, yes if you look at my 1st post they were the ones I asked about, however if you look at the Burton ones they are rebuilt and not new, they also want £30 deposit so if the bores were rusted you could end up paying £56.06 + £56.06 + £36 + £36 = £184.00 BiggRed sold me a new pair including tax and shipping for £170. I don't skimp or try to save money on brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhauri Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Ah okay, I'm with you. Financially, I can see the benefit from going with Biggred; do you have a web link for their calipers by any chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 No I'm afraid not, I did the old fashioned way and called up on the phone :0)Asked for Caterham rears which are also Sierra rears, the box says Part No 5023226Here is the bill with part numbers I could not find them on the website.Ordered a kit of parts from Dave Kimberley to use flexible hose on the rear calipers I don't like the way that the copper tubes are flexed when the caliper moves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 SM25T I have just crawled under the car and I can see exactly what you mean, I fear however I will have to tell my wife that I need a small handed Japanese girlfriend to get her fingers up to the adjusters.Caterham must have some sadistic designers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhauri Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Thanks for this Andy - a great help.And yes, I need to do the braided hose setup on mine too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Well if I can do it .... but do make sure the car is secure on axle stands of course before laying under and pulling it about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 SM25T, yes axle stands and an engine hoist to the roll over bar, I love life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 rhauri, here's the items I bought from Dave Kimberley at DT for your ref:- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhauri Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Perfect, thank you Andy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 New? I thought Biggred were a remanufacturing Company. Now that I think back I recall the ‘new’ calipers sold with Caterham kits are remanufactured. Anyone confirm that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 These are new calipers but OEM not Ford, Biggred also refurbish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyl Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share Posted May 21, 2018 Now this is the help I needed to adjust the handbrake? https://www.facebook.com/ISRmechanic/videos/1891747387742864/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 You could try that method but you may have trouble finding a fully trained monkey these days. Something to do with minimum wage and modern day slavery has hit the jobs market for them. If you fancy having a go yourself - loosen the cable by turning the nut on the threaded cable underneath the car, with the handbrake off pump the brakes a few times then with the handbrake still off turn the nut on the threaded cable underneath the car until one of the arms on the calipers just starts to move and then check for handbrake operation. If you cock it up like I did get a wind back tool or long nose pliers to wind the piston back in and try again.This is the RTFM version:http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/brake/RCaliper.pdfhttp://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/brake/HandbrakeCableAdj.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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