rhauri

Hey folks, Does anyone have the Parts List or Assembly Guide (ie. A guide that shows how to fit a the dry sump system to an already-wet sumped car) for the Caterham / Titan Gold Pump with Bellhousing Oil Tank (with swirl pot)? Thanks! Rhuari

I use a PC625 which I replaced last year, slightly different specs but do the same job I'm sure. I've found the PC680 on Demon Tweeks for £102 (not sure if delivery is free, didn't check). If you scroll down though, there are all the specs of all the versions. Compare the Extreme 25 (PC680) to your one you have in your car now (dimensions and other noted specs on the battery). If they're the same or similar, I'd suggest you'd be good to go. I wouldn't worry about packaging too much, as these can change over time and some vendors my use an old image of the old packaging but what turns up may be of the latest design. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/odyssey-extreme-racing-25-battery-pc680-odypc680/ Hope that helps.

Mine would go milky instantly after washing / spot of rain, so used compound to buff them back up. Since lacquering they've been nice and glossy and hold up against rain / washing.

Yes I did. The lacquer has basically given up the ghost. A proper key with various grades of wet n dry paper and a re-laquer should do the trick. I got a local paint shop to do mine for me though, £30 for the pair, and I was very happy indeed with the result. You may also find you can use a cutting compound with a DA polisher to bring back the gloss, but it won't last (even if you apply many layers of wax!)

I can confirm the correct bolt is '79085' and changed them earlier this year when changing rear discs. A few LADS top tips helped me out: Lay your wheel on the floor (face down, maybe on top of cardboard to protect the finish) and put the hub/brake disc into it. I put a couple of the lug nuts on too, finger tight Buy a spare socket (can't remember the size off the top of my head, will check when I get home if no one else comments) and grind/flatten it down so the tapered end is gone - should give more purchase on the shallow bolt head Kneel on the tyre to keep everything steady To undo the bolts, use a breaker bar, go slow, and ensure you put downward pressure on the socket end (last thing you want is for the socket to slip and round off the bolt head)That should be enough to overcome the thread-lock (it was for me, I didn't use any form of heat. That said, heat should weaken the thread-lock so not a bad idea at all). I'm sure you've probably already read this on other threads and I may have even repeated what others have already said! Hope it helps anyway.

Unfortunately not Pete, Loctite 243 is less than 50% as below: Unless they've changed the recipe??

I've always used Loctite 243 for general stuff @ ambient temperatures, particularly in my karting days. For the (exhaust?) manifold stud, you'll probably want one that can withstand high temps though? Loctite 243 has less than 50% strength at 150°C, for instance. The two below options may be better for your manifold: Loctite 272 - 75% strength @ 150°C // Breakaway torque on M10 bolts of 23 Nm Loctite 278 - 90% Strength @ 150°C // Breakaway torque on M10 bolts of 42 Nm Plenty of thread-locker options and details here though: http://www.loctite.co.uk/threadlocking-9150.htm

I use the PC625, a tad more expensive than the PC680 but is 1kg lighter and is a little bit more powerful. You will need a new cradle for it though. Do Powervamp actually make them or are they just a retailer? I thought these batteries were made by EnerSys; never-the-less they are readily available from DemonTweeks or JJC Race & Rally (either direct or via eBay). eBay listing I bought my PC625 through recently: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Odyssey-Extreme-Battery-Race-Racing-Oval-Rally-Motorsport-Dry-Cell Just select the model needed from the drop-down.

My Aces lights are setup so they're basically off during normal to normal-ish driving. Idle light <1750 rpm First amber rev light >5000 rpm (my redline is 8100 rpm)So, when driving home from the pub meet circa 23:00 hours, I don't have any distracting lights in my face (provided I'm above 1750 rpm and under 5000 rpm - which I am, excluding being sat at traffic lights!). Unless I'm driving in such a style that will be taking me near the redline, I find I don't need the shift lights, so as long as you don't do that at night, you could consider my setup instead of changing brightness continually.

Perfect, thank you Andy!

I've used both with positive results: Tyreleader: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres-205-60-13/?m%5B7%5D=on Oponeo: https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-finder/s=1/summer/t=1/car/p=1/toyo/r=1/205-60-r13

Thanks for this Andy - a great help. And yes, I need to do the braided hose setup on mine too!

Ah okay, I'm with you. Financially, I can see the benefit from going with Biggred; do you have a web link for their calipers by any chance?

Hi Andy, Any reason why you went with Biggred and not Burton? The below looks like great value? http://www.burtonpower.com/caliper-rear-cosworth-2wd-ford-sierra-rh-xc71347.html I'm suspicious of my rear near side caliper being on the way out. Over the bank holiday on the way back from Gawsworth I noticed a new grinding type noise coming from that area of the car (as if the caliper was putting more pressure on the disc). When I got home the N/S wheel was hotter to the touch than the O/S. The car drove and braked (broke?) fine, and rolled okay too so it may just be sticking a bit. Annoying really as I've only just changed the rear discs and pads. The N/S rear was a tad more difficult to wind in, but I managed it so figured all serviceable...

Would a tent peg extractor do the trick? Suppose it depends whether the hoops are big enough to fit the hook in?

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing Moz. Think I'll give that a go and see how I get on.

Agreed elie, not sure I'm happy with it's current location. The QED installation instructions say the bypass from the QED thermostat ultimately needs to feed to the back of the water pump, so I'm wondering whether feeding to the bottom hose is also a good option? Thoughts on any draw back? I'm sure I've seen some PRRT setups that by-pass the rad in this way.

Oh okay - apologies! Yes, I have this in place and yes it runs through the heater.

Sorry Stu, I'm not sure what you think I'm missing. I have a by-pass it's just feeding to a different location as to QED's advised location. They do caveat that their layout is for guidance only and that other configurations may be more appropriate for different applications. I've had a play with their diagram and made two more which may be clearer still. Below are three diagrams: The original QED layout for reference I converted the original QED layout into a QED Caterham layout, but with all pipes leading from and to the same places. I have amended the QED Caterham layout to show the QED setup in my car.Hopefully from the below you will see that my by-pass hose feeds in after the header tank as opposed to before the header tank. My understanding of the by-pass is to circumvent the stat while it's closed and get warm water back into the engine. In theory, my setup should (and I believe does) do this; just with a negative side affect of the header tank filling up a bit (not to the brim) and blowing pressure out of the header tank cap. My thoughts are, if I feed the by-pass hose directly into the bottom/return hose (and therefore into the block), it will allow for better flow and circulation and therefore alleviate the side effect my car is experiencing. Have a look at the below three diagrams anyway and let me know your thoughts

Hi Stu, It isn't fed into the header tank, it's fed into the outlet pipe from the header tank which then feeds into the bottom/return hose. As the original thermostat housing would have been on the bottom/return hose, in theory this should be equivalent; but I'm not convinced the flow efficiency is there in practice. I didn't install the QED top hose stat in my car, but according to QED's fitting instructions the bypass should feed the header tank, which then feeds the bottom hose. My setup bypasses the header tank and feeds the hose going to the bottom hose. Not sure if that is better, worse or negligible; but ultimately, it is the same end game. I'll have to have another look to see if the original stat housing is there for whether a complete new bottom hose has been installed as I just can't remember/picture it at the moment. If the original housing is there, with the 16mm blanked off; I could consider using that for the bypass hose rather than where it currently attaches. QED fitting instructions if they're of any use: https://qedmotorsport.co.uk/files/k-series_qed_remote_thermostat_fitting.pdf Rhauri

From what I understand, my header tank does feed the coolant bypass feed (and ultimately the bottom/return hose)? Sorry if I've misunderstood something; still quite a novice in the field of coolant plumbing! I'm wondering whether putting the bypass feed from the stat straight into the bottom hose would be better and help attain the correct / most efficient flow.

p.mole1, it sounds like we have the same setup and the same issue (except for running too hot, my temps are steady). On reflection I can see why the expansion tank fills up so dramatically; the bypass hose feeds into the hose between the expansion tank and bottom hose. The flow should in theory go with the existing current from the expansion tank into the bottom hose; but if pressure builds it could just force fluid in both directions and force the air that was in the expansion tank somewhere else (such as the radiator)? What I'm not sure on is how fluid could be forced back through the overflow hose (and in the wrong direction); or am I misunderstanding? Unless your tank fills to the brim (which mine doesn't, quite!) then I can't see this happening. elie boone, within my diagram I've put together, from where to the top radiator bleed screw would you add another hose? I like the sound of it. Would it also help get some warm water into the radiator before the thermostat opens therefore reducing the chances of thermal shock to the block?

Thanks for the offer Peter, very kind. I'll try the wheel & breaker bar method first and if struggling I'll let you know. I've got a can of PlusGas in stock so I'll let them soak overnight too.

Good to know Toby; £10 per pair is very reasonable! Unfortunately I don't have an impact wrench but I have a trusty breaker bar. Thanks for the torque figure too; saves me looking it up.

Thanks so much all, a wealth of great information. And thanks for pointing me in the right direction for the discs and bolts!