p.mole1 Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 I am about to rebuild a 1.8 k series and it's not going well. One of the oil filter housing bolts has sheared off, F*** it's seized solid. It snapped leaving about 5mm proud of the block,so I welded a nut the remains and that sheared off ! How am I going to get the remaining stud out? Also any tips for removing the crank pulley bolt I am using a 1 meter bar bolted to the crank and an a 3/4 drive breaker bar on the bolt and I can't shift it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 I guess you'll have to carefully drill out the remaining stud out. Starting with a 2mm HSS or other similar bit to drill a pilot hole, then 4mm, maybe a 4.5mm. If the engine is out is ot on a stand allowing it to be rotated so you are drilling on a level surface. Ive had to drill out the bolts that hold brake discs on to a MINI hub and before I got anywhere near drilling the female thread out, it ws sufficiently weakened I could remove the remains by lightly tapping a screwdriver in and turning it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 What is the one metre bar attached to ? The radius of the flywheel teeth is normally sufficient to stop the crank turning. Maybe if you have bolted at a small radius it doesn't work ? You may have to drill out the bolt shank. Start small and work up. Maybe screw a left hand stud extractor in .... after soaking the bolt in PlusGas for a day or two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 Thanks, I don't fancy my chances of drilling out a steel bolt from aluminium and I've had the studding red hot when I welded a nut to the remaining stud, I think it must stuck fast with corrosion.I will try some penetrating fluid but it seems locked solidLooks like I may need to get hold of a flywheel as I think there is to much flex in the bar not allowing me to shock the bolt loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 Re the oil filter sheared bolt, there was a post in late November mentioning Irwin Bolt Removal tools. Never used one myself, and you may not have enough of the bolt sitting proud of the block for these to work. Lots of soaking with plus gas as you no doubt have tried. If you do have to resort to drilling it may be safer to see if you can make up a jig using an old oil filter base housing with some mods to guide your drill bit when making the pilot hole. With the crank bolt is it worth trying an electric impact gun from your local tool hire shop? Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 What about a stud extractor tool after heat and a whack with the hammer followed up with a dose of penetrating fluid?https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/sealey-stud-remover-installer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8KmUltyK2AIVlArTCh2AVQJFEAQYCyABEgJqZ_D_BwE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 15, 2017 Leadership Team Share Posted December 15, 2017 Front pulley bolt ...You mention needing a flywheel therefore it's assumed that the engine block is out and on an engine stand? If so you need a length of bar, I use a length of 2" angle iron but only because that's what I happened to have. From memory it needs to be around 20" long, with two holes drilled near the middle to enable it to be bolted to the crank in place of a flywheel. Unlike a flywheel, the bar will not allow the engine to turn over when it's on the stand because it'll jam against the mounting points and offer very good resistance to tighten or loosen the front pulley bolt. Avoids any damage to the flywheel teeth with a locking tool if your bolt is extremely tight.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 If you had the stud red hot and it wouldn't shift then I fear that the bolt was to long as corrosion would have given away. If this is the case then drilling is your only option. And for the crank pulley bolt, did you try an impact wrench ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q Catcher Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Assuming the oil filter housing is aluminium alloy, using a heat gun for a prolonged period of time (e.g. 15+ mins) on the alloy while repeatedly tapping on the end of the broken stud with a hammer (not hard enough to 'rivet' it), then suddenly spraying the stud with lots of Shock & Unlock whilst attempting to turn* it usually works after several attempts.*Brazing a nut to the stud might work, to get enough purchase on it. Or hacksaw a slot in the end of the stud and braze a piece of steel strip into the slot, protruding out to provide purchase for Mole Grips.You can prep the job by cutting away any corrosion product (and slivers of the alloy) around the base of the protruding bit of the stud with a Stanley knife and flooding with Plus Gas etc.Warning: this method requires a lot of patience. But cursing loud encouragement during the Shock & Unlock phase is permitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 Thanks everyone, the remains of the stud sheared off flush with the block ,I had the remaining stud and nut nearly white hot! it's stuck solid, however the bolts seem to be very soft steel.I think Jims idea of using the old oil filter housing as a drilling jig seems the best option. I tried my own impact gun but it hasn't got enough umph! I enlisted the help of a hefty mate and all we did was bend the angle iron like licquorice! I may be able to get some help from Fire Appliance workshops they must have some substantial impact guns. The difficulty is holding everything rigidly in place so you can get enough force to shock the bolt loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 I saw this on eBay; if it's steel (not sure) it might make a better drilling jig than an old filter housing? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322933137478 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Hi Revilla that could be just what I'm looking for although I can't seem to find it on Ebay.Tried a 800 nm impact gun but it didn't budge so I resorted to heat and brute force using a 1 Kg mallet and it eventually gave in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Hi Revilla, found it, operator error Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliwes Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Deffo Impact gun for the crank pulley :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I use an impact socket (slightly shortened for Elises) welded to a 3 ft piece of 35mm x 15mm bar and lock the flywheel with a piece of flat bar, 40mm x 8mm with holes drilled to take two flywheel bolts, it has never failed. The 3ft bar is colloquially known as the donkey walloper.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 Thanks Oily its off! engine is good condition, even the bearing shells. A couple of the main bearings are slightly worn, well polished. What type of main bearing shell do you recommend are VP2 bearings worth the expense? or should I just go for the Glyco cheap white metal ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 It’s the big ends that take the load, Glyco or factory bearings will be fine on the mains, but I would go with VP2 for the big ends.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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