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Dying battery?


twincamtim

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I think I already know the inevitable answer to this question so here goes nothing...

7 is garaged, without any auxiliary power, and driven every few weeks. Alarm fitted but no battery isolator. Over the winter the car has refused to start and all that happens on start-up is a fast clicking sound or nothing at all. Battery 'appeared' flat so purchased a small, lithium, portable, powerpack, which did the trick (it works every time).

Repeat all the above every few weeks. NB: The battery is topped up as per.

So, the clicking is the solenoid I presume, with insufficient juice to turn the engine etc? The battery is not even charging up on long runs - I have to carry the portable to re-start at refueling stops! 

I have now (for 3 days) had it connected up to the ex-Carcoon charger/conditioner but it is only showing about 11 volts max across the terminals at rest and about 13.5 when connected to the charger.

Is the Banner goosed??

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It's not looking good. I'd do a few more measurements before getting rid of it. What's the battery voltage:

  1. Minimum seen as you try to start it without the external power pack?
  2. Ditto with?
  3. At 3,000 rpm? This is a good first test of charging from the alternator and you need to know that's OK before installing the new battery.

Jonathan

PS: Do you want recommendations for the new one?

 

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I've just replaced the battery on my 1800 K. It lives in a garage on a conditioning charger. It came with a Banner and I'd previously changed that for a Powervamp PVR 25, with which I was very happy.

This time round the big decision was whether to switch to a lithium battery. Lots in the archives on this but I'm mean and risk averse. 

I bought a PVR Clubsport NP from their eBay store. NB:

  1. Terminals might be different from your current, but they sell adaptors.
  2. Case size might be different but you can fettle the straps or buy the appropriate case.
  3. I had to lengthen one fat red wire.

Jonathan

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A battery that's just been charged should be about 12.7V? 11V is way too low.

If you switch the headlights on (engine not running) and the voltage plummets than the battery is definitely dead.

An alarm will likely have a quiescent current drain sufficient to flatten a battery in a couple of weeks if not used and not charged. That won't do the battery any good either. Sounds like you need a trickle charger while the car is in storage.

 

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In my experience Banner batteries don't take kindly to going flat. Provided they are kept fully charged then they last quite a long time, but let them go flat and even if you charge them up subsequently, then they seem to deteriorate pretty rapidly. 

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A standard lead acid battery (like the Banner) doesn't like deep discharge cycles. Once you have really flattened it no amount of trick "conditioning" chargers will ever recover it fully.

The Absorbed Glass Mat type (Odyssey, Powervamp) do work well with a Battery Master Switch. If they are totally disconnected they hold their charge for ages (months!) But then of course your alarm is non functional.

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Sounds like you need a trickle charger while the car is in storage.

I wouldn't leave a typical 7 battery on a traditional trickle charger. But mine (and the Vespa) live happily on smart current-sensing conditioning chargers such as CTEK, OptiMate or AccuMate.

Jonathan

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