Clutch Release Bearing

[rhauri]

My CRB has packed in.

Is this the correct CRB for my 2003 Rover K 1800 & Caterham 6 Speed box?

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/89-clutch-release-bearing.html

Going to have a go at doing it without taking the engine out.

Thanks in advance!

[Sim]

yes- that looks the right part.

see here

You may want to search for info on pre-load as well.

 

Simon

[John Vine]

Yes, that CRB will work but IMHO you'd do better to use the original Ford/INA CRB (as fitted to the Sierra).  The one CC now supply is of SKF manufacture (nothing wrong with that) but it's not designed to fit the Ford clutch fork, whereas the Ford/INA one is.

The Ford part details are: FINIS code: 6124270, Part no. 83BB 7548 AA.

 

You may want to search for info on pre-load as well.

Good advice.  Try searching "CRB AND pre-load".  There's loads of stuff in the archives.

There's also an article in the Guides section that I wrote for LF way back in 2004, explaining why pre-load is vital, and how to set it correctly.

JV

[rhauri]

Cheers Sim & John.

I've seen about the pre-load, I'll certainly have a look into correcting that.

I'd already ordered the SKF bearing by the time you posted John. I have read that the SKF bearing requires less pre-load, so likely to last longer..? Don't know how true that is though.

I'll go with the SKF bearing for now seeing as it was dispatched yesterday, appreciate I may have to do the job twice though!

Thanks again - wish me luck!

[rhauri]

One last question, I don't need any other bits do I, other than just a new CRB?

[Mark Durrant]

How many miles since the last clutch change? I would closely inspect both the cover and centre plate before refitting the engine.

[John Vine]

I have read that the SKF bearing requires less pre-load, so likely to last longer..?

IIRC, SKF recommend around 50N -- certainly less than INA's 80-120N.  I don't think the lower figure will have any bearing (ouch) on the life of the CRB.  Even 120N is tiny compared to the force required to disengage the clutch.  All the pre-load does is keep the CRB in constant contact with the diaphragm fingers in the clutch cover.

...I don't need any other bits do I...

Apart from the clutch as already mentioned, it's worth checking the condition of the clutch fork "ears" where the CRB clips in.  Depending on how catastrophic your CRB failure was, it might have been damaged.  (Mine was when my first CRB failed.)

Out of interest, what symptoms of CRB failure did you notice?  Squealing noises?  Rattles?  Poor clutch action?

JV

[Wrightpayne]

I'd check the spigot bearing in the end of the crank which supports the gearbox input shaft. It can be a little blighter to change but if it fails its engine out again! I've changed one and needed the dremmel!

If you replace you'll need a bearing and sleeve - Oily can supply them.

Regards

Ian

[rhauri]

 

Mark - Car is on c32,000 miles so presume its on the original clutch.

JV - "I don't think the lower figure will have any bearing on the life of the CRB." 

My symptom is that the CRB squeals when the clutch is depressed.

Will check the clutch fork ears, thanks for the heads up 

I won't be removing the engine completely, though, I will be going down the route of moving the block 4" forward to swap the CRB over. Clutch operation and performance has been absolutely fine; up until my last drive out where it was squeaking fairly loudly when clutch depressed and operation didn't feel as smooth as it should right at the very end of the drive - so I'm hopeful that a new CRB should be all that is needed.

Coupled with an increase in pre-load as per your article, John, I'm hoping that'll do me until clutch replacement time.

 

[Alan Archer]

The CRB preload article makes for very interesting reading, thanks John, just ordered the 2 springs

Alan 

[John Vine]

My symptom is that the CRB squeals when the clutch is depressed.

Ah yes, the classic indicator of pending CRB failure.

JV

[John Vine]

The CRB preload article makes for very interesting reading, thanks John, just ordered the 2 springs

I'm glad it was useful.  Good luck with the mod.

JV

[rhauri]

Slight development (ish)...

I've not started this job yet, but in attempt to move the car I started it up and once the engine is running I can't actually get it into gear, any gear in fact.

Would this indicate a bigger issue, or just that the CRB has in fact catastrophically failed and possibly in more than one piece?

Thanks!

[Ivaan]

Before starting the engine, put the car in gear and try rolling to and frow with the clutch depressed.

Should let you know if the clutch is disengaging.... or not!
 

[paul richards]

Rhauri

​Could simply be clutch sticking.

I dont think you have a dry sump, but if you do, could be the clutch actuating arm that has failed (quite common).

Alternatively, sometimes spigot bearing in rear of crank can cause a similar problem.

In any event it looks like you'll need to take it apart to investigate.

[rhauri]

Not a bad idea Ivaan, will give that a go out of curiosity.

Thanks Paul - I will proceed as planned and see what I find.

Rhauri

[John Vine]

If it's a sticky clutch, you could try starting the car in gear with the clutch depressed and foot on the brake.  It will either lurch forward and stall, stall without the lurch (as the clutch plate frees), or simply run.

Good luck with your investigations.

JV