Help - warning light in Spain

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

The red warning light is flickering when the car is going over 70. Possibly load related as flickers slightly sooner up hill / later down. Alternator belt replaced week before leaving UK. Could it be a tension adjustment issue?

Still have 440km to do, so am going to continue but keep speed low enough to keep light off. Is that safe? Will check back here at next stop for your input. Thanks

[Jonathan Kay]

Could be.

1. Belt intact?
2. What's the deflection on the longest run of the belt when you press with one finger?
3. All bolts tight and alternator unmoveable?
4. Do you have jump leads already?

Jonathan

 

[elie boone]

Check the electrical connections on the alternator.

[John Vine]

I'm surprised it flickers at higher speeds as the alt charging voltage would be higher rather than lower.  That could indicate that the alt itself is faulty -- a problem perhaps with the voltage regulator circuitry.  But see #2 below.

What model/engine is it?  If it's a K, a common fault is for the bolt that attaches the lower alt support bracket to the engine to come loose, or fall out, or even fracture.  If this has happened, i'd expect a good deal of shrieking from a loose belt (see #1 below).

To add to previous points:

1. Do you get a shrieking sound when you rev the engine?  If so, tighten the belt.
2. Is the thin wire running from the alt secure and undamaged?  (This is the wire that causes the warning light to go out once the alt is spinning.)
3. Does the car crank and start easily?

When the warning light goes out, it means the charging voltage is greater than the battery voltage, and the battery is being charged (a good thing -- and safe!).

JV

[tomwood]

Which red warning light are we talking about here? I've got a red warning light flickering on on my Duratec on the speedo but it's related to the brakes. Think my fluid level might have been a little low in the reservoir so have topped up. If not then I've got a dodgy handbrake sensor or wiring somewhere. I'm convinced there's nothing up with the brakes though as this was happening on circuit a couple of weeks ago.

I only ask as the light coming on was speed dependent in my case and was only showing at speed. If it's not this warning light then please ignore me.

Tom

 

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

Car too hot to start poking things at the mo' (parked in one donkey town (suspect they couldn't afford a horse)) with no shelter or off road parking.

To answer what I can : k series, no noise. Starts, revs, pulls, stops and cruises as normal. Is the red warning light at bottom right of rev counter next to indicator warning.

Thanks for the replies so far!

[Jonathan Kay]

Is the red warning light at bottom right of rev counter next to indicator warning.

Comes on with the ignition and goes off as soon as it fires?

Jonathan

PS: I don't think it's relevant but there is an orphan warning light on some modern 7s.

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

Yes JK, on with with ignition / off when this.

"modern 7": JK I need a definition :) what's does 14 yes old sit on the Caterham modern / ancient scale?

[SM25T]

I suspect belt tension needs increasing now belt has bedded in. Easy enough. You only want a few mm mid span.

[Jonathan Kay]

Same as the traditional doctor's definition of "alcoholic"? Mine's a 1998...

There's been discussion of an unconnected engine warning light on Duratecs (and possibly others) and there's something about moisture detection! (I don't think these are relevant to your problem.)

Jonathan

PS: Don't leave the region without trying the cider.

 

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

JK cidre has already been tested, don't you worry.

[paul richards]

Check tension of belt and report back. Should just about be able to twist through 90 degrees on longest run. If not, get it tightened. 

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

We've had a look and are a little nervous to tackle with limited tools and cramped access (apollo tank and plumbing) . Can I ask is the small bolt head on the bottom slide tension adjuster arm just a restrictor or the tensioner? Not the main bolt - the small bolt head 5-7mm

[SM25T]

That is the tensioner .... But first you should slacken the two big bolts on the arm.

[paul richards]

Yes. Tensioner. I think it is an 8mm spanner. As SM25T says slacken the other bolts then adjust and re-tighten. 

Was the belt slack?

 

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

SM25T & Paul. Belt is lose, can twist 110°ish. May wait till at brothers and see if he has more tools. Thanks all

[paul richards]

Nigel. Hope tightening works, although unusual to have the problem at high revs. Slipping normally occurs at lower revs and when there is load i.e. Lights etc. on. 

Keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't spoil your trip. 

[Dave J]

as per Angus previous issue with the same symptoms - do the simple stuff first and check that the small wire to the alternator is fastened correctly - it works loose on the small spade connector.

[slap_ed]

If the easy checks fail then....

I thinks there's a diode pack (several diodes) in the back of the alternator which convert ac to dc so the battery can be charged with dc current. When one or more of these diodes fail it causes the warning light to glow at a varying brightness which can happens throughout the rev range. May not show at low revs and vice versa. I don't think it's the regulator though, but might be wrong.

Good luck.

[slap_ed]

Also just to add..

As mentioned above by somebody else. The brighter the light the less likely the battery is charging and eventually you will grind to a halt. So if you can stay at a speed where the light doesn't show then you might be ok til you can get it looked at.

Hope this helps.

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

A new problem! I think it is unrelated but will post on this thread just in case...

At motorway speeds the temp gauge is dropping to mid 40's (indicated). Rises when used hard, or at lower speeds. I guess the thermostat has failed / stuck open?

Any danger in running at these temps for prolonged periods of time?

[SM25T]

Maybe failing sensor. Could be thermostat stuck open.

[Jonathan Kay]

(Crossed with Ian's)

Make a radiator mask for the motorway runs, starting at about one third of the area. Fit it so that it's very easy to remove.

Have you already got all of the information such as part number and coolant type to change the thermostat when you have time?

Ditto if you're worried about the sender. And you can think of the switch for the fan as an independent back-up detector for overheating.

Jonathan

[John Vine]

Assuming your stat is at fault and staying open....

You can check this by feeling the top hose and rad when you start from cold.  If they both heat up very quickly, the stat is suspect.

it's not difficult to remove (just fiddly).  Once out, check that it's not jammed open by a foreign body, and then test while heated in a pan of water (thermometer required, obviously),

JV

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

Technical Updates:

Overcooling - this stopped as the air temp fell back to low/mid 20's. Do stats open varying degrees? Could it be that the stat is only sticking when it opens fully to cool the engine when the ambient air temp is too hot to cool the engine, but when air temp is lower it only needs to open a little and does not stick?

Alternator - no change. As engine approaches 4k revs light starts to flicker. As engine speed increases light becomes constant. The garage that replaced the alternator belt before I set off are going to get the chance to look at this as a warranty item whilst they look at :

Diff Oil Leak - the car was serviced before I set off. The garage was also asked to sort the diff seals as the MOT had reported a weeping seal. The garage have replaced the seals in exchange for a hefty bill, only now it's dropping far more oil than it was before they "fixed" it. I am very, VERY unhappy with them at the moment.