Smithy77 Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 While I've got the engine out I'm looking to sort out the oil weeps from my diff and gearbox. It looks like one (or probably both) of my drive shaft seals are leaking from the diff. I plan on replacing both seals with the diff in situ. The gear box is collecting drips of oil on the tail; looks like it is most likely the speedo drive sender, but it could also be the prop seal. Since, from reading the archives, it sound easier to sort the speedo sender with the gearbox removed, and since the engine is out, I will take the box out and so will replace the prop seal to be on the safe side. I'll drain the box before removing and refill with fresh oil once refitted with the engine. Some questions before tackling the work...1) What oil do I need for the box and what quantity? 6 speed box from a 2002 Superlight. Does the 6 speed have a more reliable method of checking level vs the 5 speed, which I hear can have different filler hole locations?2) What should I look at replacing for the speedo sender? I'm pretty sure it is the electrical type3) Anyone know part numbers for the prop shaft and drive shaft seals?4) What oil should I use for topping up the diff (LSD)?Any other tips and points please let me know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Just incase anyone else was wondering about the same questions, I have since been told the following answers....1) Comma SX75W90 GL4 semi-syn (1.9L)2) I think I just need to replace the seal/o-ring. Will see if redline can supply. If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.3) Don't know part numbers, but the oil seals are Ford items and Road & Race can supply.4) Diff oil is EP90 + an additive depending of type of LSD. I have a Ford ZF type LSD. I'm hoping Road & Race can advise specifically when I call them tomorrow.I currently have my rear drive shafts removed ready to extract the old oil seals. Does anyone have any tips for best method of removing them? The best advise I've had so far is to carefully destroy them with a chisel in situ. Any help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Use a small "cold chisel", they are blunt, not a regular sharp chisel. If you angle it inwards to avoid damaging the bore and hammer one edge of the seal inwards it will distort / rotate / collapse until you can get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 You make it sound so easy! Mine is now distorted but it is still well and truly wedged in there. Need a plan B... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Have you looked at the wide range of seal removal tools available?A cold chisel isn't necessarily blunt, by the way. Any chisel used for cutting materials cold is a cold chisel and most of them work best when they're sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 @ScottR400D - I stand corrected on my terminology.The tool I used was something like this. The idea was not so much to cut the seal but to knock one edge inwards causing it to rotate within the housing. Either the opposite edge would move outwards or the seal would distort in place and come loose. So in this case, more of blunt tool for transferring hammer blows into a particular spot was required rather than something that would cut.It worked on both of my seals, in that I got them both out without damaging the bores within the housing - eventually! It was to be honest a right royal PITA and not a job I would look forward to doing again. I did it this way after asking around for advice and getting ideas on how other people managed it. If there is a decent puller tool that would fit and would be capable of removing the seals without scratching the housings I would love to hear tour recommendations, as I'm sure would Pete!The seals on mine were INCREDIBLY tight. Drifting the new seals in took about three hours. I'm really not sure they should be that tight, but when I removed the old ones they were probably similarly tight and it looks like Pete is finding his are similar. Any puller would have to get a pretty good grip on the steel band around inside the seal to stand a chance of pulling it out.Do you know what tools Ford technicians or the reputable transmission rebuilders use for this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm not sure of the arrangement in question so couldn't say what would be the best tool for this but there is quite a wide range of tools available. I've used both the hook sort and slide hammer, which sometimes depends on being able to put a self tapping screw into the seal.There are quite a few videos on line too, showing different methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm going to try and knock up a pulling tool using some metal sheet bent to form a Z-angle, a threaded stud and some sort of clamp/plate to span the bore for it to pull against as you tighten it. It might work.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 It might also scratch ... Be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 By way of an update I'm glad to report that my diff seals are out!! Once I tapped one side of the seal inwards a bit more I was able to get a screwdriver in on the opposite side and lever it out from behind. The first seal took me a few hours over a couple of evenings of cursing to remove, the other side took 5mins!! You live and learn....A couple more updates further to my original questions...After speaking with BGH I have bought all my gearbox and diff seals (drive shaft, gearbox/propshaft, speedo drive and speedo closure) from them. They are not genuine Ford (apparently Ford seals are scarce and expensive) but owing to their reputation will be the best available, and in the case of the gearbox/propshaft seal, made to their own spec to be less prone to leaks. They are also reasonably priced.After also speaking to Road & Race I ended up having conflicting advise on what gearbox oil to use. If you speak to Caterham or BGH they will recommend Comma SX75W90. Speak to R&R and they will only recommend (quite vehemently) Redline MTL 75W80 specifically for a 6 speed Caterham box. A search on the archives for "MTL" brings up many a debate on the topic. Seems to be a balance/trade off between smoothness vs longevity. BGH said they would never go anywhere near any Redline oil of any kind; he spoke of his experience of witnessing a large proportion of a Caterham racing series grid end up with mangled gearboxes and diffs after a series switch to Redline. Without wanting to open up another debate, I opted to play it safe and go for the tried and tested Comma oil.Finally on diff oil, although EP90 is good for open diffs, with an LSD you can either mix it with an additive, or to make things easy you can opt for Comma LS80W90 GL5 which has the slip additives already added, so that's what I've ordered and was recommended by both BGH and R&R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 So I've finished fitting the various seals to the gearbox. I have also fitted the brass top hat from the speedo sensor and will fit the actual sensor once the box is fitted - all as per the assembly guide. What the guide fails to tell you is, how does one stop the brass top hat rotating when you come to screw on the speedo sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 I fit the top hat to the cable (traditional speedo on mine) then fit the assembly into the box once its in the car. The circlip can be fiddly but less so than trying to stop the top hat spinning.RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 That would make more sense - silly assembly guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted August 3, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted August 3, 2016 I stop the top hat spinning by just pushing it with a small screwdriver or a sharp point. No real problem. The attachment is knurled and only finger tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 I'm just about bash in my drive shaft seals into the diff.... is there any common wisdom as to depth to drift them in to? I've read on a past thread 11mm. The seals I removed were 12-13mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now