paul jacobs Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 I've got to the stage of connecting all the electrics and battery up, prior to first starting the engine, problem is, I don't have any LED showing to tell me that the immobilizer is active. I've clicked the plipper a million times with the ignition on and off, but I still can't get recognition fromt the MFU. Out of interest, I have sparks from the plugs, but no fuel pump activation. Does the immobilizer leave the ignition active but cut the fuel pump circuit, and what else does it cut out? All help gratefully received Paul Red 245bhp Vauxhall powered 21-Now sold, back in the fold with my new 1600K Seven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 On my new SV, if I switch on the ignition with the immobiliser still ON, everything functions including the fuel pump. The car will even start and run for about 2 seconds, then it cuts itself off. rgds Chris 1.8K SV 140hp V11CPW Ruby Red with Silver nose and stripe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 there's a thread on BC not too long ago about how to reset the ECU that might help. perhaps the blipper has the battery covered protectively or is flat or is the wrong one 🤔 Steve Metalic Black SV-VHPD click here to see our pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 All plugs / wires connected to ECU under bonnet? Plug connected to immobiliser bit under RHs dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stijn LUYCK 1 Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 Paul, have you checked the "fuel-cut-of-thingy" that activates in case of an accident? Should be on the bulkhead in series with the power to the fuel pump ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 Try disconnecting the battery, re-connerct and then re-teach the immobiliser / plipper. The reset is to press alternately the unlock / lock buttons in turn twice each (total 4 presses). The immob. should hten be active. Press the unlock button once and try to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 Hi All, I think I am in a not too dissimilar position. I was attempting first start-up on my Vx1.6 this weekend. I followed the start-up procedure and all I got was a massive spark on the inside of the offside of the bodywork. Closer inspection revealed the starter motor solenoid activation wire (red and white, ending in a ringed eyelet) was not fitted to the spade connector on the solenoid (!!!). Well, its easy afterwards to say 'it was obvious one was needed' but no mention in the joke book and two completely differing connectors and there you go - or not as is my case. I have checked all fuses and all are still intact and in fact all electricals seem to still work ok, including the fuel pump. I now have no current to the red/white wire on turning the key. What have I buggered ? Where do I find these 'lock/unlock' buttons (I do not have a master switch if its on that) ? When I put the red key in I get in order: a) beeps one led flash b) beeps lots of led flashes c) beeps constant led on - is this normal ? Am I normal ? All help appreciated ... T. Edited by - Cat-7 on 4 Feb 2003 09:49:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted February 4, 2003 Author Share Posted February 4, 2003 Thanks everyone, I have tried all suggestions but still no flashing LED on the dash. I do have sparks at the plugs, but no juice to the fuel pump, but it does work with a direct feed, the injectors do not seem to be clicking when cranking either. This does sound like some kind of immobilizer problem. I seem to remember that a Rover garage can put the ECU, MFU immobilizer unit and the remote "plipper" units onto a computer and set them up to work together. Is this actually the case? At least you have beeps and an LED flashing in some sort of order Cat 7! Red 245bhp Vauxhall powered 21-Now sold, back in the fold with my new 1600K Seven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 you can reset the ecu with this procedure as a last ditch effort before more serious things have to happen: turn ignition on depress throttle fully 7 times (what a nice number ) turn ignition off start car there are those that say 4 will do it, BTW this also resets the fuel mixture Steve Metalic Black SV-VHPD click here to see our pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mole Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 Hi Paul. I know it sounds obvious, but have you checked connections to the immobiliser unit itself ? I believe that this is under the dash somewhere close to the steering column - I know I was told that one of the loose wires down there (pink I think) is the immobiliser aerial. I didn't have this problem but I'd be happy to pop over tomorrow afternoon to have a look if you think two heads would be better than one! SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted February 6, 2003 Author Share Posted February 6, 2003 That sounds like a great idea Steve, I still can't get the thing to power up. Spoke to Tony at Caterham today, and he reckons that all immobiliser units should be optimised with the ECU ;before they work, so this could be the problem. They have the facility to do it at the factory [or at least the no a man who can] so I'll get the offending bits off to them and see if we can't get it all to work. I'll post back results as and when. Red 245bhp Vauxhall powered 21-Now sold, back in the fold with my new 1600K Seven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Thought I'd post an update. Called Caterham today and they said the 'manual' (for the Vx1.6, shurlok immobilizer) was wrong. In the manual it talks about using the red key to get the car to turn over but not fire (to get oil pressure). Caterham said this was not so. They said, use the black key, hear the peep, take key out, start car. It didn't work. I blew a couple of horn fuses (I was trying to jump the Cat off my Merc). I now realise I have absolutely no clue what I am doing. Could someone please fill me in with the basics: 1. Which immobilizer key, red or black ? 2. Does it go in, out , shake it all ... ? I mean how many times and do you leave it in when you turn the key ? 4. What about peeps ? How many and when etc ? 3. Should the horn fuse be uprated to 30amp - I've seen this mentioned on blatchat for Rovers (I think). Going slightly mad here. thanks, Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Thought I'd post an update. Called Caterham today and they said the 'manual' (for the Vx1.6, shurlok immobilizer) was wrong. In the manual it talks about using the red key to get the car to turn over but not fire (to get oil pressure). Caterham said this was not so. They said, use the black key, hear the peep, take key out, start car. It didn't work. I blew a couple of horn fuses (I was trying to jump the Cat off my Merc). I now realise I have absolutely no clue what I am doing. Could someone please fill me in with the basics: 1. Which immobilizer key, red or black ? 2. Does it go in, out , shake it all ... ? I mean how many times and do you leave it in when you turn the key ? 4. What about peeps ? How many and when etc ? 3. Should the horn fuse be uprated to 30amp - I've seen this mentioned on blatchat for Rovers (I think). Going slightly mad here. thanks, Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 My car has a shurlock. This is obviously not an initial starting proceedure but day to day you put the black key in, wait for the bleep & the led to go out, remove black key & start car (Within 20 secs) on the ignition key. I was told (By shureock) that the red key is the master key. It performs exactly the same functions as the black key but can be used to made duplicate black keys from (if you lose yours) whereas the black key cannot be cloned - so to speak. Dunno whether that helps or hinders you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonwelton Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Rover immobiliser is passive arming so plipper will make no difference, the light must come on. Engine will run but just won't rev above tick over if immobiliser is on. Si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Hi All, Thought I'd post an update and thank everyone for their advice. I got a copy of the shurlock immobilizer manual and with that was able to program the black key again. There is a sequence involving 'priming' the system before inserting a black key that is then encoded. If anyone is interested in the manual drop me an email. The black key then goes in, get a beep take it out and turn key. After much phoning Caterham I have established that the red/white starter solenoid wire has burned out somewhere in the loom. I can hotwire the car and I have had it running via a new wire (yipee !!!). The horn doesn't work so I have to face the fact that the whole umbilical cord will need to be cut open and all burned out wiring identified and replaced. Wot a larf eh ? Any advice on where to start appreciated. Thanks, T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil R Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Hi Cat-7, I had similar problems with the red/white wire when I built mine. Can't work it out really but as soon as I'd started it a few times with the temporary wire the red/white one started to work. I can only think it was a problem in the immobiliser that cleared itself Doesn't help much does it? /Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Thanks Phil, but a continuity test on the wire itself shows nowt. I have been assured by Caterham the red/white wire runs from the starter to the ignition switch directly and if that is so it will need to be replaced. However, if in fact it does pass through the immobilizer that would be a different matter. Does anyone know ? I will be investigating myself and report back ! T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil R Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Hi Cat-7, yeah I too asked Caterham if it was a direct run and was told it was. So the result of my continuity check made me think it was a faulty wire. Don't alter the fact that it worked when I gave it one final go before taking it to SVA. I'm not saying you don't have a faulty wire but it seems very similar to me. Like I said, I can't work it out I'm just reporting it as it happened. /Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 One more update ! Eventually, it was established that the solenoid wire does indeed run through the immobiliser - after cutting open the umbilical cord and finding it out for myself. So it appears one of the 4 circuits in the immobiliser was blown. I ran a hotwire from the solenoid to the ignition switch to start it and that was ok. I have agreed with Caterham they will fix it before my SVA. One word of warning - the hotwire carries a huge current so make sure its nice and thick or trust me, a small fire will ensue ! T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Speaking from recent experience then? 😬 I wish mine would start ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat-7 Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Yes indeed, I now have a reliable if not rather ugly method of starting. The immobiliser does still need to be disengaged showing it is working to an extent, but the hotwire is required to kick the starter over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 manual: yes please. you have blatmail. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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