jimmct Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Looking for some advice as since I've had my drivers floor lowered I'm getting caught out and occasionally grounding on the road despite my best attempts to avoid any ridges or bumps. Car is 1997 classic race with the original 13" weller rims running 185/70/r13 at 28psi.I've measured the clearance with drivers weight added and I've got 94mm at the rear of the floor pan and 85mm at the lowest point (directly below steering wheel).no serious damage yet but some for some heavy scoring. Issue occurs when driving enthusiastically along the country roads which aren't in the best of condition in Northamptonshire. No doubt my weight does not help......15 and a bit stone.ThanksJames Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I am guessing you don't have adjustable platforms on your suspension ? Can you retrofit them to the bottom of the springs ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Car has the original suspension set up i.e. spax shocks with non adjustable spring platforms. Car has an Ital live axle. Would fitting adjustable platforms significantly increase the clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 15, 2015 Member Share Posted October 15, 2015 What's the ground clearance under the sump?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNC Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Hello James,I have a 2012 Road sport SV with lowered floors and I grind on speed ramps on the bolts for the seats. I have adjusted the rear springs by 13mm on both sides which has stiffened up the back end it doesn't wallow and feels more responsive. The other thing I have done is removing the nuts from the seats and replacing them with a alloy square bar the same size as the nuts, I drilled the bar and threaded it to fit the bolts from the seats, I also cut the ends of the bar at a steep angle like skids on a sleigh once tightened I ground off the bolts that protruded leaving a flat skid. I still sometimes bump things but the skids take the wear. It's a balance I want to be as close to the road as possible but not doing damage to my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Hi Jonathanclearance under sump is 84mm. I'm always careful around town so speed bumps aren't much of an issue. The problem is the floorpan out on the country roads (sump is ok). At speed when the rear is under compression and the road has excessive undulations is when the floor gets hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Hi Johncar has got bench seats so there are no bolts heads. I'm wanting to upgrade the seats soon so the problem is only going to get worse with the current set up.James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I fitted higher rated (250 lb) front springs to my SV to reduce the risk in big compressions. Helps smooth out the bumps at speed too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 i'd look at some progressive rear springs or helper springs for your current ones, if your budget will run to it then new coilovers with adjustable platform and correct valving too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNC Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 How many miles have you done ? have the rear springs weakened over time, it might be time to change to adjustable suspension to compensate for weight and give a stiffer ride . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Thanks for the feedback. It looks like adjustable suspension is the way forward. Any recommendations as to an economical set-up for a live axle. Nothing too fancy as all my driving is on roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I agree with changing springs if yours are stil the originals, it is surprising how they soften over time.Are you reall inflating to 28psi for road use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Only to help with ground clearance issue other wise it is around 20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Do the tyres wear out the central part of the face at that pressure ? The handling must be horribly skittish ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Handling isn't great but the roads are pretty poor and the live axle doesn't help. If I can get the clearance under the floor increased then I can drop the pressure back down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I would look at Protech, but where ever you go make sure the rears in particulat have rose joints and not metalastic bushes as the lower rear mounts on the LA are the wrong way round! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 16, 2015 Member Share Posted October 16, 2015 I'd ask Simon at Meteor for options.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nillbymouth Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I'm no expert but agree with those who state that the suspension is too soft. I've measured my lowered floor and that is also just over 9cm above the road and the seat bolts are probably only 8cm. I've had problems wih some speed bumps catching the seat bolts when there is only me in the car. Even two up I've never grounded in normal driving and that includes one local road where I'm regularly airborne. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSeven Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I'll second Protech and as stated above rose joints on the bottom end of the rear shocks are the way to go. I fitted a set on my LA car earier this year along with new springs; 250 lb on the front and 125 lb on the back. Its worth getting hold of some corner weight scales (or be a cheapskate like I did with 4 sets of bathroom scales) and doing a bit of research on how to do a DIY corner weight set up - the springs, shocks (and bathroom scales!) completely transformed the handling of my car for less than £600 all in.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmct Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Thanks for all the feedback and advice. Looks like new adjustables all round. Like the look of the Protechs, thanks Rob and Wonders. Would these be preferred over AVOs or Gaz or are the performances similar and it's a matter of aesthetics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSeven Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Not tried AVO or Gaz on a 7 but was recommended Protech by a number of satisifed customers and am delighted with them. You need to specify open and closed lengths and what fittngs are required at either end and tell them they are for a 7 and they will valve them to suit the weight of the car.Bit of a wait for them to be manufactured I seem to remember so best to plan ahead if you need them soon.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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