jackb_ms Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Hello I have been looking for the K-click wiring diagram in the Guides, however I cannot find it.Does someone knows where the diagram is? CheersJack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2015 Member Share Posted May 15, 2015 I'm not sure it's on the new site. Do you have access to Low Flying?Discussion thread following the article.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Hi JKUnfortunately not that old.I cannot find it on the new siteSpend a few hours looking for it but no diagram.I have found some very usefull diagram for the 21 and engine harness for a VVC though Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I've installed it recently on a 1999 EU2 without a master cut-off switch. I could go and look at what I did if that would help. simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I'm sure Andrew (revilla) will be along with it shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheldon Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Just buy a decent starter motor and the click will go away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 All credit to Andrew Revill (revilla), I've uploaded his article to my plopbox:https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ejetbzbsxhyev9/Low%20Flying%20Article.pdf?dl=0I would also agree with Steve above. I didn't have the K-click, amazingly, but the starter did get very lazy when stinking hot after a track session. So I changed it for a newer, lighter and more powerful (and more £££ obviously) one from WOSP. I think Steve has a Powerlite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 15, 2015 Member Share Posted May 15, 2015 Just buy a decent starter motor and the click will go awayThe only starting problems I've ever had were due to duff batteries so I haven't been through this. But from other members' stories of clicks and solutions there seem to be a range of causes including bad batteries, cruddy contacts, recalcitrant relays, smoke shortages and those problems inside starters. These probably interact.So I wouldn't start by replacing the starter: that might not fix the problem, and it might cost a lot more than is needed.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Hi Sim Yes please :) Steve , which one? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I chose to keep the modifiation as simple as possible. I've followed someone elses instructions, but can't remember who.I added a new relay to switch the solenoid. I used the existing relay in the MFRU to switch the new relay. I used a new short fused wire to power the relay and a new short ground on the relay. I used a new wire to connect the new relay to the started.Disconnect the battery.Attach the new relay - I fitted mine in front of the battery.Detach the thin wire from the solenoid on the starter and connect to new relay terminal 86.Connect a new red wire from solenoid to relay terminal 87.Connect a red wire with in-line fuse from the relay terminal 30 to battery +ve terminal along with original cnnections.Connect a black wire from relay terminal 85 to battery -ve terminal along with original connections.Hopefully all done Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason E Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Just to put my version I bypassed the MFRU completely , new cable from starter switch to fused relay that took power and earth straight from battery new cable in heat resistant sheath straight to starter. All original wiring is left intact . one thing I noticed on mine was the the feed to the solenoid was cooked and very brittle . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 That's just about what I did - the original MFRU completely bypassed with new relay direct to starter solenoid.It started to click, so modified as above, and 10 years later, never done it again. Original starter motor and main power cables. Even after numerous long distance motorway trips in Europe, long Alpine climbs etc and stopping for fuel with everything hot. Recently, I had problems with power to my Emerald ECU that I'd connected via an adaptor to the original EU3 ECU plugs - I think that was down to problems in the original, so bypassed it again for that - works fine so far. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheldon Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I have a Powerlite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Just buy a decent starter motor and the click will go awayNot always without causing other issues. I bought my 7 which had a replacement high torque Brise starter fitted, presumably to avoid the K-click, but unless the battery was at 100% capacity the starter would draw excessive currents while cranking and cause the ECU to drop out. The effect was that I could only start it with manual throttle while the ECU re-booted.I now have the K-click wiring mod and standard Magneton starter fitted and (touch wood) have had perfect starting ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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