zetec Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Or how do it measure it?tank is empty & I have 2 cans of fuel reading to fill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 24, 2014 Member Share Posted December 24, 2014 Set the meter to resistance and clip it across the sender. I'd disconnect any other leads. There is a table of values somewhere in the archive, but you should be able to find the range without that. Use the smallest range setting that works.Someone recently suggested 2 L per step.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Thanks JK - I shall prepare the multimeter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaps7 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 If it's any help I took my sender out of the car and took the following resistance values;Full:16; 3/4:45, 1/2:60, 1/4;110, Empty:270.Full and empty were easy to take as it is the limit of travel but intermidiate readings were more difficult as the float moves through an arc so I wouldn't take the values as gospel. Need to add that I appear to continue with duff readings at the fuel gauge and have given up any more investigations for Christmas.Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Awesome response Rick!i too gave up but now have challenged myself over Christmas.i shall reply here if I have luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 If the tank is truely empty (ie you've not just run the car until it stops) then I'd suggest adding some fuel and running the car until it dies. The meter reading at that point will then be your "practical" empty reading, as there is a surprising quantity of fuel in the tank that isn't able to be picked up, and I'm not sure whether the lowest reading of the sender is in that "dead" fuel area, or not.Don't forget to do it on level ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share Posted December 25, 2014 I've did an empty & fuel calibration on the stCk gauge. Cost me £47 in super Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Fuel for the 7 doesn't count as a cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 *laugh*That's very true-! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 26, 2014 Member Share Posted December 26, 2014 If the tank is truely empty (ie you've not just run the car until it stops) then I'd suggest adding some fuel and running the car until it dies. The meter reading at that point will then be your "practical" empty reading, as there is a surprising quantity of fuel in the tank that isn't able to be picked up, and I'm not sure whether the lowest reading of the sender is in that "dead" fuel area, or not.Wise words.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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