2 things - Clutches and prop shaft refurb

[Grubbster]

I am planning to pull the car to bits soon so that I can give it a good clean and check over underneath and replace a few bits while I am at it.

As I'm pulling the engine and gearbox out I'll probably replace the clutch, it's been it quite a while and takes a good pounding. I see on Caterhams website they still offer this as the release bearing for the K series 5/6 speed -http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/89-89-thickbox.jpg

But I'm pretty sure mine is this one which is stated as for the 4 speed -

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/2383-2379-thickbox.jpg

I remember ordering one before and got the first type and never fitted it, it didn't fit the clutch fork (dry sump type) and didn't look as well made so I stuck the old one back in, but maybe I should now get a like for like replacement so I know it will fit or is there any reason why not?

Regarding the prop shaft - there is some play in the UJ's - is this something I can have overhauled or do I have to buy a new one?

Other jobs will include getting the LSD stripped and rebuilt by Phil at R&R, new rear brake pads and discs, AP master brake cylinder, new wing stays, powdercoating wishbones and ARB, HANS adaption, bag seat and a thorough nut and bolt check.

[SM25T]

I got my propshaft overhauled and balanced at a company in Bexleyheath. Several places around that do this sort of stuff. May end up with a better job than buying a new one !

[F355GTS]

Steve

replacing the prop UJ's is relatively straight forward and should be no need ot rebalance, I'm going to be doing mine, parts from Caterham

 

[Mankee]

Careful on the flat-type CRB, Steve. Like yourself, I assumed that the flat 4-speed bearing fits and got myself one. Nope, it won't go over the nose piece of a 5-/6-speeder! There is a flat bearing suitable though, made by AP and various other suppliers. I'll post more information later when I'm back on a proper compoota.

Interested in the prop rebuild, as that's one job is like to do when the diff comes out to be set up properly  think Dave Walker at Emerald uses a company called Doctor Prop or something like that. Recoprop also rings a bell from the old archives.

[Grubbster]

That's interesting Mark, I never thought about doing them myself. Is it held together with circlips or does it require a press?

Thanks for the info Mankee, the type I currently have is the same as Angus at the bottom of this page http://www.mycaterham.com/66828/120916.html but whether it has been modified at all I don't know.

[ben2]

Hi

I have just had my prop done.

I work with someone who builds race cars, his comment was he would only rebuild a propshaft if it was the only way to get the car back in the race that day...otherwise always get it repaired and rebalanced professionally.

I sent mine to Bailey Morris in St Neots (well the guy rebuilding my engine did) to have new UJ's fitted, rebalanced and painted. I think the cost was over £100, but for piece of mind and all that.

Cheers

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SM25T]

This is the company I used http://www.jwtransmissions.co.uk

[Nigel Riches]

If you have the Ford gearbox the lower pictured release bearing should be the one to fit. This, as you say is for a 4 spd box, (cortina, sierra)  but old uncle Henry liked to be able to fit the same part to different cars, so this is the release bearing I use on my Ford type 9. 

The propshaft u/j can be replaced by a home enthusiast, have a trawl through the web to find a "you tube"  video, not too much trouble, just have to know how much violence to use. 

Regards, Nigel. 

 

[F355GTS]

Hi Steve, just circlips

[7 wonders of the world]

Get the prop looked at bu somone who knows,

The OE joints are cheap and very poor quality - I used Proptech at Hartlebury both joints replaced for HD quality ones and balanced and even painted for £50.

You can repalce the joints yourself but why the hell anyone would refit it without balancing I dont know - the pro can be spinning at top side of 8500rpm inches form your thigh with in most chassis' sod all protection in the event of failure.

The prop is balanced from new for a good reason - it therefore needs to be following any repair.

[Mankee]

The release bearing in your lower picture is an HD2483, shown on Caterham Parts to be for 4-speeders. The bearing we need for 5-/6-speeders is an HD2482. As usual, there are loads of cross-reference part numbers. The genuine AP item is about £30-odd from Peter Lloyd Rallying. Rally Design make their own version with part number RD1850 and there are a few others available. Are you changing the whole clutch or just the release bearing?

Not that long ago on the old forum, a chap had the same issue with a new release bearing supplied by Redline that wouldn't fit over the nose piece. I will have a look for it if I can get the search function to work.

[John Vine]

Steve,

Re the CRB, your top pic looks like the SKF CRB that CC introduced as a "solution" to the perceived failure rate of the old INA CRB.  The SKF p/n is, I believe, FRA174C.  One problem is that it doesn't fit the clutch fork as well as the OEM INA item.  (The INA CRB failures were, IMHO, caused by inadequate pre-load, and had nothing to do with the quality of the INA part -- lots in the archives on this.)

Your lower pic looks like an INA CRB.  For a 5/6-speeder, you need p/n F202994 (or HD2482, as Mankee says).  You could try a Ford dealer for this (Finis code 6124270, p/n 83BB7548AA). 

JV

[Grubbster]

Are you changing the whole clutch or just the release bearing?

I'm planning to change the whole clutch, it's been in the car a while, certainly for over 20k miles and it's been worked hard at times. While I've got the engine out I think it's worth doing.

[Mankee]

I'm probably just going to get a three-part clutch kit from Helix when I next change engines. They offer drive plates of varying specs.

[simonpa]

If you haven't already sent it off, I have a standard K-series Prop from an S3 that had only done about 3k when everything came out for a bike conversion.

Cheers - Simon

[Grubbster]

Hi Simon, no I haven't done anything yet, not even started to strip the car. I'll mail you thanks.

[Grubbster]

By way of an update - over the winter I stripped the back end of the car, had the diff refreshed by R and R new A frame, new A frame bush in the dedion and the propshaft checked (it turned out to be fine) then reassembled it all after a good clean and tidy up with hammerite smooth. I never got around to taking the engine and gearbox out but I now need to as I think the CRB is on the way out. 

Helix provide 2 options, 'road organic kit' suitable for 130 lb/ft and 'race paddle kit' suited for 160 lb/ft (so I think this is what I need). The bearing they supply is INA F-202991.

[simonpa]

If you are using the car on the road and haven't tried a paddle kit before, you probably don't want to go that route!

They can be very jerky - and harsh on the driveline.